On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 19:47:57 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:
As a cost, I would estimate $3000 to $4000 per tank would be
close.

Thanks for the information, estimates are close to what I've received.

The realy BIG costs are removal and re-installation - holes to be cut,
reglassed, painted, etc.

What do you use for fittings, and do you take special precautions to
isolate dis-similar metals?

Wayne,
You must consider maintenance, so an access hatch will be needed for each
baffelled compartment. I use studs, nuts and make-a-gasket RTV for the seal.
The boat layout will determine where the inlet and outlet ports should be.
Here, I suggest flanges, studs and gaskets or RTV. When all assembled, test
at 2 psi for 24 hours. I take special care with dissimliar metals and if I
have to use them, I use nylon isolators and tophats around the bolts and
studs. Always check with a VOM to be sure. However, do not use these with
the fuel tank. (static). Dissimiliar metals only matter when wet. No water,
no ploblem. I would be concerned about chafe between the hull and the tank.
Either eliminate the problem by bolting hard to the hull or use rubber shock
mounts and use a bond cable across a mount for earth.
Steve

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 19:47:57 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:
As a cost, I would estimate $3000 to $4000 per tank would be
close.

Thanks for the information, estimates are close to what I've received.

The realy BIG costs are removal and re-installation - holes to be cut,
reglassed, painted, etc.

What do you use for fittings, and do you take special precautions to
isolate dis-similar metals?

On Sunday 06 June 2004 11:51 am in rec.boats.building Steve Lusardi wrote:

Wayne,
You must consider maintenance, so an access hatch will be needed for each
baffelled compartment. I use studs, nuts and make-a-gasket RTV for the
seal. The boat layout will determine where the inlet and outlet ports
should be. Here, I suggest flanges, studs and gaskets or RTV. When all
assembled, test at 2 psi for 24 hours. I take special care with dissimliar
metals and if I have to use them, I use nylon isolators and tophats around
the bolts and studs. Always check with a VOM to be sure. However, do not
use these with the fuel tank. (static). Dissimiliar metals only matter
when wet. No water, no ploblem. I would be concerned about chafe between
the hull and the tank. Either eliminate the problem by bolting hard to the
hull or use rubber shock mounts and use a bond cable across a mount for
earth. Steve

All good stuff, but one additional point :=
Each tank should have a bottom drain at the lowest point. Water
contamination is a common problem for most fuels, especially diesel.
Water will always settle to the bottom of the tank, it is a good idea
to wait overnight after refueling to allow any water to separate and
then drain the tank bottom until clean fuel comes out.
It is also good practice to also do this as a regular routine inspection
to prevent the buildup of condensation or inward leakage from vents and
fillers.

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