Lew Hodgett wrote:
Somebody wrote:

"prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy.



Why solvent?

Why thin the epoxy?

UNTHINNED EPOXY IS LIKE PAINTING WITH HONEY. THINNING PROVIDES A
DEGREE OF PENETRATION, LONGER POT LIFE, AND EASY TO APPLY

If you must thin epoxy, why not denatured alcohol (5% max)

70-90% ISO ALCOHOL WORKS, BUT THE ACETONE, ETC. TYPE SOLVENTS MORE
COMMONLY USED

"patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or
thickened epoxy.

Laminating epoxy and micrro-balloons?


WORKS TOO BUT EPOXY IS HARDER TO SAND...

It makes great fairing putty.

Now prime the entire hull with more solvent
thinned epoxy.

Why?

BECAUSE HULL IS SUN DAMAGED WEATHERED GLASS. A THIN COAT OF EPOXY
MAKES A FRESH BONDING SURFACE FOR ANY TOPCOAT OF PAINT. ALSO SEALS
THE PATCH SPOTS. ALSO IF SKIP THIS STEP THE PAINT OVER THE
PATCHES MAY HAVE A DIFFERENT LEVEL OF GLOSS

That's why "high build primer" exists.

AGAIN, NOT FOR BUILD BUT FOR BONDING. EPOXIES ARE GENERALLY THE
BEST OF PRIMERS....

A gallon kit should cover the entire canoe at least two (2) coats..

Then paint with a quart of enamel from the hardware store.


WE ALSO SELL HIGH END COMMERCIAL ENAMELS AND 2 PART LPU POLYS, BUT
ON A PROJECT LIKE THIS HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL IS FINE.


NOTE: I ONCE HAD A BUSINESS ASSOCIATED WHO WAS PLANT MANAGER AT
GIANT PAINT COMPANY. PAINT BATCHES WERE 10,000 GALLONS. PART OF IT
SOLD IN 5 GAL UNITS FOR CONTRACTORS. LAST FEW GALLONS PACKED AND
PRICE FOR THE MARINE MARKET. THAT SAID, OUR INDUSTRIAL ENAMEL IS
MUCH BETTER IN TESTING THAN THE HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL. HOWEVER,
FOR I USE THE HARDWARE STORE STUFF ANYWAY.

ANOTHER OPTION IS 'CHEAP' ENAMEL AND A 2 PART POLY CLEAR COAT OVER
IT. THE CLEAR IS EASIER THAN THE PIGMENTED STUFF (MISTAKES DON'T
SHOW) AND A LOT CHEAPER.


PAUL
PROGRESSIVE EPOXY

A one part marine enamel compatible with the high build primer isn't
going to break the bank.

After investing all your time, what is the incentive to cut corners
and maybe save $10-$20?.

Lew

"Paul Oman" wrote:

UNTHINNED EPOXY IS LIKE PAINTING WITH HONEY. THINNING PROVIDES A DEGREE OF
PENETRATION, LONGER POT LIFE, AND EASY TO APPLY

Maybe where you get you're epoxy it's the consistancy of congealed snot, but
my supplier put enough diluant in his laminating epoxy so that it easily
wets out the glass.

70-90% ISO ALCOHOL WORKS, BUT THE ACETONE, ETC. TYPE SOLVENTS MORE
COMMONLY USED

Since laminating epoxy doesn't contain any VOCs in the first place, why
introduce them when denatured alcohol works just fine and doesn't alter the
finished material?

WORKS TOO BUT EPOXY IS HARDER TO SAND...

Than what, fairing putty?

Why?

BECAUSE HULL IS SUN DAMAGED WEATHERED GLASS. A THIN COAT OF EPOXY MAKES A
FRESH BONDING SURFACE FOR ANY TOPCOAT OF PAINT. ALSO SEALS THE PATCH
SPOTS. ALSO IF SKIP THIS STEP THE PAINT OVER THE PATCHES MAY HAVE A
DIFFERENT LEVEL OF GLOSS

Again, that's why high build primer exists.


AGAIN, NOT FOR BUILD BUT FOR BONDING. EPOXIES ARE GENERALLY THE BEST OF
PRIMERS....

Huh?

Why do you think high build primer exists?


WE ALSO SELL HIGH END COMMERCIAL ENAMELS AND 2 PART LPU POLYS, BUT ON A
PROJECT LIKE THIS HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL IS FINE.

Guess I value my time more than you do.

What ever floats your boat.

Lew

PS: The coatings industry, both architectural and industrial, are also one
of my major customers of mine. That and $5 will get you a cup of coffee in a
cheap restaurant.