Ytter,
As a rule you should use FINE tin plated stranded wire. It should be
sheathed with either fiberglass or metal braiding. It can be ordered from an
industrial wire supply house. It cost more than other type wire, but the
overall cost difference at the job level is minimal. Just as importantly,
you should consider the mode of most common failure of wiring. That is
corrosion at the wire terminal interface. To avoid the moisture migration
cause, you should use crimp terminals without insulation and a crimping tool
that provides enough pressure that the terminal to wire connection actually
welds. Then shrink tubing is applied and after the terminal is installed the
entire connection should be painted with a rubber compound. This also can be
ordered from the industrial supplier or directly from OMC.
Steve

"Ytter" wrote in message
...
I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter

I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Ytter,
As a rule you should use FINE tin plated stranded wire. It should be
sheathed with either fiberglass or metal braiding. It can be ordered from
an
industrial wire supply house. It cost more than other type wire, but the
overall cost difference at the job level is minimal. Just as importantly,
you should consider the mode of most common failure of wiring. That is
corrosion at the wire terminal interface. To avoid the moisture migration
cause, you should use crimp terminals without insulation and a crimping
tool
that provides enough pressure that the terminal to wire connection
actually
welds. Then shrink tubing is applied and after the terminal is installed
the
entire connection should be painted with a rubber compound. This also can
be
ordered from the industrial supplier or directly from OMC.
Steve

"Ytter" wrote in message
...
I've heard different opinions what kind of wire is better for wiring
boats.Could you give me some of your expertise?
Thank You,
Ytter

QLW wrote:
I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.

Cost of assembly. It gets the boat out of the door, and it works long
enough to last until the end of the warranty.

--
the most committed always win

dazed and confuzed wrote:


Cost of assembly. It gets the boat out of the door, and it works long
enough to last until the end of the warranty.


I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder
gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion.

Tom
of the Swee****er Sea

I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder
gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion.


wrong. solder connections fail under high load conditions.

CRIMP for current, solder for corrosion resistence. In that order.

Would you mind explaining exactly how a solder connection fails "under high
load conditions" If a wire gets hot enough to melt solder then that circuit
is greatly overloaded and the fuse should have failed long before reaching
that point.

"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder
gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion.


wrong. solder connections fail under high load conditions.

CRIMP for current, solder for corrosion resistence. In that order.

Would you mind explaining exactly how a solder connection fails "under high
load conditions"

when the connection is soldered it lacks mechanical integrity. solder is soft
and any chance of movement -- any, even walking on a floor near the equipment
in a building -- loosens the connection until it eventualy fails. Even if
after soldering the connection is clamped TIGHTLY with a mechanical clamp it
eventually fails.

If the connection is FIRST clamped TIGHTLY mechanically and _then_ soldered for
corrosion protection all if right and holy.

Tom, you are incorrect. A solder joint under vibration can easily create a
resistive connection and it can be undetectable until it overheats. Please
review my previous advice and use a crimping tool that creats a very high
pressure crimp.
Steve

"Tom Shilson" wrote in message
...
dazed and confuzed wrote:


Cost of assembly. It gets the boat out of the door, and it works long
enough to last until the end of the warranty.


I agree. The crimp is for a solid mechanical connection. The solder
gives a good electrical connection and resists corrosion.

Tom
of the Swee****er Sea

One argument against soldered connections is that the molten solder can wick
up into the stranded wire and stiffen the wire back to a hard spot which, being
concealed by the insulation, can fatigue without being seen.



QLW wrote:

I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.

I usually solder connector on my boat and have never found this to fail.
I've never see this done but the manufacturers so there must be some
negative reason but I've not found it.

solder connections fail under high load conditions