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Edgar December 15th 09 11:33 AM

Top of the mast...
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
I had one of those "rope ladder" things once. It was on a boat that I
bought and on first inspection I thought it was a great idea. then I
tried it out. If you aren't on dry land you need to tie off the bottom
and then tension the "ladder"; and even then it still sags off. Once
you get up there you are standing in fabric loops that not only
support you but also compress your foot so it becomes uncomfortable to
work after a very short time.
My suspicion is that they probably work if you just want to go up and
clear a caught halyard but as far as doing any real work up there they
are a waste of time. Try doing a job that takes several hours - such
as cutting and fitting new upper shroud plates, or fitting a plate to
the top of the mast to hold your new raz-a-mataz VHF antenna and
re;positioning the tri-color to clear the new antenna. A couple of
hours in those fabric stirrups and you're a cripple.


Surely, without making the whole thing too bulky by replacing all the canvas
steps with wooden slats, you could have one wooden step at the place where
you would have to stand while doing work at the masthead?



Rick Morel December 15th 09 11:41 AM

Hoses
 
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:27:39 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:


According to my Jabsco toilet instruction manual it takes 7 pump
strokes per meter of hose. Lets see, if the hose is 1.5 inch (I
believe Skip said) then one meter is equal to about 1140 cubic
centimeters, or slightly more then a liter. So, if the hose between
the toilet and the holding tank is 1 meter long it is a minimum of a
liter a flush. If, on the other hand, it is longer then a meter and
there is an anti-siphon loop then....

It appears that bigger IS better...

Cheers,

Bruce


From tests, my Jabsco takes 23 pumps per gallon.

We have a Lectra/San so wanted to know how much to move through for
the twice a year cleaning.

Found out something interesting the other day. Our floating home is a
'63 Pearson Rhodes 41 with the original, well maintained Lectra/San
inatalled before 1978. It is grandfathered so it's legal for us to use
in NDZ's.

Rick

Bruce In Bangkok December 15th 09 12:10 PM

Top of the mast...
 
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:33:11 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:


"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
I had one of those "rope ladder" things once. It was on a boat that I
bought and on first inspection I thought it was a great idea. then I
tried it out. If you aren't on dry land you need to tie off the bottom
and then tension the "ladder"; and even then it still sags off. Once
you get up there you are standing in fabric loops that not only
support you but also compress your foot so it becomes uncomfortable to
work after a very short time.
My suspicion is that they probably work if you just want to go up and
clear a caught halyard but as far as doing any real work up there they
are a waste of time. Try doing a job that takes several hours - such
as cutting and fitting new upper shroud plates, or fitting a plate to
the top of the mast to hold your new raz-a-mataz VHF antenna and
re;positioning the tri-color to clear the new antenna. A couple of
hours in those fabric stirrups and you're a cripple.


Surely, without making the whole thing too bulky by replacing all the canvas
steps with wooden slats, you could have one wooden step at the place where
you would have to stand while doing work at the masthead?


The problem is that you now have a ladder attached to a rope which
leads to the top of the mast. Ever tried to do any work attached to a
rope? Tighten a bolt - you pull on the wrench and you move...

Try standing with your upper body above the masthead as you need to do
to actually do any work on the top of the mast.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Capt. JG December 15th 09 04:59 PM

Top of the mast...
 
wrote in message
...
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 22:39:07 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 20:26:21 -0600, cavelamb
wrote:

wrote:
Mast steps?

Nope.

You have a modified Top Climber ? as I recall...

Completely my own creation. No Top Climber components used. Same idea,
but using better components and several design improvements.


No offense intended, but i can't imagine actually trying to use that.

A bosun's chair on a rope is one thing. Your hands are (more or less)
free to do something.

But climbing up what amounts to a rope ladder and trying to do anything
beyond snapping pictures is way beyond me.

Professional steeple jacks sometimes use a similar rig with a small
bosuns chair that goes up with them. I talked with one of them once
(on the ground) and he was a rock climber in his spare time.


I'm related to the founder of this company, which climbs things more
challenging than your average church steeple. He gave me some of the
equipment in my rig. More importantly, he gave me a copy of the
company safety manual he wrote, which is a pretty thick book.

http://www.vertical-access.com/



You should post some pictures of the device you're using. I'd certainly like
to see it, although I doubt I'd attempt to duplicate it.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com




Flying Pig[_2_] December 15th 09 05:19 PM

Hoses
 
"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
Which brings up a question I have always wondered abut.

When flushing a toilet connected directly to the ocean one pumps
flushing water through the system until, it is hoped, all evidence of
one's actions have been eliminated. But how about when one is using a
holding tank. Doesn't all this flushing tend to fill up the tank
rather rapidly

On my own system which has the toilet mounted with the top of the bowl
just above the water line, using the normal anti-siphon "loop", it
takes ten strokes of the pump to pump water completely through the
system. I have no idea what the volume of the pump is but I suspect
that ten strokes is a lot more then the approximately 1 qt. that I see
in the usual holding tank capacity calculations.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom


Yah, this procedure isn't very good for holding tanks. Much more aggressive
acid/vinegar process needed for HT situations where you'd want the least
possible fluid transfer...

L8R

Skip

--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand
(Richard Bach)
)



Bruce In Bangkok December 16th 09 12:11 AM

Hoses
 
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:19:14 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
Which brings up a question I have always wondered abut.

When flushing a toilet connected directly to the ocean one pumps
flushing water through the system until, it is hoped, all evidence of
one's actions have been eliminated. But how about when one is using a
holding tank. Doesn't all this flushing tend to fill up the tank
rather rapidly

On my own system which has the toilet mounted with the top of the bowl
just above the water line, using the normal anti-siphon "loop", it
takes ten strokes of the pump to pump water completely through the
system. I have no idea what the volume of the pump is but I suspect
that ten strokes is a lot more then the approximately 1 qt. that I see
in the usual holding tank capacity calculations.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom


Yah, this procedure isn't very good for holding tanks. Much more aggressive
acid/vinegar process needed for HT situations where you'd want the least
possible fluid transfer...

L8R

Skip


The normally recommended practice is to flush the lines clean after
each use to try to avoid scale buildup. Are you saying that when using
a holding tank one doesn't flush the lines out - that the "stuff" just
lies in the lines and ferments? Certainly if this is the technique I
can see why the hoses begin to smell.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Magnus December 17th 09 11:32 PM

Hoses
 
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:11:43 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

The normally recommended practice is to flush the lines clean after
each use to try to avoid scale buildup. Are you saying that when using
a holding tank one doesn't flush the lines out - that the "stuff" just
lies in the lines and ferments? Certainly if this is the technique I
can see why the hoses begin to smell.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


Bruce, the Brown-eyed Mullet - i.e. a Turd in the Sea - has spoken
about his favourite subject: Floating Excreta.
Actually nobody can actually compete with the very ultimate expert in
cr*p of the usenet!
So you're required to show some respect for our senile smelly brown
Captain-in-BS that needs some psychological help because nobody
believes his rantings about its knowledge as IT expert/ freelance
journalist/ weapon expert/ English teacher/ Vietnam Vet/ yacht owner/
couch potato boozehound/jungle oil worker/Goebbels in Bangkok/Gross
SS/ Water Supervisor.

Mort, the humble proctologist.
-
"Actually I am somewhat of an expert in weapons as I was in business
for a bit as a gunsmith, building super accurate varmint rifles" by
Goebells-in-Bangkok, aka the Usenet Smelly Sewer on 20 Apr 2009

cavelamb December 18th 09 12:23 AM

Hoses
 
If it looks like Wilbur, sounds like Wilbur, and smells like Wilbur...

Richard Casady December 18th 09 03:15 PM

Top of the mast...
 
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:05:19 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

A couple of
hours in those fabric stirrups and you're a cripple.


Climbing boots will not crush even slightly. Cowboy boots are designed
to go in stirrups.

Casady

cavelamb December 18th 09 04:22 PM

Top of the mast...
 
Richard Casady wrote:
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:05:19 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

A couple of
hours in those fabric stirrups and you're a cripple.


Climbing boots will not crush even slightly. Cowboy boots are designed
to go in stirrups.

Casady


You are NOT wearing those on MY deck, sonny!


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