|
Shifting sands
Hi, Wilbur,
Snippage of all but the refrigeration bits... No compression, then. It might mean a clog but it probably means a leak with low or no pressure. Hope that that brass nut just vibrated loose and after a tightening it will hold pressure. Yah... I'm waiting for a response from the guys who helped me design it as I was buying it from them. Not that it's in any way unstandard - just that they're up to speed on my installation and situation, and I'd have to start over with Veco, their supplier/US distributor for Frigoboat. Further, it's a quick-connect; the o-ring does the sealing, not the pressure of the nut against the other (technically, it's not a nut, but a hex end on a male connector), so I don't want to mess with it until I get something from the horse's mouth. However, on the yellow line (I'd have to see if that's inbound or outbound, cuz I don't remember), under the silver connector, the brass nut and a very slight portion of the tube were wet. Thin enough not to be oil, but thick enough to possibly be. So, you may be right about the freon (oops - R134A) situation. I have a set of gauges, but need to get the adapter which will allow me to put the can on the schrader valve cap before I start messing around in it. I got mine from NAPA - they had it in stock. But, to install it involved removing the Schrader valve in the original so the new one could be screwed on piggyback as it has it's own Schrader valve. An excellent time to add the adapter is when the system is low on or out of refrigerant because you will lose it anyway when you remove the original Schrader valve. You will also need a schrader valve tool. As it happens, among the thousands of parts and tools aboard, I have one of those, leftover from my bicycle-working days. However, I THINK there's a proper adapter to allow my can to attach to the gauge set, which IS schrader-compatible. I'm a bit surprised, as it's a recent purchase, that it didn't come with such an adapter but, (fading) memory has it that I had to buy the hose set separately. I've not yet dug out the set; perhaps the end (but my memory has it that it doesn't) of the supply already is set up to screw a 134a can on, and puncture it. However, what you're saying sounds like the suction side schrader would have a nipple-type fitting, and you'd connect an automotive setup to it for gas installation? Thanks for the comments. We keep discovering new projects - we may yet make 6 months in the yard! L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog The Society for the Preservation of Tithesis commends your ebriated and scrutible use of delible and defatigable, which are gainly, sipid and couth. We are gruntled and consolate that you have the ertia and eptitude to choose such putably pensible tithesis, which we parage. Stamp out Sesquipedalianism |
Shifting sands
"Flying Pig" wrote in message
... Hi, Wilbur, Snippage of all but the refrigeration bits... No compression, then. It might mean a clog but it probably means a leak with low or no pressure. Hope that that brass nut just vibrated loose and after a tightening it will hold pressure. Yah... I'm waiting for a response from the guys who helped me design it as I was buying it from them. Not that it's in any way unstandard - just that they're up to speed on my installation and situation, and I'd have to start over with Veco, their supplier/US distributor for Frigoboat. Further, it's a quick-connect; the o-ring does the sealing, not the pressure of the nut against the other (technically, it's not a nut, but a hex end on a male connector), so I don't want to mess with it until I get something from the horse's mouth. However, on the yellow line (I'd have to see if that's inbound or outbound, cuz I don't remember), under the silver connector, the brass nut and a very slight portion of the tube were wet. Thin enough not to be oil, but thick enough to possibly be. So, you may be right about the freon (oops - R134A) situation. I have a set of gauges, but need to get the adapter which will allow me to put the can on the schrader valve cap before I start messing around in it. I got mine from NAPA - they had it in stock. But, to install it involved removing the Schrader valve in the original so the new one could be screwed on piggyback as it has it's own Schrader valve. An excellent time to add the adapter is when the system is low on or out of refrigerant because you will lose it anyway when you remove the original Schrader valve. You will also need a schrader valve tool. As it happens, among the thousands of parts and tools aboard, I have one of those, leftover from my bicycle-working days. However, I THINK there's a proper adapter to allow my can to attach to the gauge set, which IS schrader-compatible. I'm a bit surprised, as it's a recent purchase, that it didn't come with such an adapter but, (fading) memory has it that I had to buy the hose set separately. I've not yet dug out the set; perhaps the end (but my memory has it that it doesn't) of the supply already is set up to screw a 134a can on, and puncture it. However, what you're saying sounds like the suction side schrader would have a nipple-type fitting, and you'd connect an automotive setup to it for gas installation? http://www.badongo.com/pic/13460377 |
Shifting sands
"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
news.com... http://www.badongo.com/pic/13460377 Hi, and thanks for the link. That appears to be a 134A on a refrigeration line. I need something to get the gas out of the can and into the feed line on the gauge set, which has double-ended schrader-female lines... L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
Shifting sands
"Flying Pig" wrote in message
... "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message news.com... http://www.badongo.com/pic/13460377 Hi, and thanks for the link. That appears to be a 134A on a refrigeration line. I need something to get the gas out of the can and into the feed line on the gauge set, which has double-ended schrader-female lines... I just use one of these cans of r134 with built in adapter and gauge. http://www.walmart.com/ip/EZ-Chill-M...Gauge/16930284 |
Shifting sands
" Sir Gregory Hall, Esq." wrote in message
... "Flying Pig" wrote in message ... "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message news.com... http://www.badongo.com/pic/13460377 Hi, and thanks for the link. That appears to be a 134A on a refrigeration line. I need something to get the gas out of the can and into the feed line on the gauge set, which has double-ended schrader-female lines... I just use one of these cans of r134 with built in adapter and gauge. http://www.walmart.com/ip/EZ-Chill-M...Gauge/16930284 That's the ticket, Gregory. But, I found a gauge setup that screws onto a regular sized can of R134a. It's reusable and requires no recycling deposit. A 12 oz can of R134a has gone way up in price. It's around 15-20 bucks for a 12 oz can. Wilbur Hubbard |
Shifting sands
On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:24:57 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote: That appears to be a 134A on a refrigeration line. I need something to get the gas out of the can and into the feed line on the gauge set, which has double-ended schrader-female lines... Do a Google search on "r134a can tap". You can buy them anywhere. |
Shifting sands
On 7/29/2011 5:39 AM, Flying Pig wrote:
Hi, Bruce, and other readers worldwide (I wonder how many there actually are besides the anonymous knee-jerk Neal-bashers, "Wilbur", Cavelamb, you and a couple of others - even "Bob" hasn't fired a shot in a while, and Roger's off cruising - a quickie "here I am" response would shed some light on the question...), I'm amazed at what you are saying. "Most Stainless Guys" use a 4 inch angle grinder with a selection of "flap" wheels in various grits and then a series of felt buffing wheels with at least two abrasives (rouge being the coarest). The real serious people use dedicated hand held polishers. 12 ft of rail is hardly a day's work :-) I have done some flap-wheel prep on mill-finish work, and that particular set of SS (became the brackets to our stern platform) STILL has the scratches. Then you were either: (1) Using the wrong technique, or (2) using the wrong wheels. I use flap wheels on a 6 inch bench grinder as a first step in a polishing program. I got this idea from the local chrome plating shop. Doing what I had on a bench grinder (other than the cloth steps, which, indeed, is what he used for the final brilliant level, albeit with a 10" post-mounted one, open, allowing more access) and flap wheels (wait! - are you speaking of radial flaps, or horizontal flaps? I've never seen radial flaps for a grinder) would have been very challenging. Otherwise, the sequence of what I was doing is as you describe - 80/120/220/320/400 grit with an air 6" DA, then (the guy who's doing the welding was kind enough to let me do the polishing to that point) the shop's 10" wheel and rouge/finer takes over from there. Just how bad is your stainless? I would use 80 grit as a first step from rough metal, or as a fine grinding wheel, for example to radius a corner weld. The stuff was mill finish - an even gray (if you discount the dings and the relatively straight lines in some cases). I have lots of pix of the process, but have not yet processed them or put them up on my gallery, but that WILL happen, under a "new material" section of the anchor system repair in the 2011 refit gallery. The stuff on the boat wasn't bad at all - but it wasn't very accessible, making polishing (well, still sanding, not yet to the cloth stage) a bit challenging. I think I'm at the 220 stage there, but as I've been busy doing other things at the moment, don't remember what grade is still stuck to my Makita :{)) Despite what you say, avoiding flats and dishes on a round item, particularly one without a large radius, is hard enough with a wide wheel, let alone a small one. The stuff I'd done with flap wheel was flat, MUCH easier to get it all - but it still left scratches after some very aggressive polishing after the flapwheels. Here, I'm referring to 4.5" disks with layered sanding surfaces. If I'd had (never seen them, other than for drill-mount...) radial flaps, it probably would have made a difference... "Teak" is supposed to be one species of tropical hardwood but it seems to vary a rather large amount in both density and color from place to place. But as a general statement it is not either a very hard or heavy wood - it is actually a species of tropical birch, at least not in comparison to other tropical hardwoods. You can indent teak with your thumbnail, for example. If you have been around it you can even identify it by smell. Indeed. When I'm scavenging, I cut a little with my knife and give it a sniff before I take it. But for boat use it's major strong point is that it is a very oily wood and lasts well if exposed, as in a deck, nor do bugs eat it. For interior trim it has no particular virtue - unless you have termites on board :-) :{)) None yet! But it sure is pretty when it's varnished! L8R Skip, on to trying to figure out why my fishfinder will power up, but not again unless I remove the power lead after shutting it down, and tackling the refrigeration Here I am. Still reading Skip! Stephen |
Shifting sands
On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:39:48 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote: Hi, Bruce, and other readers worldwide (I wonder how many there actually are besides the anonymous knee-jerk Neal-bashers, "Wilbur", Cavelamb, you and a couple of others - even "Bob" hasn't fired a shot in a while, and Roger's off cruising - a quickie "here I am" response would shed some light on the question...), I'm amazed at what you are saying. "Most Stainless Guys" use a 4 inch angle grinder with a selection of "flap" wheels in various grits and then a series of felt buffing wheels with at least two abrasives (rouge being the coarest). The real serious people use dedicated hand held polishers. 12 ft of rail is hardly a day's work :-) I have done some flap-wheel prep on mill-finish work, and that particular set of SS (became the brackets to our stern platform) STILL has the scratches. Then you were either: (1) Using the wrong technique, or (2) using the wrong wheels. I use flap wheels on a 6 inch bench grinder as a first step in a polishing program. I got this idea from the local chrome plating shop. Doing what I had on a bench grinder (other than the cloth steps, which, indeed, is what he used for the final brilliant level, albeit with a 10" post-mounted one, open, allowing more access) and flap wheels (wait! - are you speaking of radial flaps, or horizontal flaps? I've never seen radial flaps for a grinder) would have been very challenging. I probably wasn't making myself clear (I frequently don't :-) I was pointing out that I used a "flap wheel" as a first step in polishing stainless - or other metals, in response to your post that flap wheel work leaves scratches. Otherwise, the sequence of what I was doing is as you describe - 80/120/220/320/400 grit with an air 6" DA, then (the guy who's doing the welding was kind enough to let me do the polishing to that point) the shop's 10" wheel and rouge/finer takes over from there. Just how bad is your stainless? I would use 80 grit as a first step from rough metal, or as a fine grinding wheel, for example to radius a corner weld. The stuff was mill finish - an even gray (if you discount the dings and the relatively straight lines in some cases). I have lots of pix of the process, but have not yet processed them or put them up on my gallery, but that WILL happen, under a "new material" section of the anchor system repair in the 2011 refit gallery. I'm not sure what you are referring to here. On one hand you talk about what appears to be stainless tubing - rails, arches, etc., which I would have assumed would have been built of polished stainless tubing and only the joins needing polishing. On the other hand you talk about "mill finish" which I would assume would be a reference to something manufactured from flat rolled plate..... although I've never seen anything intended for a boat that wasn't a polished finish. The stuff on the boat wasn't bad at all - but it wasn't very accessible, making polishing (well, still sanding, not yet to the cloth stage) a bit challenging. I think I'm at the 220 stage there, but as I've been busy doing other things at the moment, don't remember what grade is still stuck to my Makita :{)) Despite what you say, avoiding flats and dishes on a round item, particularly one without a large radius, is hard enough with a wide wheel, let alone a small one. The stuff I'd done with flap wheel was flat, MUCH easier to get it all - but it still left scratches after some very aggressive polishing after the flapwheels. Here, I'm referring to 4.5" disks with layered sanding surfaces. If I'd had (never seen them, other than for drill-mount...) radial flaps, it probably would have made a difference... Yes, that is a common type of "flap disk" and depending on how many layers there and how closely they are inter-leaved they have significant differences in stiffness and thus gouge making ability. there are also some that are made with strips of abrasive cloth mounted at a 90 degree to the shaft of the mounting hole that are much softer and less likely to make "strange marks". "Teak" is supposed to be one species of tropical hardwood but it seems to vary a rather large amount in both density and color from place to place. But as a general statement it is not either a very hard or heavy wood - it is actually a species of tropical birch, at least not in comparison to other tropical hardwoods. You can indent teak with your thumbnail, for example. If you have been around it you can even identify it by smell. Indeed. When I'm scavenging, I cut a little with my knife and give it a sniff before I take it. But for boat use it's major strong point is that it is a very oily wood and lasts well if exposed, as in a deck, nor do bugs eat it. For interior trim it has no particular virtue - unless you have termites on board :-) :{)) None yet! But it sure is pretty when it's varnished! L8R Skip, on to trying to figure out why my fishfinder will power up, but not again unless I remove the power lead after shutting it down, and tackling the refrigeration Cheers, Bruce |
Shifting sands
"Wayne B" wrote in message
... On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:24:57 -0400, "Flying Pig" wrote: That appears to be a 134A on a refrigeration line. I need something to get the gas out of the can and into the feed line on the gauge set, which has double-ended schrader-female lines... Do a Google search on "r134a can tap". You can buy them anywhere. Can taps are easy. Making them go on a gauge set, not so much :{)) L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain |
Shifting sands
On Mon, 1 Aug 2011 15:28:04 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote: "Wayne B" wrote in message .. . On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:24:57 -0400, "Flying Pig" wrote: That appears to be a 134A on a refrigeration line. I need something to get the gas out of the can and into the feed line on the gauge set, which has double-ended schrader-female lines... Do a Google search on "r134a can tap". You can buy them anywhere. Can taps are easy. Making them go on a gauge set, not so much :{)) Standard gauge set connectors attach to a standard can tap. I use tapped 11 ounce cans of 134A often enough. It's when you start buying those "self-contained" recharge kits where you run into connector incompatibility. Sounds like you don't have a standard gauge set if you can't get the can side connected. But double-female is standard for the feed. The gauge end and the can tap are both male. BTW, you can often find R134A for 8 bucks a can at stores like Big Lots, not the 15-18 bucks at auto stores. They often go fast though. --Vic |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:11 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com