Optimal anti-slip paint?
 

Floatything wrote:


"Ronald Raygun" wrote in message
. uk...
Pete C wrote:

AFAICR a possible way to get round that is to paint a second coat of
paint over the craters.

Doesn't that dull the edges of the craters, thus losing grip?

The obvious answer is to choose the colour of the paint carefully
to match that of the expected dirt.

Yes. This year I have chosen to piant my bottom with hairy green antifoul
paint. I've had trouble however, exactly matching the seagull patina on
the cabin roof - any suggestions?

Get a cat (real), or an owl (fake).

Optimal anti-slip paint?
 

Bumps are easier to keep clean than pits so sand or ground rubber additives
are popular but the paint wears off the tops of the bumps faster.

Somewhere around here I have some samples of a really professional system
for applying non-skid patterns. It comes in heavy vinyl sheets in positive
and negative versions in just about every pattern used on production boats.
The positive is applied to plugs to form the pattern on the mold and the
negative is used to apply a gel coat pattern to a finished deck. The result
is really professional looking but takes a lot of work and isn't cheap. It
is reusable though so with a little planning you can apply a fairly large
area with one sheet.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Brian D" wrote in message
. ..
I've heard of some folks using Epsom salts as well ...same effect.

Glenn, or anybody,

Know of any anti-skid treatment that a) works well, and b) does NOT turn
into a dirt and grime collector? I need to decide what to do on my aft
deck and the sheer decks (see http://www.glacierboats.com/tongass ). I'm
not worried about cost if it's the right product...

Thanks,
Brian


"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:NDYjg.112233$Ce1.49509@dukeread01...

"Ulrich G. Kliegis" wrote

And the sugar in deeper layers acts hygroscopic, i.e., it attracts
water. Not exactly what is intended.

But thanks anyway.

Regards,
U.

The way you use sugar (or salt for that matter) is to sprinkle it on
evenly with a flour sifter while the paint is still wet. Then after the
paint is cured wash it off and the crystals dissolve out.leaving a nice
uniform finely pitted surface. The only real problem is that the pits
are the shape of the crystals, often straight sided which collects dirt
and is hard to brush out completely.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Optimal anti-slip paint?
 

On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 21:35:02 GMT, Ronald Raygun
wrote:

Pete C wrote:

AFAICR a possible way to get round that is to paint a second coat of
paint over the craters.

Doesn't that dull the edges of the craters, thus losing grip?

Maybe.... I'd have thought that the slippiness is down to aquaplaning
more than anything.

Just had a thought that maybe sprinkling small crumbs of foam (same
colour) on the wet paint, then overpainting with a generous coat would
give a nice rough surface.

The obvious answer is to choose the colour of the paint carefully
to match that of the expected dirt.

True, doing the areas of anti-skid in black would help, though not in
hot weather!

cheers,
Pete.

Optimal anti-slip paint?
 

"RW Salnick" wrote in message
...
Brian D wrote:
I've heard of some folks using Epsom salts as well ...same effect.

Glenn, or anybody,

Know of any anti-skid treatment that a) works well, and b) does NOT
turn into a dirt and grime collector? I need to decide what to do on my
aft deck and the sheer decks (see http://www.glacierboats.com/tongass ).
I'm not worried about cost if it's the right product...

Thanks,
Brian
[snip]

Since the way a non-skid works is by providing a myriad of tiny edges, and
those tiny edges collect and harbor dirt, it seems that to get effective
non-skid, you have to live with dirt. It should be possible to balance
these to some extent...

I have seen a non-skid surface created out of spray-on pickup truck bed
liner with rubber granules embedded. Personally, I think it makes a great
deck surface for a work boat, but it is a little "coarse" as well as
coarse for a pleasure boat.

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Maybe, but I've heard of some rubber-like compounds that get grippier (is
that a word?) when they are wet, especially if wearing rubber soled shoes.
There must be some kind of coating that's relatively smooth while still
being appropriately grippy. OR, at least be grippy but not hard to clean.
Still thinking ...and looking.

Brian

Optimal anti-slip paint?
 

And I would think that the anti-skid treatment of a deck inside the boat has
lower requirements than the sheer deck (especially mine since I'll have no
hand rails on the boat). Sand (or similar) in paint or epoxy works well,
but my son's boat attests to the fact that it is wonderful for collecting
dirt and growing 'things'. We wash it out in the Spring with Clorox
solution and if it's still ugly, then we put another coat of Behr brand
porch paint on it.... A coat of paint is good for 3 years max.

Bought some stuff that's used for wing walks awhile back ...spendy,
especially once you consider the hazardous material shipping charges that I
got caught with. I think I'm going to test a few different methods on some
spare epoxy-coated plywood and see what I like, which is easiest to clean,
etcetera. No hurry.

Brian


"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:h30kg.112243$Ce1.78696@dukeread01...
Bumps are easier to keep clean than pits so sand or ground rubber
additives are popular but the paint wears off the tops of the bumps
faster.

Somewhere around here I have some samples of a really professional system
for applying non-skid patterns. It comes in heavy vinyl sheets in
positive and negative versions in just about every pattern used on
production boats. The positive is applied to plugs to form the pattern on
the mold and the negative is used to apply a gel coat pattern to a
finished deck. The result is really professional looking but takes a lot
of work and isn't cheap. It is reusable though so with a little planning
you can apply a fairly large area with one sheet.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Brian D" wrote in message
. ..
I've heard of some folks using Epsom salts as well ...same effect.

Glenn, or anybody,

Know of any anti-skid treatment that a) works well, and b) does NOT turn
into a dirt and grime collector? I need to decide what to do on my aft
deck and the sheer decks (see http://www.glacierboats.com/tongass ). I'm
not worried about cost if it's the right product...

Thanks,
Brian


"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:NDYjg.112233$Ce1.49509@dukeread01...

"Ulrich G. Kliegis" wrote

And the sugar in deeper layers acts hygroscopic, i.e., it attracts
water. Not exactly what is intended.

But thanks anyway.

Regards,
U.

The way you use sugar (or salt for that matter) is to sprinkle it on
evenly with a flour sifter while the paint is still wet. Then after the
paint is cured wash it off and the crystals dissolve out.leaving a nice
uniform finely pitted surface. The only real problem is that the pits
are the shape of the crystals, often straight sided which collects dirt
and is hard to brush out completely.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Optimal anti-slip paint?
 

Floatything wrote:

This year I have chosen to paint my bottom with hairy green antifoul paint.

There's really nothing more to say to that.

Pete

Optimal anti-slip paint?
 

A slightly different approach: Mask the areas where non-skid is not
desired. These areas will provide good drainage. Apply a light coat of
paint and while still tacky, sift or sprinkle silicon carbide granules over
the painted areas. When dry, remove the masking tape and paint over
everything. Surprisingly, the paint doesn't wear off the granules very
rapidly.