Help with fridge
 

my fridge has lost the gas, it is a danfoss Bd50F compressor that only
seems to have one service port. Is this normal? My fridge
troubleshooting book says there should be 2. Do I hook up just the
suction hose of the manifold gauge to this? Also do I need a vacume
pump to remove air or can I use the compressor to do this.

Help with fridge
 

"Longkeel35" wrote in message
...

my fridge has lost the gas, it is a danfoss Bd50F compressor that only
seems to have one service port. Is this normal? My fridge
troubleshooting book says there should be 2. Do I hook up just the
suction hose of the manifold gauge to this? Also do I need a vacume
pump to remove air or can I use the compressor to do this.



Go to your local NAPA auto parts store and purchase an adapter that you can
screw to the top Schrader valve equipped service port. You will need to
remove the Schrader valve itself prior to installing this adapter. Do it
quickly and you won't lose all the pressure and you won't have to do the
vacuum pump trick.

Once you have the adapter installed you can then use commercial R34
automobile air conditioner refills and hoses/gauge to recharge your fridge.
Get one with a pressure gauge and pressurize the fridge only to the top of
the yellow. Filling it to the green is too much pressure for the fridge and
it won't work.

I did this with mine because it seems to have developed a slow leak
someplace. It lasts about a season before needing a recharge. But a recharge
is simple and cheap with the adapter in place.

Wilbur Hubbard

Help with fridge
 

On Jan 3, 8:37*am, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Longkeel35" wrote in message

...



my fridge has lost the gas, it is a danfoss Bd50F compressor that only
seems to have one service port. Is this normal? My fridge
troubleshooting book says there should be 2. Do I hook up just the
suction hose of the manifold gauge to this? *Also do I need a vacume
pump to remove air or can I use the compressor to do this.

Go to your local NAPA auto parts store and purchase an adapter that you can
screw to the top Schrader valve equipped service port. You will need to
remove the Schrader valve itself prior to installing this adapter. Do it
quickly and you won't lose all the pressure and you won't have to do the
vacuum pump trick.

Once you have the adapter installed you can then use commercial R34
automobile air conditioner refills and hoses/gauge to recharge your fridge.
Get one with a pressure gauge and pressurize the fridge only to the top of
the yellow. Filling it to the green is too much pressure for the fridge and
it won't work.

I did this with mine because it seems to have developed a slow leak
someplace. It lasts about a season before needing a recharge. But a recharge
is simple and cheap with the adapter in place.

Wilbur Hubbard

Thanks Wilbur but I will probably have to solder the leak to fix it
which I assume means I will have to take all the gas out first? I have
already organized to get the normal manifold gauges for fridges.

Regards

Steve

Help with fridge
 

On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 14:28:21 -0800 (PST), Longkeel35
wrote:


my fridge has lost the gas, it is a danfoss Bd50F compressor that only
seems to have one service port. Is this normal? My fridge
troubleshooting book says there should be 2. Do I hook up just the
suction hose of the manifold gauge to this? Also do I need a vacume
pump to remove air or can I use the compressor to do this.

Which side of the pump is the port on? The suction or the pressure
side?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Help with fridge
 

Which side of the pump is the port on? The suction or the pressure
side?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
in the manual it states that it is the suction service port

Steve

Help with fridge
 

On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 22:38:59 -0800 (PST), Longkeel35
wrote:



Which side of the pump is the port on? The suction or the pressure
side?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
in the manual it states that it is the suction service port

Steve

Then you *could* use that port for servicing.

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Help with fridge
 

"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Longkeel35" wrote in message
...

my fridge has lost the gas, it is a danfoss Bd50F compressor that only
seems to have one service port. Is this normal? My fridge
troubleshooting book says there should be 2. Do I hook up just the
suction hose of the manifold gauge to this? Also do I need a vacume
pump to remove air or can I use the compressor to do this.

Do you have a license to handle, (or even have in your posession) the
refrigerant? I could turn your ass in, and share in the fine (minimum of
$15,000) that you will have to pay. I could use that extra money since the
bills for Christmas are starting to come in.


Go to your local NAPA auto parts store and purchase an adapter that you
can screw to the top Schrader valve equipped service port. You will need
to remove the Schrader valve itself prior to installing this adapter. Do
it quickly and you won't lose all the pressure and you won't have to do
the vacuum pump trick.

Once you have the adapter installed you can then use commercial R34
automobile air conditioner refills and hoses/gauge to recharge your
fridge. Get one with a pressure gauge and pressurize the fridge only to
the top of the yellow. Filling it to the green is too much pressure for
the fridge and it won't work.

I did this with mine because it seems to have developed a slow leak
someplace. It lasts about a season before needing a recharge. But a
recharge is simple and cheap with the adapter in place.

Wilbur Hubbard

You, too! And you've probably created an extra leak with your cheap-ass
adapter. What-in-the-HELL is wrong with getting things done correctly?

Help with fridge
 

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Help with fridge
 

"Ekal Byar" wrote in message
...

"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Longkeel35" wrote in message
...

my fridge has lost the gas, it is a danfoss Bd50F compressor that only
seems to have one service port. Is this normal? My fridge
troubleshooting book says there should be 2. Do I hook up just the
suction hose of the manifold gauge to this? Also do I need a vacume
pump to remove air or can I use the compressor to do this.

Do you have a license to handle, (or even have in your posession) the
refrigerant? I could turn your ass in, and share in the fine (minimum of
$15,000) that you will have to pay. I could use that extra money since
the bills for Christmas are starting to come in.


One needs no licence to purchase and use R34 refigerant. It's available in
most any auto parts store and Wal Mart and K Mart. R34 is considered safe
and doesn't harm the ozone layer. In lieu of R34 I have recently learned
that plain old propane works even better. I'm reluctant to try it as it's
explosive. Also I'm told that the propane molecule is much larger and leaks
less.




Go to your local NAPA auto parts store and purchase an adapter that you
can screw to the top Schrader valve equipped service port. You will need
to remove the Schrader valve itself prior to installing this adapter. Do
it quickly and you won't lose all the pressure and you won't have to do
the vacuum pump trick.

Once you have the adapter installed you can then use commercial R34
automobile air conditioner refills and hoses/gauge to recharge your
fridge. Get one with a pressure gauge and pressurize the fridge only to
the top of the yellow. Filling it to the green is too much pressure for
the fridge and it won't work.

I did this with mine because it seems to have developed a slow leak
someplace. It lasts about a season before needing a recharge. But a
recharge is simple and cheap with the adapter in place.

Wilbur Hubbard

You, too! And you've probably created an extra leak with your cheap-ass
adapter. What-in-the-HELL is wrong with getting things done correctly?





No leak created with the adapter. As a matter of fact, I used R34 with leak
stop and it seems to have plugged the original leak from the inside out. As
for getting things done *correctly* I tried that and it failed. I paid for a
service call from a refrigeration company. They came out to the boat,
refilled the unit and checked it for leaks with their fancy and expensive
leak detector and gave it a clean bill of health. It lasted about a year. It
lasted about a year from the factory. It apparently came from the factory
with slow leak built in.

So to avoid another $275 dollar service call that accomplished nothing I
decided if I wanted it done right that I'd do it myself. The pressure gauge
cost me fifteen bucks. The adapter about the same. The individual cans of
refrigerant are about seven bucks at Wal Mart. For less than 40 bucks it
seems like I have the leak under control as well as the means to keep it
that way.

I hope this helps.

Wilbur Hubbard

Help with fridge
 

On Sun, 3 Jan 2010 10:44:01 -0500, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

One needs no licence to purchase and use R34 refigerant. It's available in
most any auto parts store and Wal Mart and K Mart.

It's actually called R134a, the refrigerant used in most automotive
air conditioners. You still need a gauge set, fittings, can tap,
vacuum pump, leak detector and a modicum of knowledge to do the job
properly.

Help with fridge
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Jan 2010 10:44:01 -0500, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

One needs no licence to purchase and use R34 refigerant. It's available in
most any auto parts store and Wal Mart and K Mart.

It's actually called R134a, the refrigerant used in most automotive
air conditioners. You still need a gauge set, fittings, can tap,
vacuum pump, leak detector and a modicum of knowledge to do the job
properly.




That's the stuff.

Wilbur Hubbard

Help with fridge
 

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Help with fridge
 

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 11:13:43 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 3 Jan 2010 10:44:01 -0500, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

One needs no licence to purchase and use R34 refigerant. It's available in
most any auto parts store and Wal Mart and K Mart.

It's actually called R134a, the refrigerant used in most automotive
air conditioners. You still need a gauge set, fittings, can tap,
vacuum pump, leak detector and a modicum of knowledge to do the job
properly.

I saw something interesting on one site. Apparently after all the
folderol about changing from R12 to R134a has died down the Europeans
are now considering mandating a change to (possibly) Carbon Dioxide.
Another possible is R152a.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Help with fridge
 

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.
All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft
seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor.
Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix.
Another time the condenser was holed.
Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing
cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was
an old car not far from the boneyard.
But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind.
I have an evac pump and good gage set.
If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and
gage set total a bit less than $200.
And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along
if space is an issue.
But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench.
I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the
R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch.

--Vic

Help with fridge
 

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.

I had a couple of jobs maintaining a small fleet of vehicles. We use
the refrigerant with dye any time we had to re-charge a system. It
didn't fix anything by itself but it sure saves time when it came back
for service :-) "Eh! Look it's all red there". :-)
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Help with fridge
 

You, too! *And you've probably created an extra leak with your cheap-ass
adapter. *What-in-the-HELL is wrong with getting things done correctly?


Perhaps I should explain, I am an offshore yachtsman and spend long
periods in countries with no access to qualified fridge repair people
over the years out of necessity I have learned to service and repair
all onboard systems. I now have a new yacht with a fridge. I have been
reading up on refrigeration and was trying to increase my knowledge
before I pulled the system apart. I thought that was the purpose of
news groups. To those who gave assistance thanks for the help over the
past week or two I have learned alot about refrigeration and intend to
learn more. I often live where if you can't fix things yourself they
don't get fixed.

Help with fridge
 

On Thu, 7 Jan 2010 14:13:28 -0500, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

My suggestion that you get the adapter and gauge and refrigerant and service
it yourself comes from personal experience with the folly of expecting
somebody else to do as good a job at maintaining any system as well as an
informed and caring owner.

There is a lot of truth to that. To that end, allow me to recommend
a couple of books that I regard as excellent:

"Refrigeration for Pleasureboats: Installation, Maintenance and
Repair" - Nigel Calder

"Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual: How to Maintain,
Repair, and Improve Your Boat's Essential Systems" also by Nigel
Calder.

Both are available at amazon.com among other places.

Help with fridge
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 7 Jan 2010 14:13:28 -0500, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

My suggestion that you get the adapter and gauge and refrigerant and
service
it yourself comes from personal experience with the folly of expecting
somebody else to do as good a job at maintaining any system as well as an
informed and caring owner.

There is a lot of truth to that. To that end, allow me to recommend
a couple of books that I regard as excellent:

"Refrigeration for Pleasureboats: Installation, Maintenance and
Repair" - Nigel Calder

"Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual: How to Maintain,
Repair, and Improve Your Boat's Essential Systems" also by Nigel
Calder.

Both are available at amazon.com among other places.




Never hurts be become informed. Trial and error works but reducing trial and
error by learning from others is more workable. (Not to mention, less
expensive in most cases.)


Wilbur Hubbard

Help with fridge
 

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 18:50:23 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

I had a couple of jobs maintaining a small fleet of vehicles. We use
the refrigerant with dye any time we had to re-charge a system. It
didn't fix anything by itself but it sure saves time when it came back
for service :-) "Eh! Look it's all red there". :-)
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Here's another exploit from our megalomaniac usenet trol!!!!
I hope u don't mind if I send ur cr*p to all the sensible ng that give
u a kick up the arse!

Ur pal,
Mort
"Actually I am somewhat of an expert in weapons as I was in business
for a bit as a gunsmith, building super accurate varmint rifles" by
Goebells-in-Bangkok aka the nutty usenet troll, on 20 Apr 2009

Help with fridge
 

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.
All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft
seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor.
Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix.
Another time the condenser was holed.
Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing
cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was
an old car not far from the boneyard.
But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind.
I have an evac pump and good gage set.
If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and
gage set total a bit less than $200.
And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along
if space is an issue.
But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench.
I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the
R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch.

--Vic

I still have the case of R-12 I bought for $1.80 a can. Nothing ever
leaked, and I still have it all. Wonder what it is worth.

Casady

Help with fridge
 

On Mon, 11 Jan 2010 10:06:34 -0600, Richard Casady
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.
All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft
seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor.
Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix.
Another time the condenser was holed.
Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing
cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was
an old car not far from the boneyard.
But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind.
I have an evac pump and good gage set.
If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and
gage set total a bit less than $200.
And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along
if space is an issue.
But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench.
I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the
R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch.

--Vic

I still have the case of R-12 I bought for $1.80 a can. Nothing ever
leaked, and I still have it all. Wonder what it is worth.

Casady

It seems to be quite common over here. My previous truck had R-12 in
the system and when I had problems I just took it to the shop. No
questions, just connected the bottle and recharged it. Seems to be
plenty of the stuff around in these benighted 3rd world countries :-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Help with fridge
 

"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.
All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft
seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor.
Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix.
Another time the condenser was holed.
Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing
cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was
an old car not far from the boneyard.
But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind.
I have an evac pump and good gage set.
If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and
gage set total a bit less than $200.
And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along
if space is an issue.
But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench.
I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the
R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch.

--Vic

I still have the case of R-12 I bought for $1.80 a can. Nothing ever
leaked, and I still have it all. Wonder what it is worth.

Casady


Richard,
A case of 12, 12oz cans of R-12 costs about $360.00usd
A 30 lb cylinder of R-12 runs about 700 bucks.

Regards,
JR

Help with fridge
 

"BuckMulligan" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...
On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.
All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft
seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor.
Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix.
Another time the condenser was holed.
Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing
cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was
an old car not far from the boneyard.
But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind.
I have an evac pump and good gage set.
If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and
gage set total a bit less than $200.
And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along
if space is an issue.
But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench.
I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the
R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch.

--Vic

I still have the case of R-12 I bought for $1.80 a can. Nothing ever
leaked, and I still have it all. Wonder what it is worth.

Casady

Jail time.


Not if you are licensed
Regards,
JR

Help with fridge
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 11 Jan 2010 10:06:34 -0600, Richard Casady
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:28:02 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:36:17 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 09:41:06 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 18:30:13 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

To answer a previously asked question, if the system has lost its
charge and air has entered the system then you will need to vacuum the
system to remove any moisture that might have gotten into the system.

Yes, and it should be professionally leak checked at the same time.

Of course. It hardly bears saying that if the fridge leaks all it's
gas it does need to be checked for leaks :-)

Dyed R134 can be used as a charge, and leaks easily seen with a UV
light that comes with the dye kit. Don't need a sniffer.
Here's one.
http://www.autobarn.net/artic-freeze-recharge-kit.html
I've used the Inter-Dynamics dye a few times, but the last time I
looked for that dye I had to get it from e-Bay.
I've only done automotive.
All the leaks but two I've run I've run across are compressor shaft
seals, which means it's time to buy a new compressor.
Found a leaky o-ring on a drier once. Easy fix.
Another time the condenser was holed.
Almost $300 later with a new condenser I still didn't get it blowing
cold as the compressor was probably shot. Gave up on that as it was
an old car not far from the boneyard.
But an example of wasting money there, so keep that in mind.
I have an evac pump and good gage set.
If you are inclined to do this it can pay off. A decent evac pump and
gage set total a bit less than $200.
And they take up some space, so might not be practical to carry along
if space is an issue.
But learn the basics. And you still need to handle a wrench.
I don't like putting stop leak in any system, but it seems most of the
R134 cans at auto stores come with it, so I've done it in a pinch.

--Vic

I still have the case of R-12 I bought for $1.80 a can. Nothing ever
leaked, and I still have it all. Wonder what it is worth.

Casady

It seems to be quite common over here. My previous truck had R-12 in
the system and when I had problems I just took it to the shop. No
questions, just connected the bottle and recharged it. Seems to be
plenty of the stuff around in these benighted 3rd world countries :-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

There is plenty in the US too.
I get mine from Coolgas in Magnolia, TX

Regards,
JR