"Spotless stainless steel" reviews?


Any direct or first-hand friends' (you saw it personally) experience with
"Spotless Stainless Steel" (http://www.spotlessstainless.com/) here?

Wrestling with passivation issues and rust removal-and-protection for our
on-board stainless, we examined all the usual options; citric acid (the
active component here) seems to be the most envrionmentally friendly, least
dangerous, and perhaps the most effective.

Phosporic acid, recommended by a friend who'd had all his new stainless work
done where that was the pickler, seems to only take off surface rust, and
actually promotes rust in the end on stainless; worse, it attacks chromium,
not a good thing for making stainless stay bright. Worse still, it's nasty
for the marine environment, making phospates. It's actually usually used in
paint prep for non-stainless steel applications.

Nitric acid, while effective, is very user-unfriendly and not so great to
the environment.

So, if it actually works as the company-sponsored reviews state, it looks
like it would be good for us to use on, in particular, the bow roller welds
mentioned in the St. Augustine log, as they look perfectly awful.

L8R

Skip

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
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"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand. You seek problems because you need their gifts."

(Richard Bach, in Illusions - The Reluctant Messiah)

"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 6 May 2010 22:09:34 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

"Spotless stainless steel" reviews?


Any direct or first-hand friends' (you saw it personally) experience with
"Spotless Stainless Steel" (http://www.spotlessstainless.com/) here?

Wrestling with passivation issues and rust removal-and-protection for our
on-board stainless, we examined all the usual options; citric acid (the
active component here) seems to be the most envrionmentally friendly,
least
dangerous, and perhaps the most effective.

Phosporic acid, recommended by a friend who'd had all his new stainless
work
done where that was the pickler, seems to only take off surface rust, and
actually promotes rust in the end on stainless; worse, it attacks
chromium,
not a good thing for making stainless stay bright. Worse still, it's
nasty
for the marine environment, making phospates. It's actually usually used
in
paint prep for non-stainless steel applications.

Nitric acid, while effective, is very user-unfriendly and not so great to
the environment.

So, if it actually works as the company-sponsored reviews state, it looks
like it would be good for us to use on, in particular, the bow roller
welds
mentioned in the St. Augustine log, as they look perfectly awful.

L8R

Skip

The pictures look pretty impressive -

http://blog.dankim.com/2010/04/13/spotless-stainless/



Interesting stuff. I'd imagine you need to protect the fiberglass from it.
In one of the pictures on the website, it looks like it foams a bit, which
might keep it from running.

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
easolutions...


Interesting stuff. I'd imagine you need to protect the fiberglass from it.
In one of the pictures on the website, it looks like it foams a bit, which
might keep it from running.


It's a gel...



--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand. You seek problems because you need their gifts."

(Richard Bach, in Illusions - The Reluctant Messiah)

On May 6, 6:09*pm, "Flying Pig" wrote:

Wrestling with passivation issues and rust removal-and-protection for our
on-board stainless,



skip please define or describ you wrestling match. is it just surface
rust on plate , on welds or fasteners?

botom line you dont have 316L it mostlikley 304 or other higher Fe
aloy. in other words youre putting sheep ass **** on your boat.

have you fond screw heads laying around your deck

if any of the SS fasteners on your baot are orriginal replace them now
or expect horindous failures in the new future. ie crevis corrsion.
more late
BOb

Hi, Bob, and list,

Bob's cut for brevity (GASP! me, brief???)

The rust which is most vexing is on the welds on the bow roller system. I
believe it's 316; it's been fine for the last 30+ years, but the welds
weren't passivated. I heard from a member of the morgan list to which I
posed the same question about his experience with his davits; it was
effusive in praise. This will be a good test of the product.

I've also heard from the owner of the company, and sent him pix; we're
exploring a test sample before I lay in stores, but getting it will be
challenging other than waiting until we return to the states unless we have
a visitor fly in before that time, not currently expected.

The other nuisance stuff is all pipe, again 316, and plates (not plate, as
in plated). They take constant work in the marine environment. Our arch,
in particular, has been a thorn in my side from the day I took possession of
it. It restains within a month or two from agressive polishing/buffing with
Flitz or Prism Polish (which makes it look like new again, but doesn't
last).

The nature of this stuff means it's not a labor-intensive job, so even if it
takes reapplication more than 1x/year, it won't be onerous. Until I have a
sample and have had a chance to see it work, I'm reserving comment, but
literally everything I've read, and the few direct users I've heard from,
praise it effusively. If I have positive results, of course, the same will
be true for me.

No, no screw heads on deck :{)) The first 30 years, including many (well,
hundreds) removed from fixtures during our initial repeat, had no damaged
stainless fasteners, so I think I'm probably good to go.

L8R

Skip, maybe going to bed before tomorrow, when I'll finish, I hope, diving
the bottom

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand. You seek problems because you need their gifts."

(Richard Bach, in Illusions - The Reluctant Messiah)

One county heard from in the election results, in the morgan list:

Skip,

As one of the laziest skippers to have ever tugged on a halyard, I have to
give Spotless Stainless (SS) my hardiest recommendation.

Two years ago (after almost a twenty year hiatus from owning a sailboat) I
purchased a 1981 Morgan 321. The dingy davits that came with it were badly
surface rusted - sound, but looked bad. I removed them from the boat
forthwith and they've been in the way in my office for the past two years. I
have occasionally taken a bracket or two out to my garage to attempt
polishing them with all the standards (Magic Wad, Flitz, 3m, etc, etc, etc),
but all attempts had failed - until I came across SS. A couple of weeks ago
I took one of the brackets out to my drive way, and - unbelievable as it
might sound - faithfully followed the application instructions. The results
were astounding. The treated bracket, if not for some surface scratches,
appeared new. Viewed next to one of the untreated brackets the
transformation was astounding.

The best part - the astonishment came not so much from the results, but
largely from the lack of effort to achieve same. I simply "painted" some of
the SS on to the bracket, kept it moist for thirty minutes, then rinsed it
off. This stuff was made for me! I can polish all the stainless on my boat
without spilling my drink!

To be sure, the directions must be followed for the results I achieved with
the bracket. While at the boat a week later I tried a quicky application on
and around my stearnrail with less spectacular results. Still much better
than any other previous attempts with traditional polishes, but not as
experienced with the bracket. I'm sure it was my lack of attention to
keeping the metal moist the entire time, and maybe I tried to do too much at
once. A later, more disciplined application on my wheel yielded the desired
result.

I should state that I have no financial or business affiliation with the
makers of SS. I'm simply a lazy sailor looking for the holy grail of boat
maintenance products. I enjoy sailing, and hate working.

Regards,

Bill Cheadle
s/v en guard


L8R

Skip

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand. You seek problems because you need their gifts."

(Richard Bach, in Illusions - The Reluctant Messiah)

"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...
"Spotless stainless steel" reviews?


Any direct or first-hand friends' (you saw it personally) experience with
"Spotless Stainless Steel" (http://www.spotlessstainless.com/) here?

Wrestling with passivation issues and rust removal-and-protection for our
on-board stainless, we examined all the usual options; citric acid (the
active component here) seems to be the most envrionmentally friendly,
least
dangerous, and perhaps the most effective.

Phosporic acid, recommended by a friend who'd had all his new stainless
work
done where that was the pickler, seems to only take off surface rust, and
actually promotes rust in the end on stainless; worse, it attacks
chromium,
not a good thing for making stainless stay bright. Worse still, it's
nasty
for the marine environment, making phospates. It's actually usually used
in
paint prep for non-stainless steel applications.

Nitric acid, while effective, is very user-unfriendly and not so great to
the environment.

So, if it actually works as the company-sponsored reviews state, it looks
like it would be good for us to use on, in particular, the bow roller
welds
mentioned in the St. Augustine log, as they look perfectly awful.

L8R

Skip

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand. You seek problems because you need their gifts."

(Richard Bach, in Illusions - The Reluctant Messiah)

"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...



A clue for you. Whink! Comes in a little brown bottle and is used to take
rust stains out of clothing during the wash cycle.

Use it straight on the rust (old toothbrush works great). Rinse thoroughly
when the rust is gone. Then spray silicon spray on it. Buff with clean rag.
Should last months.


Wilbur Hubbard

Hi, Wilbur,

We have whink aboard; it sucks for stainless. The instructions are clear
about not using it on metals, too. Great for removing rust stains from the
deck or starboard and clothing, though.

L8R

Skip, finished diving the boat, thank God; I'm about chilled out and really
tired of chasing growth that comes back in a single day. I cleaned the prop
when I got in, and again when I got out, e.g.


--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand. You seek problems because you need their gifts."

(Richard Bach, in Illusions - The Reluctant Messiah)

"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...
Hi, Wilbur,

We have whink aboard; it sucks for stainless. The instructions are clear
about not using it on metals, too. Great for removing rust stains from the
deck or starboard and clothing, though.


It works great for my stainless in the few areas where it rusts. My original
stainless steel seems to rust little, if at all. I think they used to make
it better than they do now. I think they used more chromium in the olden
days. But I bought two bow rollers several years ago for anchors and they
are stainless steel, not smooth but sort of a grainy finish on them. They
surface rust and Whink makes them look like new in short order and even
dissolves the stain from the adjacent gelcoat.

I don't bother with the instructions as they are primarily placed on the
container as a requirement by lawyers against liability. Of course, rinsing
off all the acid is a requirement. Salt water does a good job in volume with
a final rinse with fresh water.


Wilbur Hubbard

On Thu, 6 May 2010 22:09:34 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

"Spotless stainless steel" reviews?


Any direct or first-hand friends' (you saw it personally) experience with
"Spotless Stainless Steel" (http://www.spotlessstainless.com/) here?

Wrestling with passivation issues and rust removal-and-protection for our
on-board stainless, we examined all the usual options; citric acid (the
active component here) seems to be the most envrionmentally friendly, least
dangerous, and perhaps the most effective.

Phosporic acid, recommended by a friend who'd had all his new stainless work
done where that was the pickler, seems to only take off surface rust, and
actually promotes rust in the end on stainless; worse, it attacks chromium,
not a good thing for making stainless stay bright. Worse still, it's nasty
for the marine environment, making phospates. It's actually usually used in
paint prep for non-stainless steel applications.

Nitric acid, while effective, is very user-unfriendly and not so great to
the environment.

So, if it actually works as the company-sponsored reviews state, it looks
like it would be good for us to use on, in particular, the bow roller welds
mentioned in the St. Augustine log, as they look perfectly awful.

L8R

Skip


I visited the site you mention above and frankly the description they
provide is confusing, at best.

I suggest that you try looking at professional sites and learn
something about industrial stainless treatment as your problems seem
improbable, to say the least.
Try http://www.outokumpu.com/application..._113142858.pdf as an
example.

There are many, many sites that provide very exact instructions for
the various methods of treating stainless and are not trying to sell
you a "wonder product".

For example, your comment on a pickling compound attacking
chromium...,. The pickling action is, in a sense, an "attack" on
chromium as the stainless protection is primarily chromium oxide...

I find it humorous that you talk about the effect of nitric acid on
the environment when you have a sufficient concentration of acid in
your stomach to etch metal.....


Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)