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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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removing 1700lb engines; back yard
I need to build a contraption to remove two large, old, heavy engines.
(1968 CC 427's). The boat is on stands and there's no way I know of to get a boom up, over and inside the wheelhouse. So... I'm considering building tripods on either side of the wheelhouse... running a metal I beam thru the windows over the engines... lifting... placing them a wooden bed... sliding the engine back to the rear... where a small crane can lift out. The question I have is.. what to build the tripods out of... 4x4's our of sistered 2x4's? Something beefier... I recall reading somewhere they weight in at 1700lbs. many thanks. |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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removing 1700lb engines; back yard
Paul Wiggins wrote: I need to build a contraption to remove two large, old, heavy engines. (1968 CC 427's). The boat is on stands and there's no way I know of to get a boom up, over and inside the wheelhouse. So... I'm considering building tripods on either side of the wheelhouse... running a metal I beam thru the windows over the engines... lifting... placing them a wooden bed... sliding the engine back to the rear... where a small crane can lift out. The question I have is.. what to build the tripods out of... 4x4's our of sistered 2x4's? Something beefier... I recall reading somewhere they weight in at 1700lbs. many thanks. 1700 lbs seems waaaaaaay heavy for such engines. I bet you could do it easier by simply levering them up, stacking boards underneath, finally getting it onto a bed of boards where you can litle by little "walk" it to clear air. Make a ramp outa 2 4X4s and use a come-along to hoist it up and out of cabin or whereever it is. I actually did this but it was with a much smaller diesel. |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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removing 1700lb engines; back yard
This is a method that we use often at the local boatyard but we have 2
tripods made with 1 inche steel tube and a very large plate at the bottom to spread the load on the floor. This seems very important since you don't know if you're on solid or not with some fiberglass boat. 1700/2 = 850 lbs on each side so a 4x4 = 3.5 x 3.5 = 12.25 = 70 PSI. This is not a big load for a static structure but unless you are sure the local structure can take the whole 850 lbs is something else. Better have a large plate at the bottom to spread the load. Be very cautious if you build from 2x4 or 4x4 because they could have some invisible defect and the loat will be great. A 4x4 is strong enough if well built though but you need to make the attachment accordingly to the load. André "Paul Wiggins" wrote in message ... I need to build a contraption to remove two large, old, heavy engines. (1968 CC 427's). The boat is on stands and there's no way I know of to get a boom up, over and inside the wheelhouse. So... I'm considering building tripods on either side of the wheelhouse... running a metal I beam thru the windows over the engines... lifting... placing them a wooden bed... sliding the engine back to the rear... where a small crane can lift out. The question I have is.. what to build the tripods out of... 4x4's our of sistered 2x4's? Something beefier... I recall reading somewhere they weight in at 1700lbs. many thanks. |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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removing 1700lb engines; back yard
Yeah... you're dead-on... using one piece of wood is risky, metal would
be much safer; but then again... carefully picked out wood, sistered to reduce the single point of failure issue... would be ok The scary part is how to spread the load correctly on the floor. It's a 1959 SeaSkiff and while the wheelhouse floor (above the engines is solid)... there is some flex in the floor in the 12'x10' rear deck. Some temp supports underneath should help; and a 4x4 set of logs to slide a greased sled. thanks! -p André Langevin wrote: This is a method that we use often at the local boatyard but we have 2 tripods made with 1 inche steel tube and a very large plate at the bottom to spread the load on the floor. This seems very important since you don't know if you're on solid or not with some fiberglass boat. 1700/2 = 850 lbs on each side so a 4x4 = 3.5 x 3.5 = 12.25 = 70 PSI. This is not a big load for a static structure but unless you are sure the local structure can take the whole 850 lbs is something else. Better have a large plate at the bottom to spread the load. Be very cautious if you build from 2x4 or 4x4 because they could have some invisible defect and the loat will be great. A 4x4 is strong enough if well built though but you need to make the attachment accordingly to the load. André "Paul Wiggins" wrote in message ... I need to build a contraption to remove two large, old, heavy engines. (1968 CC 427's). The boat is on stands and there's no way I know of to get a boom up, over and inside the wheelhouse. So... I'm considering building tripods on either side of the wheelhouse... running a metal I beam thru the windows over the engines... lifting... placing them a wooden bed... sliding the engine back to the rear... where a small crane can lift out. The question I have is.. what to build the tripods out of... 4x4's our of sistered 2x4's? Something beefier... I recall reading somewhere they weight in at 1700lbs. many thanks. |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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removing 1700lb engines; back yard
If you are going to have to hire a crane anyway here is a suggestion that
eliminates any stress on the floors and makes removal and resetting a simple single operation that minimizes crane time. Have a "U" shape frame welded up of 3" square heavy wall steel tubing. The legs of the U should be the distance from the edge of the cabin top to the lift point of the engine plus a couple of inches and the bottom of the U should be the length needed to clear any obstacles plus a few inches. Reinforce the corners by welding on some gusset plates. Bolt lifting rings to the ends of the legs. A 20' stick of 3" heavy tube will set you back about $80 and welding another $50 or so. When the crane arrives, have it lift the frame using one ring and maneuver the lower leg into the boat. The upper leg will be over the cabin top. Hook the engine to the bottom leg and lift. The weight of the engine will balance the frame horizontally. When it gets high enough to clear any obstacles have the crane swing back out of the cabin and lift out all in one operation. Save the frame for use in resetting the engines. I set my 550 lb Yanmar under the cockpit single handed using a frame welded up from 2" tube, a rolling gantry cobbled together from a pair of old barn door tracks bolted to a 2x8 and a chain fall. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Paul Wiggins" wrote in message ... I need to build a contraption to remove two large, old, heavy engines. (1968 CC 427's). The boat is on stands and there's no way I know of to get a boom up, over and inside the wheelhouse. So... I'm considering building tripods on either side of the wheelhouse... running a metal I beam thru the windows over the engines... lifting... placing them a wooden bed... sliding the engine back to the rear... where a small crane can lift out. The question I have is.. what to build the tripods out of... 4x4's our of sistered 2x4's? Something beefier... I recall reading somewhere they weight in at 1700lbs. many thanks. |
#6
posted to rec.boats.building
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removing 1700lb engines; back yard
Glenn Ashmore wrote:
Hi Glenn, Great suggestion! But ****e, Are you sure the lower leg will hold the weight? I figure the distance from the rear roof line to the center point of the engine... is 3 - 4'. Seems like the leverage would cause... snap crackle pop. Heavy walled... what thickness? thanks! -paul If you are going to have to hire a crane anyway here is a suggestion that eliminates any stress on the floors and makes removal and resetting a simple single operation that minimizes crane time. Have a "U" shape frame welded up of 3" square heavy wall steel tubing. The legs of the U should be the distance from the edge of the cabin top to the lift point of the engine plus a couple of inches and the bottom of the U should be the length needed to clear any obstacles plus a few inches. Reinforce the corners by welding on some gusset plates. Bolt lifting rings to the ends of the legs. A 20' stick of 3" heavy tube will set you back about $80 and welding another $50 or so. When the crane arrives, have it lift the frame using one ring and maneuver the lower leg into the boat. The upper leg will be over the cabin top. Hook the engine to the bottom leg and lift. The weight of the engine will balance the frame horizontally. When it gets high enough to clear any obstacles have the crane swing back out of the cabin and lift out all in one operation. Save the frame for use in resetting the engines. I set my 550 lb Yanmar under the cockpit single handed using a frame welded up from 2" tube, a rolling gantry cobbled together from a pair of old barn door tracks bolted to a 2x8 and a chain fall. |
#7
posted to rec.boats.building
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removing 1700lb engines; back yard
Glenn Ashmore wrote:
Hi Glenn, Great suggestion! But ****e, Are you sure the lower leg will hold the weight? I figure the distance from the rear roof line to the center point of the engine... is 3 - 4'. Seems like the leverage would cause... snap crackle pop. Heavy walled... what thickness? thanks! -paul If you are going to have to hire a crane anyway here is a suggestion that eliminates any stress on the floors and makes removal and resetting a simple single operation that minimizes crane time. Have a "U" shape frame welded up of 3" square heavy wall steel tubing. The legs of the U should be the distance from the edge of the cabin top to the lift point of the engine plus a couple of inches and the bottom of the U should be the length needed to clear any obstacles plus a few inches. Reinforce the corners by welding on some gusset plates. Bolt lifting rings to the ends of the legs. A 20' stick of 3" heavy tube will set you back about $80 and welding another $50 or so. When the crane arrives, have it lift the frame using one ring and maneuver the lower leg into the boat. The upper leg will be over the cabin top. Hook the engine to the bottom leg and lift. The weight of the engine will balance the frame horizontally. When it gets high enough to clear any obstacles have the crane swing back out of the cabin and lift out all in one operation. Save the frame for use in resetting the engines. I set my 550 lb Yanmar under the cockpit single handed using a frame welded up from 2" tube, a rolling gantry cobbled together from a pair of old barn door tracks bolted to a 2x8 and a chain fall. |
#8
posted to rec.boats.building
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removing 1700lb engines; back yard
Just ran a quick check with my beam calculator. If your engines really do
weigh 1700 lbs each and the length is 4' you should probably go to 3x4 .250" wall. That will keep the bending stress safely under the 33kip yield strength and deflection at the end about .290". Both legs and the connecting piece will deflect so allow one inch total. 3x4" quarter wall tube is commonly used for support columns in construction so you should be able to find it easily. If the engines are under 100 lb you could get by with 3" .250" wall but in either case gusset plates on either side of the corners would be good insurance for any welding faults. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "Paul Wiggins" wrote in message ... Glenn Ashmore wrote: Hi Glenn, Great suggestion! But ****e, Are you sure the lower leg will hold the weight? I figure the distance from the rear roof line to the center point of the engine... is 3 - 4'. Seems like the leverage would cause... snap crackle pop. Heavy walled... what thickness? thanks! -paul If you are going to have to hire a crane anyway here is a suggestion that eliminates any stress on the floors and makes removal and resetting a simple single operation that minimizes crane time. Have a "U" shape frame welded up of 3" square heavy wall steel tubing. The legs of the U should be the distance from the edge of the cabin top to the lift point of the engine plus a couple of inches and the bottom of the U should be the length needed to clear any obstacles plus a few inches. Reinforce the corners by welding on some gusset plates. Bolt lifting rings to the ends of the legs. A 20' stick of 3" heavy tube will set you back about $80 and welding another $50 or so. When the crane arrives, have it lift the frame using one ring and maneuver the lower leg into the boat. The upper leg will be over the cabin top. Hook the engine to the bottom leg and lift. The weight of the engine will balance the frame horizontally. When it gets high enough to clear any obstacles have the crane swing back out of the cabin and lift out all in one operation. Save the frame for use in resetting the engines. I set my 550 lb Yanmar under the cockpit single handed using a frame welded up from 2" tube, a rolling gantry cobbled together from a pair of old barn door tracks bolted to a 2x8 and a chain fall. |
#9
posted to rec.boats.building
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removing 1700lb engines; back yard
On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 22:16:01 -0500, Paul Wiggins
wrote: I need to build a contraption to remove two large, old, heavy engines. (1968 CC 427's). The boat is on stands and there's no way I know of to get a boom up, over and inside the wheelhouse. So... I'm considering building tripods on either side of the wheelhouse... running a metal I beam thru the windows over the engines... lifting... placing them a wooden bed... sliding the engine back to the rear... where a small crane can lift out. The question I have is.. what to build the tripods out of... 4x4's our of sistered 2x4's? Something beefier... I recall reading somewhere they weight in at 1700lbs. many thanks. w4 X 13 beam will easily take the load of one 1800 lb engine if the beam is supported at 8 ft centers. A tripod at each end made of three 2 by 4s will have sufficient compression strength BUT if the legs are long they could collapse in bending. Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
#10
posted to rec.boats.building
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removing 1700lb engines; back yard
Glenn has a practical suggestion as usual - but 3X3 wont do it, even
at 1/4 in thick - you need 5X5 3/16 inch wall (a standard section) if those engines are really 1700 lb. each and you want a 5 ft cantilever to be safe - and attention to the connecting section of the U. Brian Whatcott Altus OK On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 07:25:14 -0500, Paul Wiggins wrote: Glenn Ashmore wrote: Hi Glenn, Great suggestion! But ****e, Are you sure the lower leg will hold the weight? I figure the distance from the rear roof line to the center point of the engine... is 3 - 4'. Seems like the leverage would cause... snap crackle pop. Heavy walled... what thickness? thanks! -paul If you are going to have to hire a crane anyway here is a suggestion that eliminates any stress on the floors and makes removal and resetting a simple single operation that minimizes crane time. Have a "U" shape frame welded up of 3" square heavy wall steel tubing. The legs of the U should be the distance from the edge of the cabin top to the lift point of the engine plus a couple of inches and the bottom of the U should be the length needed to clear any obstacles plus a few inches. Reinforce the corners by welding on some gusset plates. Bolt lifting rings to the ends of the legs. A 20' stick of 3" heavy tube will set you back about $80 and welding another $50 or so. When the crane arrives, have it lift the frame using one ring and maneuver the lower leg into the boat. The upper leg will be over the cabin top. Hook the engine to the bottom leg and lift. The weight of the engine will balance the frame horizontally. When it gets high enough to clear any obstacles have the crane swing back out of the cabin and lift out all in one operation. Save the frame for use in resetting the engines. I set my 550 lb Yanmar under the cockpit single handed using a frame welded up from 2" tube, a rolling gantry cobbled together from a pair of old barn door tracks bolted to a 2x8 and a chain fall. |
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