Hello,

I built a Glen-L 14 a few years ago and only recently decided to install
splash boards. I cut a compound miter on two pieces of mahogany to give it
that forward sweep. Then I glued them end to end to form the V shape. I
laid them on the deck of the boat and scribed the contour of the deck onto
the boards. Then I carefully removed the material with a block plane. The
assembly lies close to the deck, but there doesn't seem to be a good way to
get it to perfectly match the contour of the deck. There are small gaps (or
large depending on your perspective, 1/8 in.). I will probably attach it
with screws from the bottom.

Q: Do I need to get it perfectly fit, or can I simply put some sort of
bedding compound down that will fill the gaps? If there is a bedding
compound, what is it? Should I use epoxy with filler or should it be
removable for future repair? What is the traditional or common way to
address this issue?

Thanks,
Brian

This may sound stupid but I'll take the chance!

How about taping a course grit sand paper to the deck then
placing the boards on the sand paper and moving them in a
sanding fashion. The sandpaper will remove the extra
material and bring the boards shape down to match the deck.
An 1/8" is lot a lot of material to remove. I would then
position the boards on the deck where you want to install
them. Trace the outline with a pencil on the deck and drill
your mounting hole from the top. Have a helper hold the
boards in the outline and predrill the mounting hole into
the boards from below. Seal the mounting edge with silicone
and install your screws. Consider the need for backing
plates on the screws if your passengers are going to use the
boards as hand holds.

John


"Brian Mahaney" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I built a Glen-L 14 a few years ago and only recently
decided to install
splash boards. I cut a compound miter on two pieces of
mahogany to give it
that forward sweep. Then I glued them end to end to form
the V shape. I
laid them on the deck of the boat and scribed the contour
of the deck onto
the boards. Then I carefully removed the material with a
block plane. The
assembly lies close to the deck, but there doesn't seem to
be a good way to
get it to perfectly match the contour of the deck. There
are small gaps (or
large depending on your perspective, 1/8 in.). I will
probably attach it
with screws from the bottom.

Q: Do I need to get it perfectly fit, or can I simply put
some sort of
bedding compound down that will fill the gaps? If there
is a bedding
compound, what is it? Should I use epoxy with filler or
should it be
removable for future repair? What is the traditional or
common way to
address this issue?

Thanks,
Brian

This may sound stupid but I'll take the chance!

How about taping a course grit sand paper to the deck then
placing the boards on the sand paper and moving them in a
sanding fashion. The sandpaper will remove the extra
material and bring the boards shape down to match the deck.

Nothing stupid about that technique at all! I've been using it for years.

However I use it just for the final corrections after I've already planed it
to a pretty close fit. I'd have the original poster scribe it again and go
back over it with the block plane to get a better fit before going the
sandpaper route, since as you say 1/8" is a lot to take off that way. I'd
just lay a pencil on its side and rescribe the splash boards. You wouldn't
need to plane all the way back to the pencil line, though; just plane away
the irregularities until the edge of the wood is the same distance from the
pencil line all the way around the piece.

Tom Dacon

Tom Dacon wrote in message
...
This may sound stupid but I'll take the chance!

How about taping a course grit sand paper to the deck then
placing the boards on the sand paper and moving them in a
sanding fashion. The sandpaper will remove the extra
material and bring the boards shape down to match the deck.

Nothing stupid about that technique at all! I've been using it for years.

However I use it just for the final corrections after I've already planed
it
to a pretty close fit. I'd have the original poster scribe it again and go
back over it with the block plane to get a better fit before going the
sandpaper route, since as you say 1/8" is a lot to take off that way. I'd
just lay a pencil on its side and rescribe the splash boards. You wouldn't
need to plane all the way back to the pencil line, though; just plane away
the irregularities until the edge of the wood is the same distance from
the
pencil line all the way around the piece.

Tom Dacon

Yeah, this sounds like a good way to go. I'll tweak it a little more with
the plane. It really shouldn't take mutch to get it closer. It's probably
a bit less than 1/8", but that seemed like the best description on the fly.
I'll try the sand paper method. It doesn't sound stupid to me either.

Thanks again,
Brian

jcassara wrote in message
t...
This may sound stupid but I'll take the chance!

How about taping a course grit sand paper to the deck then
placing the boards on the sand paper and moving them in a
sanding fashion. The sandpaper will remove the extra
material and bring the boards shape down to match the deck.
An 1/8" is lot a lot of material to remove. I would then
position the boards on the deck where you want to install
them. Trace the outline with a pencil on the deck and drill
your mounting hole from the top. Have a helper hold the
boards in the outline and predrill the mounting hole into
the boards from below. Seal the mounting edge with silicone
and install your screws. Consider the need for backing
plates on the screws if your passengers are going to use the
boards as hand holds.

John

I used the sandpaper method you describe. I taped the paper to the deck.
Then I started the sanding. Instead of sanding the whole thing, I sanded
enough to mark the "high" spots and then planed those to remove material
faster. I went through a few iterations of that and quickly came to a very
close fit. I still have to attach it when time allows, but that should go
very smoothly. Thanks for the idea.

Brian

Brian says:

snip good news

You could have saved a lot of trouble by bedding what you had in goop, then
installing mouldings either sidet like us cack-handed wood-butchers do to hide
our misteaks ("pun" intended)

Steve "NOT a builder...."

Just remember backyard mechanics rule the world!




"Stephen Baker" wrote in message
...
Brian says:

snip good news

You could have saved a lot of trouble by bedding what you
had in goop, then
installing mouldings either sidet like us cack-handed
wood-butchers do to hide
our misteaks ("pun" intended)

Steve "NOT a builder...."