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On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 11:34:02 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

What kinds of places would use Mylar patternmaking material where I might
obtain some scrap (I only need ~4" square)?


===

Sailmakers will definitely have some, possibly canvas shops. You can
usually buy individual sheets at art supply stores. It's also
possible that you could use a small piece of Strataglass or something
similar. Canvas shops will definitely have that.

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"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 11:34:02 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

What kinds of places would use Mylar patternmaking material where I might
obtain some scrap (I only need ~4" square)?


===

Sailmakers will definitely have some, possibly canvas shops. You can
usually buy individual sheets at art supply stores. It's also
possible that you could use a small piece of Strataglass or something
similar. Canvas shops will definitely have that.


Hi, Wayne, and thanks for that.

Strataglass I can come by, and it's possible that my canvas shop has some
mylar, if that's common - but I'd inferred from what you'd said that it
would be harder/stiffer than that. From our windows, it seems to me that it
would not make a very straight (straighter than saran wrap, of course!)
surface, as flexible as it is, and what I see canvas folks using for
patternmaking is VERY floppy, not very heavy stuff..

Inferred is that the stuff you're talking about is pretty flexible?

L8R

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On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 13:55:48 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Strataglass I can come by, and it's possible that my canvas shop has some
mylar, if that's common - but I'd inferred from what you'd said that it
would be harder/stiffer than that. From our windows, it seems to me that it
would not make a very straight (straighter than saran wrap, of course!)
surface, as flexible as it is, and what I see canvas folks using for
patternmaking is VERY floppy, not very heavy stuff..

Inferred is that the stuff you're talking about is pretty flexible?


===

Mylar comes in different thicknesses. The kind I'm thinking of is
probably comparable to crispy new (and relatively heavy) Strataglass.
It needs to be heavy enough that it is relatively self fairing as you
wrap it around the shaft. You can wrap multiple layers of course for
extra body.

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On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 23:01:32 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

Mylar comes in different thicknesses. The kind I'm thinking of is
probably comparable to crispy new (and relatively heavy) Strataglass.
It needs to be heavy enough that it is relatively self fairing as you
wrap it around the shaft. You can wrap multiple layers of course for
extra body.


Thinking about it, thick is not good unless it's cut to perfectly butt
the edges, which would be difficult. Otherwise, the epoxy will make a
shaft increasing in diameter to a raised "cliff-face" where the mylar
wraps over itself. The thicker the material, the longer the incline
portion.

Wish I could draw a picture, but let's say the wrap is 1/4" thick (I
know, that's ridiculous, but..). Wrap it around a shaft and look at
the end. You'll see a curving right triangle with the base 1/4".

Rick


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Default Round and round we go, or, "sand in your eyes"

On Wed, 25 Apr 2012 11:34:02 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote in part:

Has anyone had experience in out-of-round shafts to say whether the standard
packing will do its job? If I were to do a lot of shoeshining, I think I
could attack the flats/ridges, but probably not get it perfectly round no
matter how I danced around the circumference to avoid irregularity...


This part I can address. Unfortunately the answer is no, it will not
do the job.

As the high spots go by, they will compress the flax, or move it out
of the way if you will. The flax will not "bounce back" as the low
spots go by, leaving a gap.

Thick of a rubber ball and a ball of packing material. Hit the rubber
ball with a hammer and it compresses, than resumes its original shape
/ Hit the ball of flax with a hammer and you have a disk with rounded
edges. Remember the "trick" of fitting too thick flax by rolling a
pipe on it to flatten?

Rick
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