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#1
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posted to rec.boats.building
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On Jul 21, 7:23*am, "
wrote: I'm hoping the rot is very localised. I'd get it checked with ultrasound, if the rot is extensive it needs a proper repair ASAP. cheers, Pete. |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.building
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On Jul 21, 4:23*pm, "
wrote: Hi all, * *No rush for answers on this one, but I'm sinking... I found a bit of water in the bilges and put it down to something benign, but on inspection, found a blister on the paint inside the hull, which when I burst revealed a ~2mm square hole in the hull on the bottom of the boat. I've plugged it with gaffer tape, rubber mats and bits of wood for now, but has anyone got any neat ways of fixing this without taking it out of the water (boat is a 20 tonne wrought iron/mild steel dutch barge, and a proper repair job would be ~£700)? * I'm thinking a bolt with a big rubber washer on both sides and liberal use of silicon sealant. I'm hoping the rot is very localised. cheers Jim UK Hi Jim, Blistering paint in the bilge pump is often caused by stray current which causes electrolysis corrosion. If you have these signs then chances are your boat is being effected and unless something is done about stopping or deterring the stray current the corrosion to the hull won't stop. I have found a product that can stop this altogether and can protect the boat. Go to http://www.seabis.net and you can find out the cause and effect and all about the product- Angeleika1 |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.building
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On Jul 20, 11:23 pm, "
wrote: Hi all, No rush for answers on this one, but I'm sinking... I found a bit of water in the bilges and put it down to something benign, but on inspection, found a blister on the paint inside the hull, which when I burst revealed a ~2mm square hole in the hull on the bottom of the boat. I've plugged it with gaffer tape, rubber mats and bits of wood for now, but has anyone got any neat ways of fixing this without taking it out of the water (boat is a 20 tonne wrought iron/mild steel dutch barge, and a proper repair job would be ~£700)? I'm thinking a bolt with a big rubber washer on both sides and liberal use of silicon sealant. I'm hoping the rot is very localised. cheers Jim UK is the hole on a seam might be old porosity. its about 1/16 of an inch in a 3/16ths thick hull from the sounds of the survey you got some good steel. so get a buzz box and weld the darn thing shut. get good penetration head over the side and look at it if its a good weld paint it go back on grind the weld flush on the inside and prime and paint. I assume from reading you are restoring the boat so it would make me think of needle gunning the bilge and getting some good primer and paint down. then i would not have to worry about how much rot i have, i would know. checking out your zincs would be a good idea and making sure they are welded to the hull in full contact with the steel. examining them would tell you if you have an electrolysis problem. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() Since it is just a very small hole (less than 1/8 of an inch) in mild steel hull you can just drill it out with an appropriate size drill bit and tap it to be able to screw in the correct size threaded bolt/screw to use as a plug. You have to make sure though before starting that you have all the necessary tools (drill bit, correct tap with wrench and correct size plugging screw) on hand since you have to accomplish the repair process quickly to avoid getting in too much water. After you install the plugging screw it's pretty much almost like a permanent repair and you can even weld it in place if you want. wrote in message ... Hi all, No rush for answers on this one, but I'm sinking... I found a bit of water in the bilges and put it down to something benign, but on inspection, found a blister on the paint inside the hull, which when I burst revealed a ~2mm square hole in the hull on the bottom of the boat. I've plugged it with gaffer tape, rubber mats and bits of wood for now, but has anyone got any neat ways of fixing this without taking it out of the water (boat is a 20 tonne wrought iron/mild steel dutch barge, and a proper repair job would be ~£700)? I'm thinking a bolt with a big rubber washer on both sides and liberal use of silicon sealant. I'm hoping the rot is very localised. cheers Jim UK |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() Sure, that's another good way. There are also pop rivets ("cherrymax" rivets) that are watertight just like the ones they use on aircraft hulls. With the right drill bit size, correct size rivet and a rivet installation tool the work could be accomplished real fast, even faster than my first suggested process. :-) "Andrew Butchart" wrote in message ... | There are plugs available in plumbing supply shops for patching pressure | tanks. The consist of a bolt and steel/rubber washer. The bolt has an | "arrow head" on it that you drive through the hole, give a 90 degree turn | and then tighten down. I had one on my pressure tank to fix a small hole | for 15 years until the tank rusted through in another spot. | | Andrew B | | -- | Andrew Butchart | | "P D Fritz" wrote in message | ... | | | Since it is just a very small hole (less than 1/8 of an inch) in mild | steel | hull you can just drill it out with an appropriate size drill bit and tap | it | to be able to screw in the correct size threaded bolt/screw to use as a | plug. You have to make sure though before starting that you have all the | necessary tools (drill bit, correct tap with wrench and correct size | plugging screw) on hand since you have to accomplish the repair process | quickly to avoid getting in too much water. After you install the plugging | screw it's pretty much almost like a permanent repair and you can even | weld | it in place if you want. | | wrote in message | ... | Hi all, | No rush for answers on this one, but I'm sinking... I found a bit | of water in the bilges and put it down to something benign, but on | inspection, found a blister on the paint inside the hull, which when I | burst revealed a ~2mm square hole in the hull on the bottom of the | boat. I've plugged it with gaffer tape, rubber mats and bits of wood | for now, but has anyone got any neat ways of fixing this without | taking it out of the water (boat is a 20 tonne wrought iron/mild steel | dutch barge, and a proper repair job would be ~£700)? | I'm thinking a bolt with a big rubber washer on both sides and | liberal use of silicon sealant. I'm hoping the rot is very localised. | | cheers | | Jim | UK | | | | |
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