We have a setup similar to yours. However, we also have a combiner for the
start and windlass batteries (both on the same unit), allowing us to charge
either just the house, or both, as situations warrant.

We're very careful about running the house battery alone for loads. In
addition, both of the start and windlass batteries have circuit breakers on
them, so we can separate them if needed..

The cables to the windlass battery are still somewhat considerable, but the
cables to the windlass are impressive. If we were to rely on some battery
to heft it remotely, the cables would have been huge. I'd also hate to have
a house battery drawn down by the level of amps used in the windlass, but
that's probably because I've had to start the engine and get the anchor up
in cases of lower-than-I'd-like house battery state, and that's the way the
boat was configured when we bought it.

HTH

L8R

Skip

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

I expect to pass this way but once; any good therefore that I can do, or any
kindness that I can show to any fellow creature, let me do it now.
Let me not defer or neglect it, for I shall not pass this way again.

- Etienne Griellet

On Thu, 16 Jan 2014 16:40:03 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

We have a setup similar to yours. However, we also have a combiner for the
start and windlass batteries (both on the same unit), allowing us to charge
either just the house, or both, as situations warrant.

We're very careful about running the house battery alone for loads. In
addition, both of the start and windlass batteries have circuit breakers on
them, so we can separate them if needed..

The cables to the windlass battery are still somewhat considerable, but the
cables to the windlass are impressive. If we were to rely on some battery
to heft it remotely, the cables would have been huge. I'd also hate to have
a house battery drawn down by the level of amps used in the windlass, but
that's probably because I've had to start the engine and get the anchor up
in cases of lower-than-I'd-like house battery state, and that's the way the
boat was configured when we bought it.

HTH

L8R

Skip

Although the bow thruster and anchor windlass need significant
currents when they are used, they are normally used for such short
times that the actual energy (amp-hours) used from the batteries is
almost insignificant.

My anchor windlass (31 ft power boat) is fused at 80 amps - say it
draws 60 amps when raising the anchor. It will typically run 2 - 3
minutes to raise the anchor - at 60 amps, this is 120 - 180
amp-minutes, or only 2 - 3 amp-hours. The bow thruster may draw 200
amps, but is only run for a few seconds at a time - normally well
under a minute when docking or un-docking, so that again is only a
couple of amp-hours - hardly worth worrying about when considering
your daily power useage.


--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI Vancouver BC
peterbb (at) telus.net
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

On Thu, 16 Jan 2014 23:51:15 -0800, Peter Bennett
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jan 2014 16:40:03 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

We have a setup similar to yours. However, we also have a combiner for the
start and windlass batteries (both on the same unit), allowing us to charge
either just the house, or both, as situations warrant.

We're very careful about running the house battery alone for loads. In
addition, both of the start and windlass batteries have circuit breakers on
them, so we can separate them if needed..

The cables to the windlass battery are still somewhat considerable, but the
cables to the windlass are impressive. If we were to rely on some battery
to heft it remotely, the cables would have been huge. I'd also hate to have
a house battery drawn down by the level of amps used in the windlass, but
that's probably because I've had to start the engine and get the anchor up
in cases of lower-than-I'd-like house battery state, and that's the way the
boat was configured when we bought it.

HTH

L8R

Skip

Although the bow thruster and anchor windlass need significant
currents when they are used, they are normally used for such short
times that the actual energy (amp-hours) used from the batteries is
almost insignificant.

My anchor windlass (31 ft power boat) is fused at 80 amps - say it
draws 60 amps when raising the anchor. It will typically run 2 - 3
minutes to raise the anchor - at 60 amps, this is 120 - 180
amp-minutes, or only 2 - 3 amp-hours. The bow thruster may draw 200
amps, but is only run for a few seconds at a time - normally well
under a minute when docking or un-docking, so that again is only a
couple of amp-hours - hardly worth worrying about when considering
your daily power useage.

True. In fact on most cruising boats you can haul the anchor in by
hand too :-) If you really, really have to :-))
--
Cheers,

Bruce in Bangkok

"Peter Bennett" wrote in message
news.com...

Although the bow thruster and anchor windlass need significant
currents when they are used, they are normally used for such short
times that the actual energy (amp-hours) used from the batteries is
almost insignificant.

My anchor windlass (31 ft power boat) is fused at 80 amps - say it
draws 60 amps when raising the anchor. It will typically run 2 - 3
minutes to raise the anchor - at 60 amps, this is 120 - 180
amp-minutes, or only 2 - 3 amp-hours. The bow thruster may draw 200
amps, but is only run for a few seconds at a time - normally well
under a minute when docking or un-docking, so that again is only a
couple of amp-hours - hardly worth worrying about when considering
your daily power useage.


--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI Vancouver BC


I agree about the AH load. My problem is not having dedicated power to that
unit; even if you are absolutely sure that your house bank could handle the
load AND start your engine if needed; sending all those amps a long way
needs monster cable by comparison...

The admiral made me pitch the mikey based on the amps it would use; it's the
same argument, other than that it's not going to affect starting the engine
(at least if we've remembered to go to "house" and not "both"!), but it's
gone, none the less.

L8R

Skip, in Vero

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

I expect to pass this way but once; any good therefore that I can do, or any
kindness that I can show to any fellow creature, let me do it now.
Let me not defer or neglect it, for I shall not pass this way again.

- Etienne Griellet

"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...

trim

I agree about the AH load. My problem is not having dedicated power to that
unit; even if you are absolutely sure that your house bank could handle the
load AND start your engine if needed; sending all those amps a long way
needs monster cable by comparison...

Your problem is needing as much or more amperage than your
average two-bedroom home.

--
Sir Gregory

On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 17:10:06 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

"Peter Bennett" wrote in message
rnews.com...

Although the bow thruster and anchor windlass need significant
currents when they are used, they are normally used for such short
times that the actual energy (amp-hours) used from the batteries is
almost insignificant.

My anchor windlass (31 ft power boat) is fused at 80 amps - say it
draws 60 amps when raising the anchor. It will typically run 2 - 3
minutes to raise the anchor - at 60 amps, this is 120 - 180
amp-minutes, or only 2 - 3 amp-hours. The bow thruster may draw 200
amps, but is only run for a few seconds at a time - normally well
under a minute when docking or un-docking, so that again is only a
couple of amp-hours - hardly worth worrying about when considering
your daily power useage.


--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI Vancouver BC


I agree about the AH load. My problem is not having dedicated power to that
unit; even if you are absolutely sure that your house bank could handle the
load AND start your engine if needed; sending all those amps a long way
needs monster cable by comparison...

The admiral made me pitch the mikey based on the amps it would use; it's the
same argument, other than that it's not going to affect starting the engine
(at least if we've remembered to go to "house" and not "both"!), but it's
gone, none the less.

L8R

Skip, in Vero

Well, some of us start the engine first and than haul the anchor :-)

But, what is a mikey?
--
Cheers,

Bruce in Bangkok

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
...


Well, some of us start the engine first and than haul the anchor :-)

But, what is a mikey?
--
Cheers,

Bruce in Bangkok

Microwave :{))

L8R

Skip

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

I expect to pass this way but once; any good therefore that I can do, or any
kindness that I can show to any fellow creature, let me do it now.
Let me not defer or neglect it, for I shall not pass this way again.

- Etienne Griellet

"Peter Bennett" wrote:

Although the bow thruster and anchor windlass need significant
currents when they are used, they are normally used for such short
times that the actual energy (amp-hours) used from the batteries is
almost insignificant.

My anchor windlass (31 ft power boat) is fused at 80 amps - say it
draws 60 amps when raising the anchor. It will typically run 2 - 3
minutes to raise the anchor - at 60 amps, this is 120 - 180
amp-minutes, or only 2 - 3 amp-hours. The bow thruster may draw 200
amps, but is only run for a few seconds at a time - normally well
under a minute when docking or un-docking, so that again is only a
couple of amp-hours - hardly worth worrying about when considering
your daily power useage.
-------------------------------------------------------------
You have lemons, make lemonade.

Locate your dedicated windlass battery in the bow as close as possible
so the large load cables will be relatively short.

Disconnect the windlass battery from ALL other electrical devices on
the boat so that it is isolated.

Fit the windlass with a dedicated 10W solar panel complete with
regulator.

You will maintain a floating charge on the windlass battery except at
night.

The same concept can also be applied to the starting battery.

Throw a pair of jumper cables in a locker for use under emergency
conditions such as total windlass or starter battery failure.

Have fun.

Lew