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On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 11:45:39 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

A question?

How does one connect to the tank outlet and (in my case) macerator
pump inlet using PVC?



Hi, Richard,

The standard hose outlet fitting takes, of course, 1.5" hose. That hose OD
is exactly the outside diameter of 1.5" pipe.

So, I put a sleeve of hose on the barb fitting. making it exactly match the
end of the barb fitting. I make the connection a tight butt (in our aft
through-hull, it was a slight - maybe 3* - off-line, so I shaved the end of
the pipe, very carefully, to the proper angle to make it a tight butt
fitting).

A standard waste pipe rubber coupling sleeve goes over both. Liberal
application of KY equivalent or teflon grease will allow later moving, as
was the case in my forward head, where I changed out the Y valve, and my aft
head, in which I replaced everything but the bowl - loosen the clamps, slide
the coupling up on the PVC to get it out of the way, and do what you need to
do. Slide it back down to reinstall.

In addition to the standard two hose clamps supplied with the coupling, I
put another right over the butt. That prevents any seepage from getting to
the rest of the coupling. NO possibility of odor transfer. When I took off
my couplings to do my work on both heads, once the other end was out of the
way, I pulled off the coupling and looked inside. Not a mark of seepage on
either one...

Odor-safe or whatever the white hose marketer is, in their website, sells
PVC connectors which are the right size for attaching a hose; even they
recommend PVC where possible. Since, other than in the forward head, I
didn't have any hose points, that was irrelevant. In the forward head,
where I had a small section of hose into the wall, I just took a standard
hardware fitting (screws into the threaded coupling in the PVC) and ground
off the barbs until the 1.5" hose fit it, something I learned from seeing it
on some other application when I got the boat. When I redo that front head
part, I'll unthread the coupling and replace it with straight PVC, making my
bends as needed to match up perfectly with the toilet outlet, using the same
sleeve idea to make the rubber coupling fit. When I rebuild the pump, all
I'll have to do is slide the coupling up the PVC, and remove it, if just
undoing the bolts on the joker holder isn't sufficient.

One other hint, also long-ago discussed here with Peggie, is that we very
aggressively flush with raw water after each use. That helps move any urine
products through the system, minimizing scale formation. We then also dry
pump aggressively to empty the pipe to the anti-siphon. PVC will take
muriatic acid and vinegar with aplomb (get your plomb here, folks, going
fast!), so we do that regularly, too. Of course, we have no proof, but I'd
bet a bunch that we have no scale in our pipes...

HTH

L8R

Skip


Which brings up a question I have always wondered abut.

When flushing a toilet connected directly to the ocean one pumps
flushing water through the system until, it is hoped, all evidence of
one's actions have been eliminated. But how about when one is using a
holding tank. Doesn't all this flushing tend to fill up the tank
rather rapidly

On my own system which has the toilet mounted with the top of the bowl
just above the water line, using the normal anti-siphon "loop", it
takes ten strokes of the pump to pump water completely through the
system. I have no idea what the volume of the pump is but I suspect
that ten strokes is a lot more then the approximately 1 qt. that I see
in the usual holding tank capacity calculations.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
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On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 07:57:57 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

Doesn't all this flushing tend to fill up the tank
rather rapidly


Yes it will.

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Wayne.B wrote:
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 07:57:57 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

Doesn't all this flushing tend to fill up the tank
rather rapidly


Yes it will.


And a small tank fills in a hurry.


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On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 20:28:22 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

Wayne.B wrote:
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 07:57:57 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

Doesn't all this flushing tend to fill up the tank
rather rapidly


Yes it will.


And a small tank fills in a hurry.


According to my Jabsco toilet instruction manual it takes 7 pump
strokes per meter of hose. Lets see, if the hose is 1.5 inch (I
believe Skip said) then one meter is equal to about 1140 cubic
centimeters, or slightly more then a liter. So, if the hose between
the toilet and the holding tank is 1 meter long it is a minimum of a
liter a flush. If, on the other hand, it is longer then a meter and
there is an anti-siphon loop then....

It appears that bigger IS better...

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
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On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:27:39 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:


According to my Jabsco toilet instruction manual it takes 7 pump
strokes per meter of hose. Lets see, if the hose is 1.5 inch (I
believe Skip said) then one meter is equal to about 1140 cubic
centimeters, or slightly more then a liter. So, if the hose between
the toilet and the holding tank is 1 meter long it is a minimum of a
liter a flush. If, on the other hand, it is longer then a meter and
there is an anti-siphon loop then....

It appears that bigger IS better...

Cheers,

Bruce


From tests, my Jabsco takes 23 pumps per gallon.

We have a Lectra/San so wanted to know how much to move through for
the twice a year cleaning.

Found out something interesting the other day. Our floating home is a
'63 Pearson Rhodes 41 with the original, well maintained Lectra/San
inatalled before 1978. It is grandfathered so it's legal for us to use
in NDZ's.

Rick


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"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
Which brings up a question I have always wondered abut.

When flushing a toilet connected directly to the ocean one pumps
flushing water through the system until, it is hoped, all evidence of
one's actions have been eliminated. But how about when one is using a
holding tank. Doesn't all this flushing tend to fill up the tank
rather rapidly

On my own system which has the toilet mounted with the top of the bowl
just above the water line, using the normal anti-siphon "loop", it
takes ten strokes of the pump to pump water completely through the
system. I have no idea what the volume of the pump is but I suspect
that ten strokes is a lot more then the approximately 1 qt. that I see
in the usual holding tank capacity calculations.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom


Yah, this procedure isn't very good for holding tanks. Much more aggressive
acid/vinegar process needed for HT situations where you'd want the least
possible fluid transfer...

L8R

Skip

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(and)
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On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:19:14 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
Which brings up a question I have always wondered abut.

When flushing a toilet connected directly to the ocean one pumps
flushing water through the system until, it is hoped, all evidence of
one's actions have been eliminated. But how about when one is using a
holding tank. Doesn't all this flushing tend to fill up the tank
rather rapidly

On my own system which has the toilet mounted with the top of the bowl
just above the water line, using the normal anti-siphon "loop", it
takes ten strokes of the pump to pump water completely through the
system. I have no idea what the volume of the pump is but I suspect
that ten strokes is a lot more then the approximately 1 qt. that I see
in the usual holding tank capacity calculations.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom


Yah, this procedure isn't very good for holding tanks. Much more aggressive
acid/vinegar process needed for HT situations where you'd want the least
possible fluid transfer...

L8R

Skip


The normally recommended practice is to flush the lines clean after
each use to try to avoid scale buildup. Are you saying that when using
a holding tank one doesn't flush the lines out - that the "stuff" just
lies in the lines and ferments? Certainly if this is the technique I
can see why the hoses begin to smell.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
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On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:11:43 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

The normally recommended practice is to flush the lines clean after
each use to try to avoid scale buildup. Are you saying that when using
a holding tank one doesn't flush the lines out - that the "stuff" just
lies in the lines and ferments? Certainly if this is the technique I
can see why the hoses begin to smell.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


Bruce, the Brown-eyed Mullet - i.e. a Turd in the Sea - has spoken
about his favourite subject: Floating Excreta.
Actually nobody can actually compete with the very ultimate expert in
cr*p of the usenet!
So you're required to show some respect for our senile smelly brown
Captain-in-BS that needs some psychological help because nobody
believes his rantings about its knowledge as IT expert/ freelance
journalist/ weapon expert/ English teacher/ Vietnam Vet/ yacht owner/
couch potato boozehound/jungle oil worker/Goebbels in Bangkok/Gross
SS/ Water Supervisor.

Mort, the humble proctologist.
-
"Actually I am somewhat of an expert in weapons as I was in business
for a bit as a gunsmith, building super accurate varmint rifles" by
Goebells-in-Bangkok, aka the Usenet Smelly Sewer on 20 Apr 2009
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If it looks like Wilbur, sounds like Wilbur, and smells like Wilbur...
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On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 18:23:12 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

If it looks like Wilbur, sounds like Wilbur, and smells like Wilbur...


"smells"?
In this psychiatric...err, present case, I'd rather say "stinks"...

:-o
Mort
"I have a degree in Mechanical Engineering, spent 20
years in the Air Force keeping them big silver birds flying; then
worked another twenty years for one of the larger oil field
construction and support companies in Indonesia. I'd have to say that
yes, I do know a bit about mechanical and electrical systems"-
megalomaniac ranting from Bruce in Bangkok (one of the aliases of GSS)
on rec.boats.cruising, 01 Nov 2007



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