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plastic barrels and floating docks
I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the
wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks |
plastic barrels and floating docks
On Apr 19, 10:48 am, mark wrote:
I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks In my opinion and experience, they will be unstable and want to roll. They will almost certainly be more stable upside down than rightside up. Most floating docks have one or more finger docks, which are the narrow parts. If they're connected to each other perpendicularily, this'll keep them from rolling. Putting a third barrel in the center is only useful if you don't have enough floatation. It won't make it any more stable. Probably the opposite. You don't have to buy "floating dock hardware" to connect them together. Just get your local metal shop to weld up some heavy hinges (2 per junction) with a removable axis pin. Get everything hot dip galvanized. -Maxime Camirand |
plastic barrels and floating docks
I do not know your location and what waves and tides actions you have.
If you are inland and you are looking to build floating docks on the cheap to last for a year or so with ease of handling your approach could serve you on a short term basis. About using used plastic barrels, check where they coming from and what were they containing. I had to give up the idea of using plastic barrels because they had been used for the transport of toxic chemical. With today's environnemental bylaws it would be safer to check with the proper authorities. The following suggestions are subject to you area and waterway regulations. In some location the design will have to be much stronger to meet the marine environnement of were you are building the floats. As for the construction of the 3' X 16' floating docks 2" X 8" rough sawn juniper is on the light side. What I used was 3" thick by 10" wide. This size is not easy to get by, but if you have access to a local (or portable) lumber mill it is no problem. As for the decking 1/4" X 3" is light I used 2" thick by 6" wide. You said you doing this on the cheap. I suggest that you use steel corner plate bolted through the cross member and the side stringer. Nailing could do for a short term but I do not recommend it. ups.com... I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks |
plastic barrels and floating docks
On Apr 19, 1:07 pm, wrote:
I do not know your location and what waves and tides actions you have. If you are inland and you are looking to build floating docks on the cheap to last for a year or so with ease of handling your approach could serve you on a short term basis. About using used plastic barrels, check where they coming from and what were they containing. I had to give up the idea of using plastic barrels because they had been used for the transport of toxic chemical. With today's environnemental bylaws it would be safer to check with the proper authorities. The following suggestions are subject to you area and waterway regulations. In some location the design will have to be much stronger to meet the marine environnement of were you are building the floats. As for the construction of the 3' X 16' floating docks 2" X 8" rough sawn juniper is on the light side. What I used was 3" thick by 10" wide. This size is not easy to get by, but if you have access to a local (or portable) lumber mill it is no problem. As for the decking 1/4" X 3" is light I used 2" thick by 6" wide. You said you doing this on the cheap. I suggest that you use steel corner plate bolted through the cross member and the side stringer. Nailing could do for a short term but I do not recommend it. ups.com... I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Small world I see you are from NB I am on PEI. It is in a sheltered cove about 4' deep. The barrels are clean. The decking is is 1-1/4" X 3" not 1/4" X 3. As for the corners I would put 4X4 post vertically on the inside and through bolt the 2x8's with Galv. carriage bolts. What about the amount of floatation. The barrels will support around 600lbs each if totally submerged, any idea how heavy the dock would be? |
plastic barrels and floating docks
"mark" wrote in message ups.com... On Apr 19, 1:07 pm, wrote: I do not know your location and what waves and tides actions you have. If you are inland and you are looking to build floating docks on the cheap to last for a year or so with ease of handling your approach could serve you on a short term basis. About using used plastic barrels, check where they coming from and what were they containing. I had to give up the idea of using plastic barrels because they had been used for the transport of toxic chemical. With today's environnemental bylaws it would be safer to check with the proper authorities. The following suggestions are subject to you area and waterway regulations. In some location the design will have to be much stronger to meet the marine environnement of were you are building the floats. As for the construction of the 3' X 16' floating docks 2" X 8" rough sawn juniper is on the light side. What I used was 3" thick by 10" wide. This size is not easy to get by, but if you have access to a local (or portable) lumber mill it is no problem. As for the decking 1/4" X 3" is light I used 2" thick by 6" wide. You said you doing this on the cheap. I suggest that you use steel corner plate bolted through the cross member and the side stringer. Nailing could do for a short term but I do not recommend it. ups.com... I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Small world I see you are from NB I am on PEI. It is in a sheltered cove about 4' deep. The barrels are clean. The decking is is 1-1/4" X 3" not 1/4" X 3. As for the corners I would put 4X4 post vertically on the inside and through bolt the 2x8's with Galv. carriage bolts. What about the amount of floatation. The barrels will support around 600lbs each if totally submerged, any idea how heavy the dock would be? 1-1/4" thick for decking is too light. I used min of 2" thick for decking. 4"X4" vertical corner post on the inside and through bolt the 2x8's with Galv. carriage bolts. is not the very best. With sea motions and tidal actions carriage bolts do tend to gouge the wood under the shoulder head and slack off the corner joints. Are you going to connect more than one 16 feet long float or you are only building one? If you are going to connect several 16' X 3' float together you need strong connection capable to resist the strongest prevailing wind. If you have only one light float not properly attached and anchored every time the prevailing wind pipes up in your small cove you will have to pull your float off the water. Then when the wind calms down you will have to push back the float in the water. On Grand Lake, NB. cottagers have done that for years. As for how heavy the floating dock would be I'll have to get back to my notes and validate the weight for different type of timber like juniper and hemlock. |
plastic barrels and floating docks
wrote in message ... "mark" wrote in message ups.com... On Apr 19, 1:07 pm, wrote: I do not know your location and what waves and tides actions you have. If you are inland and you are looking to build floating docks on the cheap to last for a year or so with ease of handling your approach could serve you on a short term basis. About using used plastic barrels, check where they coming from and what were they containing. I had to give up the idea of using plastic barrels because they had been used for the transport of toxic chemical. With today's environnemental bylaws it would be safer to check with the proper authorities. The following suggestions are subject to you area and waterway regulations. In some location the design will have to be much stronger to meet the marine environnement of were you are building the floats. As for the construction of the 3' X 16' floating docks 2" X 8" rough sawn juniper is on the light side. What I used was 3" thick by 10" wide. This size is not easy to get by, but if you have access to a local (or portable) lumber mill it is no problem. As for the decking 1/4" X 3" is light I used 2" thick by 6" wide. You said you doing this on the cheap. I suggest that you use steel corner plate bolted through the cross member and the side stringer. Nailing could do for a short term but I do not recommend it. ups.com... I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Small world I see you are from NB I am on PEI. It is in a sheltered cove about 4' deep. The barrels are clean. The decking is is 1-1/4" X 3" not 1/4" X 3. As for the corners I would put 4X4 post vertically on the inside and through bolt the 2x8's with Galv. carriage bolts. What about the amount of floatation. The barrels will support around 600lbs each if totally submerged, any idea how heavy the dock would be? 1-1/4" thick for decking is too light. I used min of 2" thick for decking. 4"X4" vertical corner post on the inside and through bolt the 2x8's with Galv. carriage bolts. is not the very best. With sea motions and tidal actions carriage bolts do tend to gouge the wood under the shoulder head and slack off the corner joints. Are you going to connect more than one 16 feet long float or you are only building one? If you are going to connect several 16' X 3' float together you need strong connection capable to resist the strongest prevailing wind. If you have only one light float not properly attached and anchored every time the prevailing wind pipes up in your small cove you will have to pull your float off the water. Then when the wind calms down you will have to push back the float in the water. On Grand Lake, NB. cottagers have done that for years. As for how heavy the floating dock would be I'll have to get back to my notes and validate the weight for different type of timber like juniper and hemlock. You are saying that you were to use Juniper lumber. At time, Juniper is a localism and is used to describe other known lumber trees species as Hemlock, Black spruce or Tamarack (Eastern Larch). Please check http://www.macphailwoods.org/tree/larch.html and tell me what species you are referring as Juniper. |
plastic barrels and floating docks
On Apr 19, 7:37 pm, wrote:
wrote in message ... "mark" wrote in message oups.com... On Apr 19, 1:07 pm, wrote: I do not know your location and what waves and tides actions you have. If you are inland and you are looking to build floating docks on the cheap to last for a year or so with ease of handling your approach could serve you on a short term basis. About using used plastic barrels, check where they coming from and what were they containing. I had to give up the idea of using plastic barrels because they had been used for the transport of toxic chemical. With today's environnemental bylaws it would be safer to check with the proper authorities. The following suggestions are subject to you area and waterway regulations. In some location the design will have to be much stronger to meet the marine environnement of were you are building the floats. As for the construction of the 3' X 16' floating docks 2" X 8" rough sawn juniper is on the light side. What I used was 3" thick by 10" wide. This size is not easy to get by, but if you have access to a local (or portable) lumber mill it is no problem. As for the decking 1/4" X 3" is light I used 2" thick by 6" wide. You said you doing this on the cheap. I suggest that you use steel corner plate bolted through the cross member and the side stringer. Nailing could do for a short term but I do not recommend it. groups.com... I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Small world I see you are from NB I am on PEI. It is in a sheltered cove about 4' deep. The barrels are clean. The decking is is 1-1/4" X 3" not 1/4" X 3. As for the corners I would put 4X4 post vertically on the inside and through bolt the 2x8's with Galv. carriage bolts. What about the amount of floatation. The barrels will support around 600lbs each if totally submerged, any idea how heavy the dock would be? 1-1/4" thick for decking is too light. I used min of 2" thick for decking. 4"X4" vertical corner post on the inside and through bolt the 2x8's with Galv. carriage bolts. is not the very best. With sea motions and tidal actions carriage bolts do tend to gouge the wood under the shoulder head and slack off the corner joints. Are you going to connect more than one 16 feet long float or you are only building one? If you are going to connect several 16' X 3' float together you need strong connection capable to resist the strongest prevailing wind. If you have only one light float not properly attached and anchored every time the prevailing wind pipes up in your small cove you will have to pull your float off the water. Then when the wind calms down you will have to push back the float in the water. On Grand Lake, NB. cottagers have done that for years. As for how heavy the floating dock would be I'll have to get back to my notes and validate the weight for different type of timber like juniper and hemlock. You are saying that you were to use Juniper lumber. At time, Juniper is a localism and is used to describe other known lumber trees species as Hemlock, Black spruce or Tamarack (Eastern Larch). Please check http://www.macphailwoods.org/tree/larch.html and tell me what species you are referring as Juniper.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I am refering to Tamerac or Larch, It is becoming very popular around here for use in residential outdoor decks as it is resistant to rot. |
plastic barrels and floating docks
Speaking from someone who used barrels DON'T
it will be rock and roll heaven. If you do make it double wide! Go floats the full length "mark" wrote in message ups.com... I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks |
plastic barrels and floating docks
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plastic barrels and floating docks
"mark" wrote in message oups.com... On Apr 19, 7:37 pm, wrote: wrote in message ... "mark" wrote in message oups.com... On Apr 19, 1:07 pm, wrote: I do not know your location and what waves and tides actions you have. If you are inland and you are looking to build floating docks on the cheap to last for a year or so with ease of handling your approach could serve you on a short term basis. About using used plastic barrels, check where they coming from and what were they containing. I had to give up the idea of using plastic barrels because they had been used for the transport of toxic chemical. With today's environnemental bylaws it would be safer to check with the proper authorities. The following suggestions are subject to you area and waterway regulations. In some location the design will have to be much stronger to meet the marine environnement of were you are building the floats. As for the construction of the 3' X 16' floating docks 2" X 8" rough sawn juniper is on the light side. What I used was 3" thick by 10" wide. This size is not easy to get by, but if you have access to a local (or portable) lumber mill it is no problem. As for the decking 1/4" X 3" is light I used 2" thick by 6" wide. You said you doing this on the cheap. I suggest that you use steel corner plate bolted through the cross member and the side stringer. Nailing could do for a short term but I do not recommend it. groups.com... I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Small world I see you are from NB I am on PEI. It is in a sheltered cove about 4' deep. The barrels are clean. The decking is is 1-1/4" X 3" not 1/4" X 3. As for the corners I would put 4X4 post vertically on the inside and through bolt the 2x8's with Galv. carriage bolts. What about the amount of floatation. The barrels will support around 600lbs each if totally submerged, any idea how heavy the dock would be? 1-1/4" thick for decking is too light. I used min of 2" thick for decking. 4"X4" vertical corner post on the inside and through bolt the 2x8's with Galv. carriage bolts. is not the very best. With sea motions and tidal actions carriage bolts do tend to gouge the wood under the shoulder head and slack off the corner joints. Are you going to connect more than one 16 feet long float or you are only building one? If you are going to connect several 16' X 3' float together you need strong connection capable to resist the strongest prevailing wind. If you have only one light float not properly attached and anchored every time the prevailing wind pipes up in your small cove you will have to pull your float off the water. Then when the wind calms down you will have to push back the float in the water. On Grand Lake, NB. cottagers have done that for years. As for how heavy the floating dock would be I'll have to get back to my notes and validate the weight for different type of timber like juniper and hemlock. You are saying that you were to use Juniper lumber. At time, Juniper is a localism and is used to describe other known lumber trees species as Hemlock, Black spruce or Tamarack (Eastern Larch). Please check http://www.macphailwoods.org/tree/larch.html and tell me what species you are referring as Juniper.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I am refering to Tamerac or Larch, It is becoming very popular around here for use in residential outdoor decks as it is resistant to rot. The green weight of Tamerack is 3.9 lbs for 1 BF that is 1" thick X 12" X 12" This wood varies in weight on a regional level. When you do the weight calculation you can only be sure at a plus or minus 10%. What we did is we build one dock with its floats as a prototype. Then we launched this dock and checked its center of gravity and the immersion depth. Luckily everything was acceptable. Then we started to build more docks. Tamarack was used in the old shipbuilding of New Brunswick for a very long time. |
plastic barrels and floating docks
Plastic barrels won't get chewed up by muskrats like foam does.
They will probably float too high, making the centre of gravity of the docks too high, and therefore the docks will be tippy. But you can partially fill the barrels with water to lower the centre of gravity. You have the advantage of putting letting just as much water into the barrels as you need to lower the docks. With water in the barrels the docks won't blow about in the wind. |
plastic barrels and floating docks
On 19 Apr 2007 07:48:53 -0700, mark wrote:
I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Take a look at http://www.tiedown.com/amarinedls.html for some pointers on dock design? I have no experience of the designs or products, but they may assist. -- Richard Nb "Pound Eater" Parkend G+S "Governments are like Nappies, they should be changed often." (For the same reason) |
plastic barrels and floating docks
On Apr 19, 10:48 am, mark wrote:
I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Mark, I'm doing the same thing this summer. I've been looking at www.techstarplastics.com for floats but they are $325 each from a local distributor. I've found an interesting step by step dock building site at: http://www.canadianfishing.com/dock/index.htm, fyi. My dock will be 2 sections of 10ft wide x 16ft, so I'm looking at ways to cut costs as well. I want the dock stable for 4-6 adults at the end of the dock, sitting & enjoying a beer! Some guys on the lake have 6ft wide docks with barrels and they rock a fair amount. I would think a 3ft wide dock would flip over! If you find any more info, please post/email. Thanks, ---davr |
plastic barrels and floating docks
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plastic barrels and floating docks
On Apr 20, 1:54 pm, Wm Watt wrote:
Plastic barrels won't get chewed up by muskrats like foam does. They will probably float too high, making the centre of gravity of the docks too high, and therefore the docks will be tippy. But you can partially fill the barrels with water to lower the centre of gravity. You have the advantage of putting letting just as much water into the barrels as you need to lower the docks. With water in the barrels the docks won't blow about in the wind. I've found plenty of discussion on the topic at various locations around the internet, but I can't seem to find any information about where to get these 55gal plastic barrels that everyone keeps talking about. All I can find are floats that cost approx $100 per 350lb of lift. That's over my budget. I'm looking for cheaper options, like barrels, but I have no idea where to find them. Little help here? |
plastic barrels and floating docks
Watch the papers. When someone gets them, one ad usually is enough to
sell them out. A local junkyard has them often, and metal ones. A concrete plant near you may have some wetting agent barrels they use. What are they worth to ship? I know of a few sources around here. Terry K |
plastic barrels and floating docks
On Apr 19, 10:40 am, max camirand wrote:
On Apr 19, 10:48 am, mark wrote: I am going to build some floating docks but before I re-invent the wheel I would like to get some opinions. They will be 16' long by 3' wide and at either end I would put a plastic barrel under it, inside the frame. The frame would be 2X8 rough sawn Juniper and the decking would be 1 1/4" X 3 . First of all would this be stable or want to roll, should I put a 3rd barrel in the center? If the barrels were in a framework but free moving could they act as rollers to help when pulling the docks out of the water. The beach is very gradual. I am doing this on the cheap so I am not buying any floating dock hardware, brackets, plastic floats etc...Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks In my opinion and experience, they will be unstable and want to roll. They will almost certainly be more stable upside down than rightside up. Most floating docks have one or more finger docks, which are the narrow parts. If they're connected to each other perpendicularily, this'll keep them from rolling. Putting a third barrel in the center is only useful if you don't have enough floatation. It won't make it any more stable. Probably the opposite. You don't have to buy "floating dock hardware" to connect them together. Just get your local metal shop to weld up some heavy hinges (2 per junction) with a removable axis pin. Get everything hot dip galvanized. -Maxime Camirand To hook the sections of dock together you can use two sets of hot- dipped galvanized eye bolts. Put two eye bolts on the ends of the two docks you want to connect, with the set on one of the docks slightly closer together than the other. Line up the eyes and run an appropriate gauge and length of galvanized rod/threaded rod/pipe and secure the ends with a pin/nut/cap- whatever works. On a three foot wide dock, you would probably put the eye bolts about 2.5 feet apart. This method of connecting docks is cheap, extremely strong and secure, allows the dock sections hinge naturally with the movements of the water, is easily taken apart, and provides for great lateral stability. Oh, and did I mention cheap? And no, I am not CEO of an eye bolt company :) Michael Pierce |
plastic barrels and floating docks
I've found plenty of discussion on the topic at various locations
around the internet, but I can't seem to find any information about where to get these 55gal plastic barrels that everyone keeps talking about. All I can find are floats that cost approx $100 per 350lb of lift. That's over my budget. I'm looking for cheaper options, like barrels, but I have no idea where to find them. Little help here? I just picked up 2 new but used bright blue plastic barrels from a local farmer. They have 2 screw caps in the top. The local farmer sells all kinds of barrels. They cost me $12ea (CAN). Both had been used for food. I looked at the labels of the barrels and they were all types; pickles, syrup, molasses, even eye contact solution. I would recommend contacting a local large manufacturer of food products and ask them if they have any to sell or who they sell their used barrels to. Good luck. |
plastic barrels and floating docks
My 10' x 8' (overall) float uses 6 plastic barrels, 3 each spaced
inside 2 pipes made of 11 degree chamfered 1x6"x5' rough sawn #2 cedar. 13 boards in circumference, plus one more ripped down to about 3" wide to space pipe and barrels snug. Probably could get away with 4 barrels total, but then might need to use full pipe length boards instead of staggering the 5' boards. They were cheap. The height in the water is good for a 14' powerboat and a 29' sailboat. It is stable. Each pipe is held together with steel banding and includes gaps in the boards for ladders, stowage, pet fish, spacer 2 x 4s, etc. The 2 pipes are harnessed in figure 8 chains. The chains will soon be held snug to the pipes with fence wire braces and threaded rod tensioners, or possibly a few short staples. Fence wire braces corner to corner will be added to stabilize pipes fore and aft. The decks are 5' x 5'. 2 layers of the same 5' cedar, criss crossed, nailed and clenched, with eye bolts at each corner. The dock is held (pushed) offshore by an old lightning chewed aluminum mast chained to a rock. The gangway is "T" sectioned, nailed up from 1 x 5s and a 1 x 4, with cross pieces at the ends. The dock has been left out in the snow and ice, only floated up in high water in the fall and floated down in the spring freshet. It is being neglected to destruction. So far, 3 years and no signs of failure. I expect the standard banding to rust out sometime in the next 5 years. Rebanding the raft pipes will take about an hour, provided I get it done before it all suddenly and completely disintegrates. I may use stainless banding this time. It was cheap, easy and fun to assemble. Can be muscled around myself, if moved in pieces. It looks great! I thought I sent this posting two weeks ago? Terry K |
plastic barrels and floating docks
On Jul 4, 11:48 am, Terry K wrote:
My 10' x 8' (overall) float uses 6 plastic barrels, 3 each spaced inside 2 pipes made of 11 degree chamfered 1x6"x5' rough sawn #2 cedar. 13 boards in circumference, plus one more ripped down to about 3" wide to space pipe and barrels snug. Probably could get away with 4 barrels total, but then might need to use full pipe length boards instead of staggering the 5' boards. They were cheap. The height in the water is good for a 14' powerboat and a 29' sailboat. It is stable. Each pipe is held together with steel banding and includes gaps in the boards for ladders, stowage, pet fish, spacer 2 x 4s, etc. The 2 pipes are harnessed in figure 8 chains. The chains will soon be held snug to the pipes with fence wire braces and threaded rod tensioners, or possibly a few short staples. Fence wire braces corner to corner will be added to stabilize pipes fore and aft. The decks are 5' x 5'. 2 layers of the same 5' cedar, criss crossed, nailed and clenched, with eye bolts at each corner. The dock is held (pushed) offshore by an old lightning chewed aluminum mast chained to a rock. The gangway is "T" sectioned, nailed up from 1 x 5s and a 1 x 4, with cross pieces at the ends. The dock has been left out in the snow and ice, only floated up in high water in the fall and floated down in the spring freshet. It is being neglected to destruction. So far, 3 years and no signs of failure. I expect the standard banding to rust out sometime in the next 5 years. Rebanding the raft pipes will take about an hour, provided I get it done before it all suddenly and completely disintegrates. I may use stainless banding this time. It was cheap, easy and fun to assemble. Can be muscled around myself, if moved in pieces. It looks great! I thought I sent this posting two weeks ago? Terry K sorry to ride a post. only thing i would warn is make sure the barrels are not locked into the dock. if one gets a crack or hole in it its going to cause problems unless it can fall out. if it cant it will pull its section down as it fills with water. |
plastic barrels and floating docks
Now this sounds like serious nonsense: Does the water entering the barrel get heavier than the outside water, once it is inside? Or was this the best a seven foot troll could do? Then try fuel filter topics for the best results! :) only thing i would warn is make sure the barrels are not locked into the dock. if one gets a crack or hole in it its going to cause problems unless it can fall out. if it cant it will pull its section down as it fills with water. |
plastic barrels and floating docks
On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 22:43:00 -0700, Chris_MdR wrote:
Now this sounds like serious nonsense: Does the water entering the barrel get heavier than the outside water, once it is inside? Or was this the best a seven foot troll could do? Then try fuel filter topics for the best results! :) only thing i would warn is make sure the barrels are not locked into the dock. if one gets a crack or hole in it its going to cause problems unless it can fall out. if it cant it will pull its section down as it fills with water. naa im too dumb for that and i like to have dry feet. fuel filters who needs fuel filters; a roll of papertowels and your all set. |
plastic barrels and floating docks
I will not respond to this stupid weft.
Pictures and plans on request. Terry K |
plastic barrels and floating docks
I found some floating dock options online and it looks like there are some professional options vs. Just using barrels. Look at www.cubedocks.com
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plastic barrels and floating docks
On Wednesday, January 1, 2014 3:08:04 AM UTC-6, wrote:
I found some floating dock options online and it looks like there are some professional options vs. Just using barrels. Look at www.cubedocks.com That's a pretty interesting website. I wonder how'd plastic barrels would do to make a cheap pontoon boat? |
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