Repairing Dinghy Oar
 

On Mon, 27 Apr 2009 20:40:09 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

Probably not. You could guild the lily with a blade tip wrap in
glass/epoxy, and varnish overall....

When I was a kid fifty years ago we had a kayak paddle around the lake
place. Varnished with copper on the tips.

Repairing Dinghy Oar
 

Richard Casady wrote:
On Mon, 27 Apr 2009 20:40:09 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote:

Probably not. You could guild the lily with a blade tip wrap in
glass/epoxy, and varnish overall....

When I was a kid fifty years ago we had a kayak paddle around the lake
place. Varnished with copper on the tips.

I made a wood and canvas kayak as a kid - but I went to buy a kayak
paddle. Wood shafts and blades, with brass connectors, but copper clad
tips were not to be had - so I went with glass wrapped blade tips.
Later, tipped a passenger into the (shallow) water when I tried to stand
up - in a kayak! (dumb, dumb, dumb...)

Brian W

Repairing Dinghy Oar
 

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:23:41 +0200, "Edgar"
wrote:


"mmc" wrote in message
ting.com...

"Derek Lawler" wrote in message
.. .
What would be the best glue to repair the wooden blade of an oar? I was
going to use epoxy glue but is there another good or better
alternative?
Thanks.
Derek

From my experience, an epoxy glued junction (where the 2 pieces of wood
broke) is stronger than the surrounding wood. Might not hold true with
true hardwoods, but that's the way it is with teak, mahogany, fir, pine,
spruce......
Teak is a bit doubtful for ordinary epoxy resin since it is an oily sort
of
wood.
A resorcinol based adhesive is recommended for teak (and oak) instead of
the usual epoxy resin. Only trouble with this is that it is very dark in
colour and o the glue line will be quite visible under varnish..


I've had no problem using epoxy on teak, even for laminations where
the pieces are under tension from being bent. Just wipe the surface
down with acetone immediately before applying the epoxy and clamping.
The epoxy must have filler in it, and you must use a slow hardner.

Any epoxy joints exposed to UV must be protected to prevent
deterioration.


I want to thank everyone that responded. I went ahead and glued the
de-laminated slice after sanding the surface thoroughly. I used some old
epoxy two part glue that set up rather sticky but looks as though it will
hold. Will have to scrape off the surplus to paint over it with white
acrylic.
Derek