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#11
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On Aug 23, 3:07 pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
OK. You build the hard bimini on the ground, then put it in place with a crane since it will be about 12 ft x 12 ft, maybe more, and weigh 250-300 lbs. It will be totally self supporting requiring only some 2" pipe posts in the corner to support it. It will be totally clear underneath, part of the beauty of foam core construction. You will probably have to raise the boom about 12" and recut the main, especially when you include the solar panels. Get a copy of Fred Bingham's book, Practical Yacht Joinery. It has a lot of info that will be useful for this project. You will need a roll of 17OZ double bias glass (Knytex DB170), probably about 6 sheets of 3/4" Divinycell, a 500 lb drum (55 gal) of laminating epoxy and a couple of 5 gal pails of hardener. You will also need a couple of 30 lb bags of Dic-A-Perl, HP500, to make fairing putty. As far as the front "windows" are concerned, have to think about that a while. This is a simple, straight forward process, but a hell of a lot of hard work Are you sure you want to open up this can of worms? Lew If you want to scare me off, tell me about the itch of fiberglass, I dread it.. I think I'll adjust the dodger downward rather then adjust the boom upward. It's a tall dodger now, so there is room for adjustment. I was imagining that it would be built in place, is that a bad idea? My boom and six dock apes should hold 350 pounds, but will use a crane if we have to. I'm surprised at the amount of epoxy needed. Thanks for the warning. -Koos. |
#12
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() If you want to scare me off, tell me about the itch of fiberglass, I dread it.. I understand. I think I'll adjust the dodger downward rather then adjust the boom upward. It's a tall dodger now, so there is room for adjustment. It's your call, but you need at about 6'-8" standing room as a basic design goal. Might trim an inch or even two, but that is cutting it close. I was imagining that it would be built in place, is that a bad idea? YES, bad idea. Trying to work while up in the air as oppossed to standing on the ground. Sanding dust and excess resin dripping on the boat raather than on the ground. Want me to go on? My boom and six dock apes should hold 350 pounds, but will use a crane if we have to. In this application, the boom just gets in the way. A crane doesn't get an itch. A crane doesn't loose it's grip. A crane doesn't get distracted by a pretty girl. Want me to go on? I'm surprised at the amount of epoxy needed. Thanks for the warning. Do the calculation yourself. Use 17 OZ/sq yard per layer of glass. Lets say 3 layers of glass per skin or 6 layers for both skins or 102 OZ/sq yard of bimini. 102/9 = 11.33 OZ/sq ft or 102/9/16 = 0.708 or 0.71 lbs/sq ft. Assume the epoxy weight = glass weight + 20% for drips, waste, etc 120%*0.71=0.85lbs/sq ft of bimini If you add a 4th layer of glass, add 34%. If you have 150 sq ft of bimini, you could get by with 150 lbs of epoxy which would be about 4, 5 gal pails. By the time you buy 4 pails, you are probably 75%-80% of a drum price. That's why I suggested a drum, you can always find some good use for a half a drum of resinG. Lew |
#13
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Thanks for the details Lew.
I ordered that book you mentioned (already have his "simplified" book). -Koos. |
#14
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() wrote Thanks for the details Lew. I ordered that book you mentioned (already have his "simplified" book). Take a look at how cambers are laid out, that will be your starting place. Lew |
#15
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posted to rec.boats.building
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I must be missing something here. A dodger is just a roof. Why all the
epoxy and glass? I wouldn't use any glass and just use wood and epoxy for sealing. You should be able to build it in place and wood is alot easier to work with than glass. Either paint it or leave it natural. Bob On Aug 23, 11:03 am, wrote: Thanks to everyone for the replies to my prior questions about epoxy and fiberglass (discounting the use of polyester). You help and experience is appreciated. I'm planning to build a dodger for my sailboat, still researching and discovering.. After photographing hundreds of hard dodgers, and studying them carefully, I know that hard angular corners will not look good on my boat. I need to round the edges/corners to match the rest of the boat. What techniques should I research for changing the hard corners where two ply surfaces connect? How do I shape those round edges smoothly to have a professional looking curve? Plywood seems to be a good core for the large surfaces. I may use two or three 1/4 ply layers glued with epoxy. 1/4 inch ply will allow some curve to the sides and top, and having multiple layers will provide strength. This is a 50 foot boat, so 1/2 to 3/4 inch thickness would not look too flimsy, and the boat can accommodate the weight. My question at this time is how do you make a smooth tidy round corner where the sides and top meet, and where the sides and the front of the dodger meet. It seems that connecting the ply large surfaces together would add structural strength, but that would cause a hard angular appearance. Thanks for your input, (and please forgive my lack of experience). -Koos. |
#16
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() wrote: I must be missing something here. A dodger is just a roof. Why all the epoxy and glass? I wouldn't use any glass and just use wood and epoxy for sealing. You should be able to build it in place and wood is alot easier to work with than glass. Either paint it or leave it natural. This is going to be a large, say 12x12 rigid dinghy that will support a solar panel farm. Wood is heavy, wood will rot, and wood is weak when compared to a foam core complete with knitted glass and epoxy skins. The above structure would add a lot of weight high above the water line if made of wood. Just for reference, a 4x8x1/2 sheet of plywood weighs about 42#, while a 4x8x3/4 sheet of Divinycell weighs about 16#-17#. Lew |
#17
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posted to rec.boats.building
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On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:21:58 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote stuff and I replied: This is going to be a large, say 12x12 rigid dinghy that will support a solar panel farm. Wood is heavy, wood will rot, and wood is weak when compared to a foam core complete with knitted glass and epoxy skins. Canoes and Kayakers will disagree. I had this discussion with one of the SNGlue/Strip kayakers, and they were very strong about wood vs foam....either snglue or strip. However, I have to admit that if the result is stiffness, noit inpact strength, then fioam wins at a given weight. The above structure would add a lot of weight high above the water line if made of wood. But not if made of wood (strip or sng ply) with the same skins or less (agaon local impact strength) Just for reference, a 4x8x1/2 sheet of plywood weighs about 42#, while a 4x8x3/4 sheet of Divinycell weighs about 16#-17#. For this purpose you need quite thin ply...1/4 or 3/8, and then less glass or WHY because it's better for puncture. Moot point. Just presenting the other POV. In my time I have tried both, and find it hard to really fight one way or the other. Lew Human bevaviour: Bestiality with a brain |
#18
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Lew Hodgett wrote:
wrote: I must be missing something here. A dodger is just a roof. Why all the epoxy and glass? I wouldn't use any glass and just use wood and epoxy for sealing. You should be able to build it in place and wood is alot easier to work with than glass. Either paint it or leave it natural. This is going to be a large, say 12x12 rigid dinghy that will support a solar panel farm. Wood is heavy, wood will rot, and wood is weak when compared to a foam core complete with knitted glass and epoxy skins. The above structure would add a lot of weight high above the water line if made of wood. Just for reference, a 4x8x1/2 sheet of plywood weighs about 42#, while a 4x8x3/4 sheet of Divinycell weighs about 16#-17#. Lew That's for the foam panels only. Add the glass and epoxy and it will be nearer 43 pounds ![]() |
#19
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posted to rec.boats.building
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![]() "cavelamb himself" wrote: That's for the foam panels only. Add the glass and epoxy and it will be nearer 43 pounds ![]() The total weight is a function of the number of layers of glass in the skins, so the total weight probably exceeds 43#, but did you bother to calculate the stiffness of the foam/glass sandwich which is what truly drives the design? Lew |
#20
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posted to rec.boats.building
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coming back to this subject....
Hard Dodger story at SailNet http://www.sailnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37194 |
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