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Why a laminated tiller handle?
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a
few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think it will have to be replaced in the long run. It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.) |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Sep 7, 2:02 pm, "Toller" wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think it will have to be replaced in the long run. It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.) I'm not sure about the curve but making it a laminate will allow you to vary the grain pattern so that if and when it begins to warp it will pull against itself and stay relatively straighter. You would want to keep the grain going long ways but because it is still in a circular pattern you flip one board over as compared to the previous. I am sorry about the bad description on this. Someone else may have a better one or even some wort of diagram to show you. |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
"Bill" wrote in message oups.com... On Sep 7, 2:02 pm, "Toller" wrote: The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think it will have to be replaced in the long run. It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.) I'm not sure about the curve but making it a laminate will allow you to vary the grain pattern so that if and when it begins to warp it will pull against itself and stay relatively straighter. You would want to keep the grain going long ways but because it is still in a circular pattern you flip one board over as compared to the previous. I am sorry about the bad description on this. Someone else may have a better one or even some wort of diagram to show you. White oak is pretty stable, and this piece is about 40 years old. I hope it will not warp, at least not much. But it wouldn't be all that much work to cut it up and glue it back together, reversing the pieces, if that will give better results. Hopefully it won't delaminate like the current one. |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
Depending on the cockpit's configuration a curve tiller is preferred.
Laminated teller with two part epoxy is better for strength and allow for pattern variation like one or two layers of white hard wood with one layer of dark wood. On my previous boat I made a spare tiller with one piece solid ash and had no problem. When you make a tiller you have to make sure that the holes are drilled perpendicular and in line with the metal holding part mounted on the rudder. When push comes to shove one of two fibreglass laminated hockey stick will get you out of trouble. This is more true on smaller sailboat. The Potter 15 is a nicely configured boat. If you have the time and facility I would go for laminated ash and holly wood ( or their equivalent) tiller with two parts epoxy. You can use the old tiller as a template. "Toller" wrote in message ... The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think it will have to be replaced in the long run. It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.) |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
"Toller" wrote: The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think it will have to be replaced in the long run. It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Yes, but it will look like ugly on an ape, and may not provide needed clearances. Is there anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? Yes. Strength, appearance and resistance to warping. I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? Save that piece of white oak. Get some Hondourous Mahogany and some Ash, and some epoxy. Rip 1/4" thick strips. Build a laminating jig. Have fun. Lew |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
Toller wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, Not a good choice. ______________ It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the rudder stock. Or lower, depending. ______________ Can I make the new one straight? Yes _______________ Is there any compelling reason it has to be laminated? Compelling, no. _________________ I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? It will work fine. It will be rather heavy though. Mine is oak, made of several pieces. The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between them. Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece. ________________ (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, It would. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Sep 8, 7:46 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Toller wrote: The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, Not a good choice. ______________ It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the rudder stock. Or lower, depending. ______________ Can I make the new one straight? Yes _______________ Is there any compelling reason it has to be laminated? Compelling, no. _________________ I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? It will work fine. It will be rather heavy though. Mine is oak, made of several pieces. The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between them. Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece. ________________ (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, It would. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico When it totally delaminates and some layers rot, cut out the rotten layers. Use your table saw to cut thin strips to replace them with. Glue it up with epoxy and it is as good as new. Worked for me. |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
Toller,
Over the past 35 years, I have had to reglue my tiller twice. I have since given it several coats of varnish and keep a cover on it when not sailing. I believe the reason for the 'S' shape is to keep the tiller out of the way of your legs when you are standing close to the rudder post. Solid wood will warp in marine environment, as I discovered recently when I replaced my laminated benches with solid wood. Sherwin D. Toller wrote: The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think it will have to be replaced in the long run. It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.) |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
when I needed a new tiller someone suggested using a pick axe handle. well
it has worked fine with pickaxe for about three years now.just thought I`d let you all know Bri "dadiOH" wrote in message news:gYvEi.509$282.86@trnddc01... Toller wrote: The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, Not a good choice. ______________ It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the rudder stock. Or lower, depending. ______________ Can I make the new one straight? Yes _______________ Is there any compelling reason it has to be laminated? Compelling, no. _________________ I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? It will work fine. It will be rather heavy though. Mine is oak, made of several pieces. The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between them. Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece. ________________ (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, It would. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
I guess the reason most tillers are shapely is to keep the tiller from
looking like an ugly stick. Ash is often used for tillers more than oak. |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 09:58:49 GMT, "brian c"
wrote: when I needed a new tiller someone suggested using a pick axe handle. well it has worked fine with pickaxe for about three years now.just thought I`d let you all know Bri When my fork and pin tiller gave up the ghost, I laminated in new hardwood materials to make the tiller a yoke and pin. I.e. a hole for the rudder post surrounded completely by wood. A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon. Thanks Brian W |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote: A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon. Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks. Casady |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
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Why a laminated tiller handle?
they cost about £5 in the UK
Bri "Richard Casady" wrote in message ... On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott wrote: A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon. Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks. Casady |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
wrote West Wight sells a replacement tiller for $55. That seems extremely reasonable. http://www.westwightpotter.com/conte....phtml?0/0/199 You can't even think about making a replacement for that price. Lew |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
Hey people,
Didn't we just go over this subject a couple of weeks ago?? Or was that another 'forum' ?? Anyhow, if you don't like the 'stock' Potter tiller, there are at least 4 other sellers out there, with prices ranging from about $50 to about $100. I was thinking of making one for the P15 I'm refurbishing. The present 'tiller' looks like a length of '2x4' that was cut to an 'approximate shape' & painted brown !! While it worked for the past owner, it no-way suite my 'sensibilities'. I was thinking of making one myself {not really hard, just time consuming}, but the afore mentioned prices are making me re-think THIS part of the project. Regards, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop wrote "Lew Hodgett" wrote: West Wight sells a replacement tiller for $55. That seems extremely reasonable. http://www.westwightpotter.com/conte....phtml?0/0/199 You can't even think about making a replacement for that price. Lew AMEN! |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Sep 7, 5:02 pm, "Toller" wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think it will have to be replaced in the long run. It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.) With respect to the other posters, and I have not read all the posts. I can relate my experience. I laminated 5 pieces of 6mm Occoume with 4 0z. tight weave fiberglass and Epoxy in between layers. I am sure it is still strong as hell, but it did have more flex than I would have liked. The guy I made it for was thrilled though. Carry on, sorry if this has already been noted. |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 11:27:31 -0500, Brian Whatcott
wrote: On Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:34:39 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 13:05:28 -0500, Brian Whatcott wrote: A pick axe handle is usually specified to use the toughest wood available and would be a very suitable basis, I reckon. Wonder what they cost? Ash baseball bats cost about a hundred bucks. Casady Under $20 for hickory if I recall.... Brian W The figure I gave is for a regular Louisville Slugger major league professional bat. I couldn't believe it. Now the ash looks to be going the way of the chestnut and elm. I am sure hickory would make an acceptable bat. Casady |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 21:02:11 GMT, "Toller" wrote:
The rudder/tiller on my Potter 15 is disintigrating, so I will be asking a few questions on rebuilding it in the next few weeks. The tiller handle is laminated wood, in a very slight S curve. It has delaminated; and while I am now gluing it up with polyurethane glue, I think it will have to be replaced in the long run. It doesn't go over or under anything, so I don't see that the S curve is for anything but maybe style. Can I make the new one straight? Is there anycompelling reason it has to be laminated? I have a nice piece of very old white oak I can use to cut a new one; will a solid white oak tiller handle be inappropriate for any reason? Thanks. (I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would be easy enough, but I think it will weaken the handle, unless there is a good reason for the curve.) If you really need the curves, perhaps you could steam bend the piece of oak. Casady |
Why a laminated tiller handle?
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