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Fuel Tank Construction
On Sunday 06 June 2004 11:51 am in rec.boats.building Steve Lusardi wrote:
Wayne, You must consider maintenance, so an access hatch will be needed for each baffelled compartment. I use studs, nuts and make-a-gasket RTV for the seal. The boat layout will determine where the inlet and outlet ports should be. Here, I suggest flanges, studs and gaskets or RTV. When all assembled, test at 2 psi for 24 hours. I take special care with dissimliar metals and if I have to use them, I use nylon isolators and tophats around the bolts and studs. Always check with a VOM to be sure. However, do not use these with the fuel tank. (static). Dissimiliar metals only matter when wet. No water, no ploblem. I would be concerned about chafe between the hull and the tank. Either eliminate the problem by bolting hard to the hull or use rubber shock mounts and use a bond cable across a mount for earth. Steve All good stuff, but one additional point := Each tank should have a bottom drain at the lowest point. Water contamination is a common problem for most fuels, especially diesel. Water will always settle to the bottom of the tank, it is a good idea to wait overnight after refueling to allow any water to separate and then drain the tank bottom until clean fuel comes out. It is also good practice to also do this as a regular routine inspection to prevent the buildup of condensation or inward leakage from vents and fillers. -- My real address is crn (at) netunix (dot) com WARNING all messages containing attachments or html will be silently deleted. Send only plain text. |
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