Hello,

What is the drawback by using only PU satin varnish..?? I got a small
boat, and don't feel like buying double amount of varnish, just to get

satin look.

PS - anyone got a picture of a boat that has been varnished with
satin..??

Cheers
--
steen - menzi.dk
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"steen" wrote...

What is the drawback by using only PU satin varnish..?? I got a small
boat, and don't feel like buying double amount of varnish, just to get
satin look.

Dunno for sure...

Of the various brands I looked at last fall when shopping for satin varnish,
only 1 or 2 recommended gloss varnish as the base coat[s]. HOWEVER, most of
the satins are rated for interior use only. Maybe they aren't designed to
hold up under hard use, weather, or UV.

I did the floorboards of my boat with Interlux satin. I started with a
sealer coat of epoxy, then 2 coats of gloss Z-Spar Captains, then 3 coats of
the satin, sanding with 240 after the epoxy and gloss coats, and 320 between
the satin coats. Turned out VERY well!

I saw one boat last fall where the owner revarnished previously glossy rails
with satin. It looked terrible up close -- brush strokes galore! I don't
know how he prepared it, or what varnishes he used. Proper preparation is
worth the time invested!

On Sun, 23 May 2004 22:49:19 UTC, "John R Weiss"
wrote:

the satins are rated for interior use only. Maybe they aren't designed to
hold up under hard use, weather, or UV.

This is the case. Thanks!
--
steen - menzi.dk
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steen wrote:

On Sun, 23 May 2004 22:49:19 UTC, "John R Weiss"
wrote:

the satins are rated for interior use only. Maybe they aren't designed to
hold up under hard use, weather, or UV.

This is the case. Thanks!

You can easily achieve a satin finish with gloss varnish by rubbing it
out with fine Scotchbrite, steel wool or bronze wool. It's actually a
bit nicer than using satin varnish, since you don't have the flatting
agent hiding the wood grain.

On Tue, 25 May 2004 21:14:41 UTC, Brian Nystrom
wrote:

You can easily achieve a satin finish with gloss varnish by rubbing it
out with fine Scotchbrite, steel wool or bronze wool.

Aha - my 'interest' in the satin look actually came from the process
of sanding and washing the epoxy.

Cheers
--
steen - menzi.dk
Ready for OpenOffice?
---

steen wrote:

On Tue, 25 May 2004 21:14:41 UTC, Brian Nystrom
wrote:


You can easily achieve a satin finish with gloss varnish by rubbing it
out with fine Scotchbrite, steel wool or bronze wool.


Aha - my 'interest' in the satin look actually came from the process
of sanding and washing the epoxy.

Wet sanding with 600-800 grit will also work.

"Brian Nystrom" wrote...

You can easily achieve a satin finish with gloss varnish by rubbing it
out with fine Scotchbrite, steel wool or bronze wool. It's actually a
bit nicer than using satin varnish, since you don't have the flatting
agent hiding the wood grain.

The Interlux satin varnish I used as final coats on my floorboards doesn't
significantly hide the grain. Maybe I'll try the bronze wool on the gloss
varnish next time, but it sounds like more work (and risk) than I'd like...

To me there is also a practical consideration to using only Gloss varnish.

1} You only need to 'stock' ONE product.
I primarily use the West Marine 'housebrand' with UV inhibitors added {a
'short oil' varnish}. Whenever it goes on sale {at VERY good price - used
as a 'loss leader'}I pick up a quart and put it away. When the occasion
calls for a SPAR varnish {a 'long oil' varnish, I use any of a
couple of brands available at the local HD, etc. There is no need for me to
keep more than a single quart on hand. NOTE: the last can of West Marine I
bought indicated specifically that it was made for them by ZAR . . . whose
products can be purchased at HD, etc.

2} You can 'adjust' the final sheen - {High Gloss, 'Light Satin', 'Heavy
Satin', Matte} - to what YOU define each to be.
The simple process of wiping a 3-M {'Scotchbrite'}pad {available in about 5
or 6 'grades' from Ultra-Fine to Course}across the surface will do the job.
Plus it can be 'renewed' if it gets rubbed back to a gloss by normal contact
with the environment.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"John R Weiss" wrote in message
news:xuwtc.5831$eY2.732@attbi_s02...
"Brian Nystrom" wrote...

You can easily achieve a satin finish with gloss varnish by rubbing it
out with fine Scotchbrite, steel wool or bronze wool. It's actually a
bit nicer than using satin varnish, since you don't have the flatting
agent hiding the wood grain.

The Interlux satin varnish I used as final coats on my floorboards doesn't
significantly hide the grain. Maybe I'll try the bronze wool on the gloss
varnish next time, but it sounds like more work (and risk) than I'd
like...

John R Weiss wrote:

"Brian Nystrom" wrote...

You can easily achieve a satin finish with gloss varnish by rubbing it
out with fine Scotchbrite, steel wool or bronze wool. It's actually a
bit nicer than using satin varnish, since you don't have the flatting
agent hiding the wood grain.


The Interlux satin varnish I used as final coats on my floorboards doesn't
significantly hide the grain. Maybe I'll try the bronze wool on the gloss
varnish next time, but it sounds like more work (and risk) than I'd like...

Used as only a top coat, I wouldn't imagine that satin varnish would
have much of a hiding effect.

Ron beat me to the punch on the stocking and renewal issues.

Actually, dulling a gloss finish isn't much work. You're not sanding
hard and you're using very fine grain abrasives. You will produce a fair
amount of fine dust unless you wet the surface, but that makes it harder
to tell if it's uniform.

Of the various brands I looked at last fall when shopping for satin
varnish,
only 1 or 2 recommended gloss varnish as the base coat[s]. HOWEVER, most
of
the satins are rated for interior use only. Maybe they aren't designed to
hold up under hard use, weather, or UV.

Epifanes has a UV resistant satin. I used it on my windowsills, looks good
but it's
obviously an interior application, so I can't tell you how well it holds up
outside.

Matt