Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]()
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I run an Isolation transformer and I use an air starter.
Steve "Andina Marie" wrote in message ... On Jan 6, 6:06 am, "Steve Lusardi" wrote: Andina, I found your synopsis of this issue very good. This problem is not understood by most people. Please explain what a Galvanic Isolator is. I find absolutely no reason to connect shore earth to your boat, ever. There should be a ships earth and it should never be the hull, either on the AC side or the DC side. The ships earth should be isolated from the hull. There should be an LED mounted in an obvious location connected between the hull and ships earth. Normally this LED would be off, unless there is a DC leak to the hull. This would then allow the LED to turn on and alert the crew to locate the fault immediately. On the AC side, an isolation transformer is a necessity. The ships safety earth is then bonded to neutral at the panel only and the main ships ckt breaker should be of the GFI type. Steve REPLY from ANDINA. A Galvanic isolator consists of back to back diodes which still provide an electrical path for AC current but block DC voltages up to about 1 volt. So the ground protection for electrical faults is retained but the small DC voltages that cause electrolysis are blocked. ABYC specifications require that the Galvanic Isolator be able to carry 130% of rated current continuously. This is required because if an appliance on a boat was wired incorrectly and using the ground instead of the neutral, the total current would be flowing through the isolator. Should the isolator then fail under load, the AC would now be connected directly to the ground that has become disconnected from the shore ground. This puts 120 volts AC on all the underwater items on your boat which can KILL SWIMMERS IN THE VICINITY. Your statement that:- I find absolutely no reason to connect shore earth to your boat, ever. is very dangerous without explanation. Omitting this connection can kill people. On most boats you cannot isolate the DC ground from the underwater metal because the starter motor is bolted to the engine block which in turn connects to the propeller shaft and the water. So without the ground, an internal failure of the battery charger could put 120 or 230 volts AC on your DC ground and into the water. Relying on indicators or alarms is not a satisfactory solution, it only takes milliseconds to kill someone. Relying on a GFI Circuit breaker is not satisfactory. In salt water the current flowing though a GFIC can kill a swimmer before the GFIC can trip. Now I agree that the probability of these worst case scenarios is remote, however the consequences are grim. The ABYC specifications err on the conservative side to avoid leaving the risk/consequence decision up to the boat owner. If using an isolation transformer the risk is miniscule. Isolation transformers are extremely reliable, the only risk would be an uninformed installer making an error in wiring up equipment. Without the isolation transformer and with no ground you are betting the reliability of your equipment against the life of swimmers in the vicinity of your boat. Regards, Ann-Marie Foster, |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
researching live-aboard cruising boats | Cruising | |||
researching live-aboard cruising boats | General | |||
C-Dory and rough water boats | General | |||
water pickup for washdown&live well | General | |||
Salt water and Fibreglass Boats | General |