I have a 1970 Gary Mull designed Ranger 26 that has a cracked
deckhead. Starting amidships and extending to port just inches aft of
the bulkhead, before entering the head and v-berth area, the crack is
six inches long and about an eighth inch at its widest. In addition,
there appears to be a small area of delamination just above the
dinette's forward bench on the same side but none in the area between
the crack and the dinette (there is about a foot between the crack and
the delamination). On deck, at the mast step and in the area
corresponding to the deckhead crack I see no visible signs of deck
compression nor does there appear to be any delamination corresponding
to the apparent delamination of the deckhead.

I purchased the boat, my first, with this damage and have sailed it
conservatively with no problems. I would, however like to make repairs
and wonder if there are any owners or former builders that can give me
insight into how the mast step is constructed above the cabin door to
the head and v-berth. I imagine the repair will entail removing the
mast and cutting out the deck in the affected area and replacing the
core and perhaps whatever sort of header is above the bulkhead beneath
the step.

I have search and read everything I can find on this boat but it is
old and not much information is available. Any help would be
appreciated.

would like to know if any one could help me with some information of hole to
fill a hole it is a tiny screw hole in under side about 16th i dia should i
west expoxp it or should i drill it out in fill with expoxy

Colin,

West epoxy will be and effective repair. If you can close one side so
the epoxy does not run through, you need to do nothing else. If you can
not close the lower surface, you can first wet the hole with epoxy, then
add filler to make the mixture very thick and use that to fill the hole.

Good Luck

Matt Colie

colinmoore wrote:
would like to know if any one could help me with some information of
hole to fill a hole it is a tiny screw hole in under side about 16th i
dia should i west expoxp it or should i drill it out in fill with expoxy

On Apr 8, 7:02 pm, wrote:
I have a 1970 Gary Mull designed Ranger 26 that has a cracked
deckhead. Starting amidships and extending to port just inches aft of
the bulkhead, before entering the head and v-berth area, the crack is
six inches long and about an eighth inch at its widest. In addition,
there appears to be a small area of delamination just above the
dinette's forward bench on the same side but none in the area between
the crack and the dinette (there is about a foot between the crack and
the delamination). On deck, at the mast step and in the area
corresponding to the deckhead crack I see no visible signs of deck
compression nor does there appear to be any delamination corresponding
to the apparent delamination of the deckhead.

I purchased the boat, my first, with this damage and have sailed it
conservatively with no problems. I would, however like to make repairs
and wonder if there are any owners or former builders that can give me
insight into how the mast step is constructed above the cabin door to
the head and v-berth. I imagine the repair will entail removing the
mast and cutting out the deck in the affected area and replacing the
core and perhaps whatever sort of header is above the bulkhead beneath
the step.

I have search and read everything I can find on this boat but it is
old and not much information is available. Any help would be
appreciated.

What happened to change the subject here? Unfortunetely I don't have
an answer for faithinphys but I do have a Gary Mull Ranger 26 and am
interested in possible responses to the mast step issue.

On Apr 8, 5:02 pm, wrote:
I have a 1970 Gary Mull designed Ranger 26 that has a cracked
deckhead.


And do your cockpit drains go to (2) 1 1/2" throughhulls located below
the water line? SO if you close and drain teh valves to keep them from
freezing and breaking and sinking the boat but then your cockpit can
not drain so the water raises then fills the salon. BUt if you leave
the drains open then they might freeze, split and then sink your
boat.

Is that the Ranger you have???

Bob

On Apr 9, 9:37 am, "Todd" wrote:
On Apr 8, 7:02 pm, wrote:



I have a 1970 Gary Mull designed Ranger 26 that has a cracked
deckhead. Starting amidships and extending to port just inches aft of
the bulkhead, before entering the head and v-berth area, the crack is
six inches long and about an eighth inch at its widest. In addition,
there appears to be a small area of delamination just above the
dinette's forward bench on the same side but none in the area between
the crack and the dinette (there is about a foot between the crack and
the delamination). On deck, at the mast step and in the area
corresponding to the deckhead crack I see no visible signs of deck
compression nor does there appear to be any delamination corresponding
to the apparent delamination of the deckhead.

I purchased the boat, my first, with this damage and have sailed it
conservatively with no problems. I would, however like to make repairs
and wonder if there are any owners or former builders that can give me
insight into how the mast step is constructed above the cabin door to
the head and v-berth. I imagine the repair will entail removing the
mast and cutting out the deck in the affected area and replacing the
core and perhaps whatever sort of header is above the bulkhead beneath
the step.

I have search and read everything I can find on this boat but it is
old and not much information is available. Any help would be
appreciated.

What happened to change the subject here? Unfortunetely I don't have
an answer for faithinphys but I do have a Gary Mull Ranger 26 and am
interested in possible responses to the mast step issue.

I'm not sure what has happened here. Yours is the only reply that
seems to have any connection to my question.

On Apr 17, 1:32 am, Mick wrote:
On Apr 9, 9:37 am, "Todd" wrote:



On Apr 8, 7:02 pm, wrote:

I have a 1970 Gary Mull designed Ranger 26 that has a cracked
deckhead. Starting amidships and extending to port just inches aft of
the bulkhead, before entering the head and v-berth area, the crack is
six inches long and about an eighth inch at its widest. In addition,
there appears to be a small area of delamination just above the
dinette's forward bench on the same side but none in the area between
the crack and the dinette (there is about a foot between the crack and
the delamination). On deck, at the mast step and in the area
corresponding to the deckhead crack I see no visible signs of deck
compression nor does there appear to be any delamination corresponding
to the apparent delamination of the deckhead.

I purchased the boat, my first, with this damage and have sailed it
conservatively with no problems. I would, however like to make repairs
and wonder if there are any owners or former builders that can give me
insight into how the mast step is constructed above the cabin door to
the head and v-berth. I imagine the repair will entail removing the
mast and cutting out the deck in the affected area and replacing the
core and perhaps whatever sort of header is above the bulkhead beneath
the step.

I have search and read everything I can find on this boat but it is
old and not much information is available. Any help would be
appreciated.

What happened to change the subject here? Unfortunetely I don't have
an answer for faithinphys but I do have a Gary Mull Ranger 26 and am
interested in possible responses to the mast step issue.

I'm not sure what has happened here. Yours is the only reply that
seems to have any connection to my question.

Arrrgh, musta-been thread pirates!
(Sorry, couldn't help myself.)

Re. Gary Mull Ranger 26 and cockpit drains: That does sound like the
boat I have Bob. How'd you know? 'Course, that very "fault" I consider
a feature because it was part of the reason that I got the boat so
cheap!
Todd

Gary Mull Ranger 26 and cockpit drains: That does sound like the
boat I have Bob. How'd you know?

I have a friend who has one, who sold it to another friend. The Ranger
has spent over 10 years in the same slip. We all wondered about that
"design flaw" and each winter as the marina froze solid with 2-4"
thick ice and the temps droped to 0-10F for weeks at a
time................ we all concluded it must not be a problem if the
boat is still floating.

'Course, that very "fault" I consider
a feature because it was part of the reason that I got the boat so
cheap!

Great! What can I say....... the through hulls should freeze, split,
thaw, and flood the boat. They dont?!?!?!? Go figure......

Just thought I would pull ur chain a bit.............. Bob


Todd- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Actually, I haul her every year. My biggest problem is crud
accumulating in the drain holes during the period w/o the tarp on.
I've found that stuffing sections of nylon screen material down 'em
makes clean out a breeze.

I got the boat cheap because the cockpit had flooded (stored in cradle
but with no tarp) as well as the cabin from 2 years worth of rain
water. Everything below 2 feet in the cabin was wrecked including
electrical circuits. No problem, it was a great father son project.

That boat sails great and I think it's worth the effort, if anyone
finds one in need, to restore.

Todd

On Apr 19, 6:49 am, Todd wrote:

Actually, I haul her every year. My biggest problem is crud
accumulating in the drain holes during the period w/o the tarp on.
Todd

Hi:

If I remember right the cockpit drains openings are about 1" Max,
maybe 3/4" ID?

I say get that hole saw out and drill them over to 1 1/2" and put a
mushroom head hose barb throughhull as a drain. No standing water
problems then........ It would be all 1 1/2" then.

I had two 1 1/2" cockpit drains. I wanted to reduce the time it took
to empty my cockpit so I installed an adtioinal 2 1/4" ID drain. For a
while I was thinking to go cheep and just use a 2" ID ABS residential
shower drain. But went for the bronze through hull................
Bronze is a boys best friend.

Cheep boats are for practice and learning. Start learning how to
install through hulls! Next you can remodel the window openings and
install some macho ones.....
Bob