In article . com,
"Skip Gundlach" wrote:

I'm going to follow up to see if one *must* screw it back down (vs,
e.g., wedging i.e. are the screws necessary for structural integrity,
or just used to pull it tight?) to make it happen. If wedging will
suffice, likely we won't have to pull the tanks, minimizing an already
labor intensive project into something far more manageable.

I suspect it's like doing glue & nail in woodworking: The nails are
really there only to get a good bond; you could pull them after it's set
up. But you want a really good bond....

Agreement with KLC's assessment on the "cleanness" of the break. Rough
is better, polyester probably your best bet, fortified with something
strong that you can shoot in with, say, a caulk gun.

It does keep sounding better and better.

Just a thought that you might toss around: to get pressure on the
joints, you might intentionally put jackstands at those areas,
intentionally a bit too "tight"; the hull will probably flex outward
afterwards, pulling the bulkheads back in place.


--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's NEW Pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Feb 13, 3:13 am, Jere Lull wrote:


Just a thought that you might toss around: to get pressure on the
joints, you might intentionally put jackstands at those areas,
intentionally a bit too "tight"; the hull will probably flex outward
afterwards, pulling the bulkheads back in place.


Excellent thought. So far what iI can see (pictures, soon, I promise!)
suggests it's already tight, as there's not a gap top/bottom of the
line where it used to be attached.

As to KLC's comment about reinforcement, if I could get to them all
the way, the discussion of shims/wedges wouldn't be necessary. And,
if I could get to them all the way, I'm enough of a belt and
suspenders man that I'd likely grind it off and put on new, building
up in exactly the same form as original (Pete provided me with the
type of cloth used). I can't see how adding wood over an existing tab,
and then going over it with FG/resin would improve matters; you're
relying on the existing part, and not connecting the new to the
bulkhead (I may not have a picture of what was intended, I realize).

Thanks for all the commentary and support, in whatever fashion. Today
it looks like we'll have a beater Suburban for use in transport and
hauling; I'll know for sure by the end of the day.

L8R

Skip

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and scrutible use of delible and defatigable, which are gainly, sipid
and couth. We are gruntled and consolate that you have the ertia and
eptitude to choose such putably pensible tithesis, which we parage.

Stamp out Sesquipedalianism
--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's NEW Pages:http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics)http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

"Skip Gundlach" wrote in message
ups.com...

As to KLC's comment about reinforcement, if I could get to them all
the way, the discussion of shims/wedges wouldn't be necessary. And,
if I could get to them all the way, I'm enough of a belt and
suspenders man that I'd likely grind it off and put on new, building
up in exactly the same form as original (Pete provided me with the
type of cloth used). I can't see how adding wood over an existing tab,
and then going over it with FG/resin would improve matters; you're
relying on the existing part, and not connecting the new to the
bulkhead (I may not have a picture of what was intended, I realize).

Thanks for all the commentary and support, in whatever fashion. Today
it looks like we'll have a beater Suburban for use in transport and
hauling; I'll know for sure by the end of the day.

L8R

Skip

Skip,

My outline may have left out steps that I have clearly in mind, but didn't
translate into dots on the screen. The way I see it, yes -- you could grind
off all the old tabbing and install it new, but then you would have TWO
secondary/mechanical bonds, rather than the one secondary (tabbing to
bulkhead) and one primary (tabbing to hull, laid-up when the resin was still
fresh and molecularly active.

My method does rely upon glue (epoxy) between the bulkhead and old tabbing,
clamped together with the bolts and battens, all laminated together into one
thick tabbing. Unfortunately, if you don't have the access, you don't have
the access. So now the question becomes, can you ever make it strong enough
without that access?

On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 13:00:08 -0600, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

My method does rely upon glue (epoxy) between the bulkhead and old tabbing,
clamped together with the bolts and battens

In addition to using epoxy resin (instead of polyester), I recommend
thickening the resin with chopped glass fibers to improve its
strength.

This is a difficult repair without having full access on at least one
side of the bulkhead.

In article , "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

So now the question becomes, can you ever make it strong enough
without that access?

How could you ever know how strong it was?

You'll never reach 100% new as-built strength. But even if you did by some
chance, you'll never be able to KNOW exactly how strong the repair is.
You'll have to take her out in progressivly more stressful conditions and
each time there will be that knot in your gut. Will it take 5' seas? 6'
seas? 7' seas pounding for day after day? Even if it does, you'll not
know if the next wave will be the one. You'll crawl around in the bildge
after each short trip looking for problems that really can't be seen.
This is not what the dream was about.

No, it will never be a Morgan again. Not so that you can trust her just
because there is a long history of Morgans that are built just like her
that have proven themselves countless times. That was why you bought a
Morgan in the first place. The confidence that she'll be able to handle
anything the sea throws at her. That's gone for good now. There will
always be a nagging doubt. You'll live in fear of every new set of
conditions, only trusting her if conditions are just perfect, and they
never are. Over time your love for her will turn to hate just from this
nagging mistrust. You'll find more and more excuses to leave her at the
dock. Afraid each and every time you leave a port.

No, even a horse you dearly love should be put down when the time comes.
Do it swiftly and without regrets.

Good luck,
Paul

--

Remove Before Flight

Jere Lull wrote:

I suspect it's like doing glue & nail in woodworking: The nails are
really there only to get a good bond; you could pull them after it's set
up. But you want a really good bond....



Epoxies are not great in peel.

The screws would help prevent that - and act as shear pins.

Screw it....


Ricahrd