Sorry I forgot to add the link

http://www.rotdoctor.com/boat/Bmain.html

I "rescued" a 1960 Owens using epoxy, and new lumber bent,cut, and
tapered to fit. The Owens is a double planked vessel, and fortunately
for me the inner planking was perfectly dry, After I scrubbed the
engineroom with a solution of oileater, I found the planking sound.
The only reason I am stikin' my nose in here is I found a green
coating that I believe was Sherman William's Cupernol. It had done
yeoman service keeping the inner hull sterile. Don't know if it is
still on the market ot not.
Enjoy
Den


"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats." -- Kenneth Grahame
www.densnet.com

Two thoughts that may even be related:

1. one of the folks at one the marinas I dive at has done a lot of
fiberglass work as a job. He said that the Git Rot product penetrates the
wood even when wet and drives the water out. He really liked the product.

2. When I was looking at the CPES I talked with one of the chemists at
System 3. He said that their low viscosity product penetrates as well or
better and provides about 3 times the coverage (perhaps the name of the
company?) because it is not thinned with solvents. I am aware that he
wanted to sell the product but it is something to think about.

Brian

On Jul 3, 8:58 am, "Brian" wrote:
Two thoughts that may even be related:

1. one of the folks at one the marinas I dive at has done a lot of
fiberglass work as a job. He said that the Git Rot product penetrates the
wood even when wet and drives the water out. He really liked the product.

2. When I was looking at the CPES I talked with one of the chemists at
System 3. He said that their low viscosity product penetrates as well or
better and provides about 3 times the coverage (perhaps the name of the
company?) because it is not thinned with solvents. I am aware that he
wanted to sell the product but it is something to think about.

Brian


I have met a half a dozen people that have told me horror stories of
doing CPES on the inside of their hull. I know my post was long, so to
condense it, Use the Boric Acid/Glycol solution first to kill any
spores that are or will be present. Seal the boric acid in with a
linseed oil compound that includes a biocide to keep mold from eating
it. I also added two hatches in the sole of the boat, in the saloon,
to keep it properly ventilated. This has been lots of work, but I am
hoping I have kept this 1949 boat working for another 30 years. Also,
this is the least toxic to humans that I could find.
I am going to try a bit of Tar heated to thin it, along the keel
strake. A boat restorer in Stewart Florida told me about this. He
restores old Trumpy's.

Now, when you find an old wooden boat with the battens curled up away
from the hull, how do you folks put them back? I cut kerfs in many
places and then clamped it back and glued it. Now that the glue has
set up I was going to epoxy that batten into the kerfs so that rot
will not set in. Any other methods out there? These battens are an
inch thick. Steaming them in place? I can't picture how to do that!

On Jul 4, 10:55 pm, tomdownard
wrote:
On Jul 3, 8:58 am, "Brian" wrote:

Two thoughts that may even be related:

1. one of the folks at one the marinas I dive at has done a lot of
fiberglass work as a job. He said that the Git Rot product penetrates the
wood even when wet and drives the water out. He really liked the product.

2. When I was looking at the CPES I talked with one of the chemists at
System 3. He said that their low viscosity product penetrates as well or
better and provides about 3 times the coverage (perhaps the name of the
company?) because it is not thinned with solvents. I am aware that he
wanted to sell the product but it is something to think about.

Brian

I have met a half a dozen people that have told me horror stories of
doing CPES on the inside of their hull. I know my post was long, so to
condense it, Use the Boric Acid/Glycol solution first to kill any
spores that are or will be present. Seal the boric acid in with a
linseed oil compound that includes a biocide to keep mold from eating
it. I also added two hatches in the sole of the boat, in the saloon,
to keep it properly ventilated. This has been lots of work, but I am
hoping I have kept this 1949 boat working for another 30 years. Also,
this is the least toxic to humans that I could find.
I am going to try a bit of Tar heated to thin it, along the keel
strake. A boat restorer in Stewart Florida told me about this. He
restores old Trumpy's.

Now, when you find an old wooden boat with the battens curled up away
from the hull, how do you folks put them back? I cut kerfs in many
places and then clamped it back and glued it. Now that the glue has
set up I was going to epoxy that batten into the kerfs so that rot
will not set in. Any other methods out there? These battens are an
inch thick. Steaming them in place? I can't picture how to do that!

Also, I just gave you the formula for Getrot, and any other Boric Acid
type rot killer. They give Boric Acid the longer name of Disodium
Octaborate Tetrahydrate. I watched a show on TV where people were
signing to stop the spread of Di Hydrogen Oxygen (bad speller), which
is water. Does this forum have a spellcheck?

On Jul 3, 8:58 am, "Brian" wrote:
Two thoughts that may even be related:

1. one of the folks at one the marinas I dive at has done a lot of
fiberglass work as a job. He said that the Git Rot product penetrates the
wood even when wet and drives the water out. He really liked the product.

2. When I was looking at the CPES I talked with one of the chemists at
System 3. He said that their low viscosity product penetrates as well or
better and provides about 3 times the coverage (perhaps the name of the
company?) because it is not thinned with solvents. I am aware that he
wanted to sell the product but it is something to think about.

Brian

Brian, GetRot is from their MSDS sheet is just Boric Acid with some
kind of vehicle to get it into the wood. That is exactly what I make
on the stove. Cheaper too, as Boric Acid costs $3 a lb. The trouble
with Boric Acid/Glycol solutions is that they leach back out. Thus a
sealer of Linseed Oil. But the bugs like Linseed Oil so I am getting
some packets of anti fungus from the paint store to mix in. Also I
have heard that the paint store sells an emulsifyer (makes oil and
water mix) so I can put the Boric Acid into boiling water and then
introduce it into the Linseed Oil. I have more time than money you
see.