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Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 09:58:49 GMT, "brian c"
wrote: when I needed a new tiller someone suggested using a pick axe handle. well it has worked fine with pickaxe for about three years now.just thought I`d let you all know Bri When my fork and pin tiller gave up the ghost, I laminated in new hardwood materials to make the tiller a yoke and pin. I.e. a hole for the rudder post surrounded completely by wood. A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon. Thanks Brian W |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote: A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon. Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks. Casady |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
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Why a laminated tiller handle?
they cost about £5 in the UK
Bri "Richard Casady" wrote in message ... On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott wrote: A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon. Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks. Casady |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
wrote West Wight sells a replacement tiller for $55. That seems extremely reasonable. http://www.westwightpotter.com/conte....phtml?0/0/199 You can't even think about making a replacement for that price. Lew |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
Hey people,
Didn't we just go over this subject a couple of weeks ago?? Or was that another 'forum' ?? Anyhow, if you don't like the 'stock' Potter tiller, there are at least 4 other sellers out there, with prices ranging from about $50 to about $100. I was thinking of making one for the P15 I'm refurbishing. The present 'tiller' looks like a length of '2x4' that was cut to an 'approximate shape' & painted brown !! While it worked for the past owner, it no-way suite my 'sensibilities'. I was thinking of making one myself {not really hard, just time consuming}, but the afore mentioned prices are making me re-think THIS part of the project. Regards, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop wrote "Lew Hodgett" wrote: West Wight sells a replacement tiller for $55. That seems extremely reasonable. http://www.westwightpotter.com/conte....phtml?0/0/199 You can't even think about making a replacement for that price. Lew AMEN! |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Sep 7, 5:02 pm, "Toller" wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think it will have to be replaced in the long run. It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.) With respect to the other posters, and I have not read all the posts. I can relate my experience. I laminated 5 pieces of 6mm Occoume with 4 0z. tight weave fiberglass and Epoxy in between layers. I am sure it is still strong as hell, but it did have more flex than I would have liked. The guy I made it for was thrilled though. Carry on, sorry if this has already been noted. |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 11:27:31 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote: On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:34:39 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott wrote: A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon. Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks. Casady Under $20 for hickory if I recall.... Brian W The figure I gave is for a regular Louisville Slugger major league professional bat. I couldn't believe it. Now the ash looks to be going the way of the chestnut and elm. I am sure hickory would make an acceptable bat. Casady |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 21:02:11 GMT, "Toller" wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think it will have to be replaced in the long run. It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.) If you really need the curves, perhaps you could steam bend the piece of oak. Casady |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
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