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r.b.c = R.I.P.
pity the dumbassess moved in
-- poking dumbasses in the forehead, one dumbass at a time |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
I agee. This newsgroup has been invaded by idiots. Worse still is that the
culprits do not know they are the problem. Steve "wordsmith" wrote in message m... pity the dumbassess moved in -- poking dumbasses in the forehead, one dumbass at a time |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
Steve Lusardi wrote:
I agee. This newsgroup has been invaded by idiots. Worse still is that the culprits do not know they are the problem. Steve "wordsmith" wrote in message m... pity the dumbassess moved in -- poking dumbasses in the forehead, one dumbass at a time I'd loan a finger, but in the long run it doesn't really do any good. Nice try, though! Richard |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
Dave wrote:
On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 18:36:50 -0600, cavelamb said: in the long run it doesn't really do any good. It instills in the author a wonderful feeling of self-righteousness, though: "God, I thank thee that I am not as other men." I dunno about the feeling of self-righteousness part. I think I feel more thankful. More like, there but for the Grace of God go I... |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m... Dave wrote: On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 18:36:50 -0600, cavelamb said: in the long run it doesn't really do any good. It instills in the author a wonderful feeling of self-righteousness, though: "God, I thank thee that I am not as other men." I dunno about the feeling of self-righteousness part. I think I feel more thankful. More like, there but for the Grace of God go I... That's the ticket. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 00:51:41 +0100, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote: I agee. This newsgroup has been invaded by idiots. Worse still is that the culprits do not know they are the problem. Steve "wordsmith" wrote in message om... pity the dumbassess moved in -- poking dumbasses in the forehead, one dumbass at a time The way to fix this of course is with more on topic boating/cruising posts. I went for a cruise in the dinghy today since the trawler is hauled out for bottom painting. It was kind of interesting actually, the sort of thing we might do on an actual cruise, exploring interesting looking backwaters and enjoying an hour or two on the water. There are lots of opportunities here close to home with all of the canals and creeks branching off from the Caloosahatchie River. I've been looking at ways of making the dinghy engine more bullet proof since my little rowing adventuer in the Marquesas Keys last month. The net result has been a *large* fuel filter permanently mounted on the transom and plumbed into the fuel hose. I changed the quick connects on the tank fittings to make them compatible with each other and can now switch the fuel line from one tank to the other in seconds. That leaves me with a second fuel line and primer bulb which could be used as a backup, or to entirely bypass the filter assembly if necessary. None of this would be necessary if I confined my dinghy explorations to a shorter radius but to me half the fun of cruising is getting out and exploring the backwaters, even if they happen to be 5 miles away. |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
... On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 00:51:41 +0100, "Steve Lusardi" wrote: I agee. This newsgroup has been invaded by idiots. Worse still is that the culprits do not know they are the problem. Steve "wordsmith" wrote in message news:T9CdnWAvnNQ44jnUnZ2dnUVZ_o7inZ2d@supernews. com... pity the dumbassess moved in -- poking dumbasses in the forehead, one dumbass at a time The way to fix this of course is with more on topic boating/cruising posts. I went for a cruise in the dinghy today since the trawler is hauled out for bottom painting. It was kind of interesting actually, the sort of thing we might do on an actual cruise, exploring interesting looking backwaters and enjoying an hour or two on the water. There are lots of opportunities here close to home with all of the canals and creeks branching off from the Caloosahatchie River. I've been looking at ways of making the dinghy engine more bullet proof since my little rowing adventuer in the Marquesas Keys last month. The net result has been a *large* fuel filter permanently mounted on the transom and plumbed into the fuel hose. I changed the quick connects on the tank fittings to make them compatible with each other and can now switch the fuel line from one tank to the other in seconds. That leaves me with a second fuel line and primer bulb which could be used as a backup, or to entirely bypass the filter assembly if necessary. None of this would be necessary if I confined my dinghy explorations to a shorter radius but to me half the fun of cruising is getting out and exploring the backwaters, even if they happen to be 5 miles away. I just got back from hauling my boat. Took a bunch of video and a few stills (I'll post them at some point). The bottom looked pretty good for being untouched for three years. There was still some zincs left on the strut, and the cutlass had minimal wear. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 19:20:19 -0800, "Capt. JG"
wrote: I just got back from hauling my boat. Took a bunch of video and a few stills (I'll post them at some point). The bottom looked pretty good for being untouched for three years. There was still some zincs left on the strut, and the cutlass had minimal wear. What kind of bottom paint did you use? Three years is pretty good. Mine looked awful after two years but the yard suspects a faulty prep job on the previous paint. Some spots were surprisingly good however. Florida is a tough fouling environment of course. |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
... On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 19:20:19 -0800, "Capt. JG" wrote: I just got back from hauling my boat. Took a bunch of video and a few stills (I'll post them at some point). The bottom looked pretty good for being untouched for three years. There was still some zincs left on the strut, and the cutlass had minimal wear. What kind of bottom paint did you use? Three years is pretty good. Mine looked awful after two years but the yard suspects a faulty prep job on the previous paint. Some spots were surprisingly good however. Florida is a tough fouling environment of course. It's an ablative. Interlux Micron 66. I didn't have a diver. If I had it might have looked better, but I would risk some additional paint loss, due to the cleaning. Bizarrely, I thought I was using Pettit Trinidad and thought it was red not blue. I guess I was thinking of the other boat that got hauled under my care. The 66 is a better paint, so I'm happy to spend the extra $200 or so. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 23:30:16 -0800, "Capt. JG"
wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message .. . On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 19:20:19 -0800, "Capt. JG" wrote: I just got back from hauling my boat. Took a bunch of video and a few stills (I'll post them at some point). The bottom looked pretty good for being untouched for three years. There was still some zincs left on the strut, and the cutlass had minimal wear. What kind of bottom paint did you use? Three years is pretty good. Mine looked awful after two years but the yard suspects a faulty prep job on the previous paint. Some spots were surprisingly good however. Florida is a tough fouling environment of course. It's an ablative. Interlux Micron 66. I didn't have a diver. If I had it might have looked better, but I would risk some additional paint loss, due to the cleaning. Bizarrely, I thought I was using Pettit Trinidad and thought it was red not blue. I guess I was thinking of the other boat that got hauled under my care. The 66 is a better paint, so I'm happy to spend the extra $200 or so. Do you keep your boat in a slip? If so, I'll email you a photo of what I use to clean the bottom without getting in the water. Cost less than $20 to make. My dock is in a warm river, so fouling is an issue. Used to have a diver every 3 weeks. Now I do it myself for free on an "as needed" basis. I almost bought a dri-diver, but decided to try this idea first. I think it works better, and it sure is easier to store. Unlike the dri-diver, I can use this for the keel and rudder. |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 06:49:39 -0500, wrote:
Do you keep your boat in a slip? If so, I'll email you a photo of what I use to clean the bottom without getting in the water. Cost less than $20 to make. Perhaps you could post us a URL to the photo using something like: http://www.imageshack.us/ They ask for your EMAIL but it is not required. After the picture uploads click on the thumbnail to get the image full size with a bunch of advertising. On the full size image right click "properties" to get the actual URL of the image without the advertising, like this: http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/8862/...landsounda.jpg I have always liked that picture because if you look closely, you can see our transom and wake in the reflection on the dolphin. |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
wrote in message
... On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 23:30:16 -0800, "Capt. JG" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message . .. On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 19:20:19 -0800, "Capt. JG" wrote: I just got back from hauling my boat. Took a bunch of video and a few stills (I'll post them at some point). The bottom looked pretty good for being untouched for three years. There was still some zincs left on the strut, and the cutlass had minimal wear. What kind of bottom paint did you use? Three years is pretty good. Mine looked awful after two years but the yard suspects a faulty prep job on the previous paint. Some spots were surprisingly good however. Florida is a tough fouling environment of course. It's an ablative. Interlux Micron 66. I didn't have a diver. If I had it might have looked better, but I would risk some additional paint loss, due to the cleaning. Bizarrely, I thought I was using Pettit Trinidad and thought it was red not blue. I guess I was thinking of the other boat that got hauled under my care. The 66 is a better paint, so I'm happy to spend the extra $200 or so. Do you keep your boat in a slip? If so, I'll email you a photo of what I use to clean the bottom without getting in the water. Cost less than $20 to make. My dock is in a warm river, so fouling is an issue. Used to have a diver every 3 weeks. Now I do it myself for free on an "as needed" basis. I almost bought a dri-diver, but decided to try this idea first. I think it works better, and it sure is easier to store. Unlike the dri-diver, I can use this for the keel and rudder. Yep... sure as heck don't want to go swimming, too cold, too polluted. Send away or post. I have one of those foam things, but I've been paranoid about using it .. afraid of scraping too hard and not being able to see what I'm doing. Given that I've never scraped nor used a diver, the bottom looked pretty good. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 14:18:05 -0500, wrote:
The commercial "dri-diver" uses what is essentially scotchbrite pads for cleaning. I think this broom setup is a lot less aggressive than that, but still wipes all the fuzz off the hull pretty well. Interesting, thanks. I assume that you use it from a floating dock? |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
wrote in message
... On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 10:22:51 -0800, "Capt. JG" wrote: wrote in message . .. On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 23:30:16 -0800, "Capt. JG" wrote: "Wayne.B" wrote in message m... On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 19:20:19 -0800, "Capt. JG" wrote: I just got back from hauling my boat. Took a bunch of video and a few stills (I'll post them at some point). The bottom looked pretty good for being untouched for three years. There was still some zincs left on the strut, and the cutlass had minimal wear. What kind of bottom paint did you use? Three years is pretty good. Mine looked awful after two years but the yard suspects a faulty prep job on the previous paint. Some spots were surprisingly good however. Florida is a tough fouling environment of course. It's an ablative. Interlux Micron 66. I didn't have a diver. If I had it might have looked better, but I would risk some additional paint loss, due to the cleaning. Bizarrely, I thought I was using Pettit Trinidad and thought it was red not blue. I guess I was thinking of the other boat that got hauled under my care. The 66 is a better paint, so I'm happy to spend the extra $200 or so. Do you keep your boat in a slip? If so, I'll email you a photo of what I use to clean the bottom without getting in the water. Cost less than $20 to make. My dock is in a warm river, so fouling is an issue. Used to have a diver every 3 weeks. Now I do it myself for free on an "as needed" basis. I almost bought a dri-diver, but decided to try this idea first. I think it works better, and it sure is easier to store. Unlike the dri-diver, I can use this for the keel and rudder. Yep... sure as heck don't want to go swimming, too cold, too polluted. Send away or post. I have one of those foam things, but I've been paranoid about using it .. afraid of scraping too hard and not being able to see what I'm doing. Given that I've never scraped nor used a diver, the bottom looked pretty good. http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ullsweeper.jpg The broom I used is from Home Depot. They sell it in a few variations. The difference is mostly how stiff the bristles are. I used the one they recommended for rough surfaces, which is the stiffest. Still almost too soft for the job, but very kind to the ablative bottom paint. This broom has a triangular metal support which you can barely see in the photo. It goes from the yellow threaded part to two points on the head of the brush to give it sideways strength. It's needed! The first one I made lacked that and broke almost immediately. The yellow piece comes with the broom. I just removed it from the broom handle it came mounted on. The bent tube is just 3/4" copper plumbing pipe and a 45 degree elbow solderd together and filled with epoxy. The offset gained with the tubing is what makes the broom handle able to clear the curve of the hull to reach all the way to the middle of the bottom. The two pool noodles push the brush gently but firmly up against the bottom. I move the handle back and forth, but the pool noodles apply the pressure without my help. The female thread (green plastic) I just cut off of a cheaper car window squeegee. I ground away the body of it until it was paper thin and would fit inside the 3/4 inch pipe. I then filled the pipe with epoxy and inserted the female piece, which I precoated with some epoxy to fill and voids. After it set, I drilled into the bottom of the green plastic piece and the epoxy behind it with a 1/8 inch bit and put in a screw to make sure the threaded part couldn't be yanked out. I have used it by threading it onto my telescoping aluminum boat hook, but that really doesn't reach everywhere. I now have a telescopic aluminum pole with a METAL threaded end on it that goes from 8 feet to 16 feet. Sounds extreme, but it really makes life easy. Make sure you get one with a meatl thread. My first one had a plastic thread and broke the second time I used it. The commercial "dri-diver" uses what is essentially scotchbrite pads for cleaning. I think this broom setup is a lot less aggressive than that, but still wipes all the fuzz off the hull pretty well. This looks somewhat similar to the commercial scrubber someone gave me a long time ago. It's got a flat pad about the same width of the broom. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
r.b.c = R.I.P.
wordsmith wrote:
pity the dumbassess moved in copy that... |
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