I recently saw how my buddy repainted the sides of his boat with a white
fiberglass
paint, using a brush. It did not look half bad from afar, but up close, you
could see
the brush strokes. Can this paint go on smoother with a spraying application,
and
will it look almost professionally done? I suppose you need a compressor to
spray
paint and do lots of masking off of the bright work and wood trim. This is for
my
topsides where I also have some gray non-skid areas. I assume you can paint
those
separately and being a flat finish, don't require as much care in application.

Sherwin D.

Sure, it's done all the time. You can spray, or use a technique known
as "roll and tip". Look at Awlgrip's information, or Fabula's boat
paint.
http://www.fabulainc.com/index.php?t...gnature+Finish

The two most popular types of paint used on boat topsides are alkyd and
linear polyurethane.

The alkyd paints are similar to the oil paints we've used forever. Some of
their names are misleading and confusing. Easypoxy and Brightsides and
Toplac polyurethane are basically alkyd paints. Alkyd paints are one-part
paints,it's a question of how are easy to apply and can have high gloss,
but they don't weather or tolerate scuffs particularly well. They can be
applied by brush, roll & tip or spray.

The linear polyurethane (LPU) paints are all two-part paints. Brand names
include Interlux Perfection, Awlgrip and Imron. These paints are more
expensive, require better surface preparation and are more difficult to
apply than alkyd paints but they are tougher and weather much better. They
can also be applied by brush, roll&tip and spray, but SPRAYING LPU PAINT IS
UNSAFE WITHOUT SPECIALIZED RESPIRATOR EQUIPMENT. An amateur can get very
good results with roll&tip methods.

Occasionally someone will recommend other paints. Epoxy paint, marketed for
garage floors, is tough but does not weather well. Acrylic latex (house
paint) weathers well but has very low gloss and does not tolerate scuffs
well.

So, as a practical matter, the choice of a paint system depends on how fine
a finish you want, how roughly the boat will be used and whether it'll be
exposed to the weather for months or years on end. The LPU paints are a
good choice if you want a fine and lasting finish, are willing to pay for it
in more materials and labor, store the boat outdoors and don't use the boat
so roughly that an annual repaint is unavoidable. Otherwise, use alkyd.




"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
I recently saw how my buddy repainted the sides of his boat with a white
fiberglass
paint, using a brush. It did not look half bad from afar, but up close,
you
could see
the brush strokes. Can this paint go on smoother with a spraying
application,
and
will it look almost professionally done? I suppose you need a compressor
to
spray
paint and do lots of masking off of the bright work and wood trim. This
is for
my
topsides where I also have some gray non-skid areas. I assume you can
paint
those
separately and being a flat finish, don't require as much care in
application.

Sherwin D.

Jim Conlin wrote:

The two most popular types of paint used on boat topsides are alkyd and
linear polyurethane.

The alkyd paints are similar to the oil paints we've used forever. Some of
their names are misleading and confusing. Easypoxy and Brightsides and
Toplac polyurethane are basically alkyd paints. Alkyd paints are one-part
paints,it's a question of how are easy to apply and can have high gloss,
but they don't weather or tolerate scuffs particularly well. They can be
applied by brush, roll & tip or spray.

The linear polyurethane (LPU) paints are all two-part paints. Brand names
include Interlux Perfection, Awlgrip and Imron. These paints are more
expensive, require better surface preparation and are more difficult to
apply than alkyd paints but they are tougher and weather much better. They
can also be applied by brush, roll&tip and spray, but SPRAYING LPU PAINT IS
UNSAFE WITHOUT SPECIALIZED RESPIRATOR EQUIPMENT. An amateur can get very
good results with roll&tip methods.

Occasionally someone will recommend other paints. Epoxy paint, marketed for
garage floors, is tough but does not weather well. Acrylic latex (house
paint) weathers well but has very low gloss and does not tolerate scuffs
well.

So, as a practical matter, the choice of a paint system depends on how fine
a finish you want, how roughly the boat will be used and whether it'll be
exposed to the weather for months or years on end. The LPU paints are a
good choice if you want a fine and lasting finish, are willing to pay for it
in more materials and labor, store the boat outdoors and don't use the boat
so roughly that an annual repaint is unavoidable. Otherwise, use alkyd.




------------------------------------------------

google LPU coatings
there are two kinds - acrylic polys and polyester polys - you should
know the difference.

I think the cheapest 2 part polyester poly is probably about $155 for
1.5 gallons.......

Also, 2 part polys REALLY like a primer coat - often a solvent thinned
epoxy, but doesn't have to be.


another option is a cheap enamel pigmented coat and a clear 2 part poly
topcoat - a lot like a car, and generally cheaper and easier to do as
the tricky issues with the 2 part polys are more hidden when using a
clear 2 part poly (which are also much cheaper).


I use a lot of hardware store enamels on my fleet of kayaks and
dinghies, but the medium oil commercial enamels (about $60 a gallon) are
much better than the 'crap' sold at the hardware stores. I suspect
(but don't know) that the $$$ so called marine enamels are on par with
the commercial enamels.

Another issue could be the VOC regulations in your area. These products
have lots of solvent in them and may not be sold or used in certain
states (I think some are being sold illegally - but no VOC police to
crack down)

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers

------------------------------------------------



"sherwindu" wrote in message
...


I recently saw how my buddy repainted the sides of his boat with a white
fiberglass
paint, using a brush. It did not look half bad from afar, but up close,


you


could see
the brush strokes. Can this paint go on smoother with a spraying


application,


and
will it look almost professionally done? I suppose you need a compressor


to


spray
paint and do lots of masking off of the bright work and wood trim. This


is for


my
topsides where I also have some gray non-skid areas. I assume you can


paint


those
separately and being a flat finish, don't require as much care in


application.


Sherwin D.