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#1
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I've been pleasantly surprised to see that our keel cooler keeps our
Frigoboat system at their design temps, 8 and 34 in freezer and frig, respectively, despite it being not only out in the air, but under the drape (leading to higher temps) around the boat during our bottom sanding. Needless to say, it's more efficient in the water, but, hooked up to shore power, power/amps aren't an issue, and we're thrilled with the ice cubes and the icy drinks, along with entirely normal food preservation temps. L8R Skip, back to work -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing, messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 14:15:49 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote: I've been pleasantly surprised to see that our keel cooler keeps our Frigoboat system at their design temps, 8 and 34 in freezer and frig, respectively, despite it being not only out in the air, but under the drape (leading to higher temps) around the boat during our bottom sanding. Does the Frigoboat system pass refrigerant through the keel cooler or cooling water? Does it use a Danfoss BD50F condensing unit/compressor? |
#3
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"Gogarty" wrote in message
... In article , says... Does the Frigoboat system pass refrigerant through the keel cooler or cooling water? Does it use a Danfoss BD50F condensing unit/compressor? The refrigerant passes through the keel cooler, which is a bronze block about 6x3 inches and is the condensor. Hot liquid in, cool liqud out.The liquid then evaporates on exit from the capillary tube into the evaporator.. The compressor is a Danfoss. It does one hell of a job. However, I have been having problems with blockage of the capillary tube. The only solution may be a new evaporator. My evap is Stainless clad (only the freezer side - the wall side is still bare aluminum (well, painted, but not clad). I got that because I wanted a faster defrost - and I have a very workable system involving a heat gun and a spatula. Replacing the evap in our system would be nearly impossible - it would require removing the top of the reefer/freezer, the countertop being that impediment to access, as the evap is larger than the door to the freezer (I built the box from the outside in, putting the top insulation on after the installation of the evap). It covers three sides, the only part not involved is the partition with the spillover fan in it. I wanted never to repeat any of that construction process :{)) and thus the SS plate. Otherwise, Gogarty's description is exactly what we have. L8R Skip, trucking through the list - the first of three pages is all but crossed out, now, but I'm STILL waiting for the welder for the bow rollers and cage... -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing, messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 16:49:39 -0400, Gogarty
wrote: However, I have been having problems with blockage of the capillary tube. The only solution may be a new evaporator. If the blockage is coming from frozen moisture you may be able to cure it by leaving a vacuum pump on the system for 6 to 8 hours. I just had to do that with a new Adler-Barbour system and it seems to be OK now. The symptoms were that it would start out cooling just fine on startup and then slowly degrade over 24 hours. |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Wayne B" wrote in message
... On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 16:49:39 -0400, Gogarty wrote: However, I have been having problems with blockage of the capillary tube. The only solution may be a new evaporator. If the blockage is coming from frozen moisture you may be able to cure it by leaving a vacuum pump on the system for 6 to 8 hours. I just had to do that with a new Adler-Barbour system and it seems to be OK now. The symptoms were that it would start out cooling just fine on startup and then slowly degrade over 24 hours. Or, alternately, purge the system with dry nitrogen, then vacuum pump. http://www.air-conditioner-selection...n-skilled.html Wilbur Hubbard |
#6
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On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:58:42 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote: Or, alternately, purge the system with dry nitrogen, then vacuum pump. http://www.air-conditioner-selection...n-skilled.html That web site sounds like it was written by a three year old ESL (English as a Second Language) student. Some of the advice is OK but a much better source is Nigel Calder's book: http://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Pleasureboats-Installation-Maintenance-Repair/dp/0071579982 |
#7
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"WaIIy" wrote in message
... On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:58:42 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: "Wayne B" wrote in message . .. On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 16:49:39 -0400, Gogarty wrote: However, I have been having problems with blockage of the capillary tube. The only solution may be a new evaporator. If the blockage is coming from frozen moisture you may be able to cure it by leaving a vacuum pump on the system for 6 to 8 hours. I just had to do that with a new Adler-Barbour system and it seems to be OK now. The symptoms were that it would start out cooling just fine on startup and then slowly degrade over 24 hours. Or, alternately, purge the system with dry nitrogen, then vacuum pump. http://www.air-conditioner-selection...n-skilled.html Wilbur Hubbard Didn't you fix yours with duct tape or something ? Electrical tape - and it's still working great. There was a tiny pinhole leak in the tubing behind the evaporator where the copper joined with the aluminum. Apparently it was like that from the factory as when I installed it, it didn't work due to being low on refrigerant. I had it warranteed and the service guy came out and recharged it with his gauges, leak detector etc. He put the correct pressure into it and it lasted about six months and then it stopped cooling again. I bought my own pressure gauge and an adapter from NAPA so I could charge it with those little automobile refrigerant cans. But, it kept leaking down. Finally, the leak got big enough so I could hear a hissing in the ice box when the compressor was running. Rather than remover the evaporator and have the leak soldered, I just wrapped it thick with quality electrical tape and it's now been about a year and it still cools great. Few sailors are as ingenious (and frugal) as I am. Wilbur Hubbard |
#8
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On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 18:24:36 -0400, Wayne B
wrote: On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:58:42 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: Or, alternately, purge the system with dry nitrogen, then vacuum pump. http://www.air-conditioner-selection...n-skilled.html That web site sounds like it was written by a three year old ESL (English as a Second Language) student. Some of the advice is OK but a much better source is Nigel Calder's book: http://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Pleasureboats-Installation-Maintenance-Repair/dp/0071579982 Nigel is a bit technical for Willie, don't you think. :-? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
#9
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On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:58:42 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote: "Wayne B" wrote in message .. . On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 16:49:39 -0400, Gogarty wrote: However, I have been having problems with blockage of the capillary tube. The only solution may be a new evaporator. If the blockage is coming from frozen moisture you may be able to cure it by leaving a vacuum pump on the system for 6 to 8 hours. I just had to do that with a new Adler-Barbour system and it seems to be OK now. The symptoms were that it would start out cooling just fine on startup and then slowly degrade over 24 hours. Or, alternately, purge the system with dry nitrogen, then vacuum pump. http://www.air-conditioner-selection...n-skilled.html Wilbur Hubbard Why bother with the nitrogen and additional cost. Just hook up the vacuum pump and turn it on. Go home, have a beer, eat supper and go to bed. when you get back to work tomorrow the system will be dehydrated and all you have to do is load the gas. The trade has been doing this for Yonks (as out British cousins have it), successfully. Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
#10
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"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
... On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:58:42 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote: "Wayne B" wrote in message . .. On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 16:49:39 -0400, Gogarty wrote: However, I have been having problems with blockage of the capillary tube. The only solution may be a new evaporator. If the blockage is coming from frozen moisture you may be able to cure it by leaving a vacuum pump on the system for 6 to 8 hours. I just had to do that with a new Adler-Barbour system and it seems to be OK now. The symptoms were that it would start out cooling just fine on startup and then slowly degrade over 24 hours. Or, alternately, purge the system with dry nitrogen, then vacuum pump. http://www.air-conditioner-selection...n-skilled.html Wilbur Hubbard Why bother with the nitrogen and additional cost. Just hook up the vacuum pump and turn it on. Go home, have a beer, eat supper and go to bed. when you get back to work tomorrow the system will be dehydrated and all you have to do is load the gas. The trade has been doing this for Yonks (as out British cousins have it), successfully. An ignorant bit of advice, as usual, Bruce. What if the system has a small leak. Then all the vacuum pump will accomplish is to suck humid air through the system. If you're going to use a vacuum pump you can't go home and have a beer and ignore the readings. If it won't hold a hard vacuum then you got problems. Using dry nitrogen to pressurize the system before vacuuming it out absorbs any moisture that might have gotten into the works. Try reading the article. Oh, that's right, you are functionally illiterate. Never mind! Wilbur Hubbard Wilbur Hubbard |
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