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Scantlings for stitch and glue spritsail skiff, 20'
I'm looking to build a 20' v-bottom spritsail skiff, using stitch and
glue. Pretty much straight from the NC Maritime Museum plan #5: http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._1952_13462941 This will be an open boat - structure will include short deck at the bow (a foot or two long), with a bulkhead at the aft end of it; a thwart at the mast, centerboard trunk, thwart at aft end of trunk, and thwart in rear, in front of removable sternsheets. No side decking, just a strong rail/gunwale. I will probably make gussets on either side of each thwart, extending from rail to chine, and box in under the thwarts (flotation filled). As per the traditional skiff, there will be a relatively heavy deadwood starting at the aft end of the centerboard trunk and extending to the rudder. No keelson forward, probably a minimal one aft to bolt the deadwood through to. I will epoxy/glass the exterior, and possibly glass the interior too (haven't decided yet). Ply will be Okoume BS1088. I'd like to make this boat as light as possible for maximum speed; it will be basically a toy for the Beaufort NC area, Bogue Sound, etc. I'd like it to be as stiff as possible for maximum performance, moreso than for great seaworthiness. Note the rig will be a bit taller than that shown in the plans; the norm for the museum built boats has been 15' or so mast height, vs. the 12' spec'd for the workboat in the plans. So my question is, what thickness plywood should I use? The original boats were planked with 7/8" juniper, with quite a few frames holding the planks in place. With S&G I will have no frames, other than the aforementioned structure. I was leaning toward 3/8" for bottom and side panels, but am wondering if I should make the bottom panel 1/2" just to stiffen things up, and for walking around on (hoping to get away without any floorboards). Any opinions? Thanks in advance, NSS |
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