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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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RM@30 from RM@1
Just verifying my standing rigging specs before approving my order and need
someone to confirm my calculations. All the formulas I have found for standing rigging loads are based on RM@30 but all I have is RM@1. The formula for RM is RM=Displacement*GM* SIN but I don't have the metacenter height (GM) either so working backwards; RM/GM=Displacement*SIN therefore (I hated that word in 10 grade algebra) GM= RM/Displacement*SIN Substituting: GM=1952/24,400*.01745 GM=4.58 Now, to get RM@30: RM@30=55,931 (Say 60K lb.) Am I on the right track? -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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RM@30 from RM@1
On Fri, 8 Aug 2008 21:21:12 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote: Just verifying my standing rigging specs before approving my order and need someone to confirm my calculations. All the formulas I have found for standing rigging loads are based on RM@30 but all I have is RM@1. The formula for RM is RM=Displacement*GM* SIN but I don't have the metacenter height (GM) either so working backwards; RM/GM=Displacement*SIN therefore (I hated that word in 10 grade algebra) GM= RM/Displacement*SIN Substituting: GM=1952/24,400*.01745 GM=4.58 Now, to get RM@30: RM@30=55,931 (Say 60K lb.) Am I on the right track? Probably but I would strongly encourage you to work with professional rigging specialists such as Hall Spars or Navtec. It is important that the calculations be backed up with a "reasonability check" based on what similar boats are successfully using. Another good resource would be Tom Anderson at Hathaway, Reiser and Raymond in Stamford, CT. Tom and Ben Hall both gave me a great deal of help when I re-rigged my old Cal-34. http://www.navtec.net/home/index.cfm http://www.hallspars.com/ http://www.hathaways.com/ |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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RM@30 from RM@1
There in lies the problem. The rigging was specified in rod by my designer,
John Fox but budget constraints require that I drop back to 1x19. What I got back from the companies bidding on it in 1x19 is considerably beefier. Almost 50% higher minimum load. Using an RM@30 of 60K and Larsson & Eliasson I get close to John's numbers. Gerr's rule of thumb comes out a little lighter. Haven't quite finished working up Toss's method but what I have so far is a little heavier. To throw a kink in the mix, I also got some figures from Colingo for Dynex Dux 75. Their strength figures at 20% of breaking strength come out about the same as Rod. The up weight is about 1/5 as much and with all the fittings the total price is about 20% less than 1x19. Even better I can splice 12 strand braided blindfolded. If they can convince me there will not be a problem with abrasion at the spreaders I may seriously look at synthetic rigging. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Fri, 8 Aug 2008 21:21:12 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore" wrote: Just verifying my standing rigging specs before approving my order and need someone to confirm my calculations. All the formulas I have found for standing rigging loads are based on RM@30 but all I have is RM@1. The formula for RM is RM=Displacement*GM* SIN but I don't have the metacenter height (GM) either so working backwards; RM/GM=Displacement*SIN therefore (I hated that word in 10 grade algebra) GM= RM/Displacement*SIN Substituting: GM=1952/24,400*.01745 GM=4.58 Now, to get RM@30: RM@30=55,931 (Say 60K lb.) Am I on the right track? Probably but I would strongly encourage you to work with professional rigging specialists such as Hall Spars or Navtec. It is important that the calculations be backed up with a "reasonability check" based on what similar boats are successfully using. Another good resource would be Tom Anderson at Hathaway, Reiser and Raymond in Stamford, CT. Tom and Ben Hall both gave me a great deal of help when I re-rigged my old Cal-34. http://www.navtec.net/home/index.cfm http://www.hallspars.com/ http://www.hathaways.com/ |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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RM@30 from RM@1
On Sat, 9 Aug 2008 11:52:50 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote: If they can convince me there will not be a problem with abrasion at the spreaders I may seriously look at synthetic rigging. Discontinuous rigging would eliminate the bend/chafe at the shrouds, albeit with a tradeoff in more fittings and increased tuning complexity. I went with rod rigging on my boat and never regretted it. There was no perceptible stretch even when pushing the boat hard and it is still going strong for the new owner 20 years later. Is the boat in the water ? |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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RM@30 from RM@1
Glenn Ashmore wrote:
If they can convince me there will not be a problem with abrasion at the spreaders I may seriously look at synthetic rigging. I have been thinking along similar lines for my project. If all the numbers I see are right, then it might well make sense to do all the standing rigging in synthetic rope instead of metal wire. I expect the ropes will only get better in the next few years before I actually get to start building my dream boat, not to mention rigging her... But even today, synthetic seems to be an option to consider! Does anyone here have a good reason why not? - Heikki |
#6
posted to rec.boats.building
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RM@30 from RM@1
"Heikki" wrote If they can convince me there will not be a problem with abrasion at the spreaders I may seriously look at synthetic rigging. I have been thinking along similar lines for my project. If all the numbers I see are right, then it might well make sense to do all the standing rigging in synthetic rope instead of metal wire. I expect the ropes will only get better in the next few years before I actually get to start building my dream boat, not to mention rigging her... But even today, synthetic seems to be an option to consider! Does anyone here have a good reason why not? A ****ed off machete wielding Haitian high on mushrooms was the first thing that came to my mind. :-) The Dynex rigging has been out for several years now and the reports seem to be pretty good. It does creep a little over time so deadeyes are recommended over turnbuckles to give more adjusting room. Deadeyes look a little out of place on a modern boat but it is fairly easy to resplice 12 strand with a multiple Brummel so turnbuckles would not be that much trouble. I have some 5mm Endura 12 for the double lifelines. More than three times the breaking strength as 1/8" stainless and the wire and fittings for the gates cost more than all the rest of the lifelines. Could have used 3mm but I think it would cut you in half if you fell against it. :-) -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com |
#7
posted to rec.boats.building
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RM@30 from RM@1
On Sat, 09 Aug 2008 23:09:15 +0200, Heikki wrote:
But even today, synthetic seems to be an option to consider! Does anyone here have a good reason why not? Sunlight. Ultraviolet. Casady |
#8
posted to rec.boats.building
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RM@30 from RM@1
Glenn,
I was on the verge of trading the remaining 1*19 to rod or aramid on my race boat when I was made an offer that was just too good. I had replaced the damaged backstay with spectra several seasons ago and this also got me better tension control (win-win). Rutu looks a lot like a blue water cruiser and I guess I have just been through a bit too much bad weather. I really like knowing that the rig is likely to still be standing when I can look up at it next. My problem with the synthetic fiber shrouds is that I'm still afraid of long term UV damage. I've had two spectra halyards fail. I've lost rod rigging to fatigue and notch damage (never quite to disaster - but real close). I just guess that with the problems with abrasion and UV, I would be leery of trying to use it to hold up the mast of a boat that I'm going to ask to keep me well through the storm. Watermen and their boats, they take care of each other. Matt Colie Lifelong Waterman, Licensed Mariner and Congenital Sailor Glenn Ashmore wrote: There in lies the problem. The rigging was specified in rod by my designer, John Fox but budget constraints require that I drop back to 1x19. What I got back from the companies bidding on it in 1x19 is considerably beefier. Almost 50% higher minimum load. Using an RM@30 of 60K and Larsson & Eliasson I get close to John's numbers. Gerr's rule of thumb comes out a little lighter. Haven't quite finished working up Toss's method but what I have so far is a little heavier. To throw a kink in the mix, I also got some figures from Colingo for Dynex Dux 75. Their strength figures at 20% of breaking strength come out about the same as Rod. The up weight is about 1/5 as much and with all the fittings the total price is about 20% less than 1x19. Even better I can splice 12 strand braided blindfolded. If they can convince me there will not be a problem with abrasion at the spreaders I may seriously look at synthetic rigging. |
#9
posted to rec.boats.building
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RM@30 from RM@1
I was on the verge of trading the remaining 1*19 to rod or aramid on my race boat when I was made an offer that was just too good. I had replaced the damaged backstay with spectra several seasons ago and this also got me better tension control (win-win). Rutu looks a lot like a blue water cruiser and I guess I have just been through a bit too much bad weather. I really like knowing that the rig is likely to still be standing when I can look up at it next. My problem with the synthetic fiber shrouds is that I'm still afraid of long term UV damage. I've had two spectra halyards fail. I've lost rod rigging to fatigue and notch damage (never quite to disaster - but real close). I just guess that with the problems with abrasion and UV, I would be leery of trying to use it to hold up the mast of a boat that I'm going to ask to keep me well through the storm. Until recently I was of the same mind but the more I study these synthetics the more I like them. From what I see rod and wire are designed with a safety factor of about 4:1. The Dynex Dux has to be higher than 5:1 to minimize creep. Also with steel you can't see what is going on down in that terminal socket. At least you can see all the rope and keep an eye on UV and abrasion. The one place I am worried is at the spreaders where it is hard to check. Another good point is you can easily stow a length of line and make up a new stay in a couple of hours. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com |
#10
posted to rec.boats.building
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RM@30 from RM@1
On Sat, 9 Aug 2008 19:03:21 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote: My problem with the synthetic fiber shrouds is that I'm still afraid of long term UV damage. I've had two spectra halyards fail. //// Another good point is you can easily stow a length of line and make up a new stay in a couple of hours. For me, any cruise would demand a length of shroud material that could be remade within reasonable time: galvanized, stainless, presumably synthetic? But steel with patent terminals, or swaged ferrule hard eye ends have their appeal to simplicity. Brian W |