Inspecting Standing Rigging
What specific signs of wear am I looking for in the swages of the
standing rigging? I check for any mechanical damage I can see, especially cracks. Are there other things to look for? There usually is slight surface rust on the stainless, which I scrub off w/ WD40 to check for cracks. Thanks! Chris |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
Run your hand over the wire. It should be perfectly round but if there
is a failure, even inside the swage, sometimes the wire distorts. Dye testing is always a good idea. -- Tom. |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
How does dye testing work? Thanks! |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
How does dye testing work? Thanks! |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
How does dye testing work? Thanks! |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
Chris wrote:
How does dye testing work? Thanks! Probably not too well on cables. The dye gets between the strands and messes up the mess. Use TOWEL for the first pass? Not your hand... |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
Chris wrote:
What specific signs of wear am I looking for in the swages of the standing rigging? I check for any mechanical damage I can see, especially cracks. Are there other things to look for? There usually is slight surface rust on the stainless, which I scrub off w/ WD40 to check for cracks. Cracks are about all you can see. If you want a real inspection you need to use a dye process which shows small cracks better. |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
So how does this dye test work? |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
"Chris" wrote in message oups.com... So how does this dye test work? Chris - You don't seem to be getting an answer to your question. Cracks in welds etc are often better seen after treatment with a dye penetrant. This is sometimes sprayed on. have a look at this Magnaflux web site then do your own search. http://www.magnaflux.com/index.asp I worked as a yacht rigger for many years. I consulted with metallurgical engineers who also happened to be sailors. They said that by the time a dye penetrant would help, it was too late! The problem is that the cracks start from inside the swage and work their way outwards. We confirmed this by cutting through swages that shows small external cracks and making a polished section - There were many more cracks that were not visible but which we could see under a powerful microscope. The cracks start at a crevice where the swage has not fully surrounded a wire strand. At this point, the stainless steel is under stress from swaging and there are often chlorides present and a lack of oxygen. Apparently these are ideal conditions for Chloride Stress cracking to occur. We found that the only way we could delay cracking, was to seal the fitting when we made the swage. We sometimes did this by adding a small amount of epoxy to the wire near the end of the swage. The heat from the swaging process caused the epoxy to run and fill all the voids and also make a neat bead at the end of the swage. Others have used bees wax, nail polish and other materials to seal the swages so as to keep the salt atmosphere out. So far as inspection is concerned, we would clean up the swages using fine emery paper or synthetic cleaning pads. We would then look at the fitting through a strong magnifying glass. In particular, look at the edges of the swage where the wire enters - that is where cracks often start. Since there is really no good way to inspect, best solution is to replace rigging on a regular basis - In freshwater, this may not be necessary - the wire likely will fail first due to fatigue. In salt water, about every 7 to 10 years depending on temperature of area should be OK. I have been out of the business for some time, so if anyone knows better, please feel free to correct the above! Hope this helps! |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
Very Basic...........The dye gets trapped in the crack and causes the crack
to stand out better. "Chris" wrote in message oups.com... So how does this dye test work? |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
Chris wrote:
What specific signs of wear am I looking for in the swages of the standing rigging? I check for any mechanical damage I can see, especially cracks. Are there other things to look for? There usually is slight surface rust on the stainless, which I scrub off w/ WD40 to check for cracks. Thanks! Chris Use a 8x loupe to inspect for cracks at the swages. You'll see them much sooner. Check after scrubbing Evan Gatehouse |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
John Cassara wrote:
Very Basic...........The dye gets trapped in the crack and causes the crack to stand out better. "Chris" wrote in message oups.com... So how does this dye test work? But cables that have multiple strands will always look "failed"... The dye gets trapped between the strands. |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
cavelamb wrote: John Cassara wrote: Very Basic...........The dye gets trapped in the crack and causes the crack to stand out better. "Chris" wrote in message oups.com... So how does this dye test work? But cables that have multiple strands will always look "failed"... The dye gets trapped between the strands. I had thought the 20 yrear old rigging on my 28' S2 was good because it had no sharp spots and seemed to look good with close visual inspection. BUT, the mast was down and I had read an article in "Seaworthy" about rigging inspection with a magnifier so I did this. I was shocked to find cracks in ALL of the lower swages. At first they were hard to find but soon I learned that they are almost always under a small rusty looking spot which you remove with fine sandpaper.. All the cracks ran lengthwise in the swages and were in the body of the swages rather than at the edge where the wire goes in. Being curious, I decided to do dye penetrant testing. This showed absolutely nothing at all as the dye would not go into the cracks for some reason. The cracks were clearly visible under a 10X loupe and were real cracks. I replaced all of the rigging and lifelines. That was close. |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
Thanks! That was exactly the information
and pointers I was looking for. Chris GBM wrote: "Chris" wrote in message oups.com... So how does this dye test work? Chris - You don't seem to be getting an answer to your question. Cracks in welds etc are often better seen after treatment with a dye penetrant. This is sometimes sprayed on. have a look at this Magnaflux web site then do your own search. http://www.magnaflux.com/index.asp I worked as a yacht rigger for many years. I consulted with metallurgical engineers who also happened to be sailors. They said that by the time a dye penetrant would help, it was too late! The problem is that the cracks start from inside the swage and work their way outwards. We confirmed this by cutting through swages that shows small external cracks and making a polished section - There were many more cracks that were not visible but which we could see under a powerful microscope. The cracks start at a crevice where the swage has not fully surrounded a wire strand. At this point, the stainless steel is under stress from swaging and there are often chlorides present and a lack of oxygen. Apparently these are ideal conditions for Chloride Stress cracking to occur. We found that the only way we could delay cracking, was to seal the fitting when we made the swage. We sometimes did this by adding a small amount of epoxy to the wire near the end of the swage. The heat from the swaging process caused the epoxy to run and fill all the voids and also make a neat bead at the end of the swage. Others have used bees wax, nail polish and other materials to seal the swages so as to keep the salt atmosphere out. So far as inspection is concerned, we would clean up the swages using fine emery paper or synthetic cleaning pads. We would then look at the fitting through a strong magnifying glass. In particular, look at the edges of the swage where the wire enters - that is where cracks often start. Since there is really no good way to inspect, best solution is to replace rigging on a regular basis - In freshwater, this may not be necessary - the wire likely will fail first due to fatigue. In salt water, about every 7 to 10 years depending on temperature of area should be OK. I have been out of the business for some time, so if anyone knows better, please feel free to correct the above! Hope this helps! |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
So the lower ones are more likely to derteriorate earlier, as they are 'open' side up and in constant contact w/ sal****er that can creep into any open caillary? Good, they are much easier to check. :) Evan Gatehouse wrote: Chris wrote: What specific signs of wear am I looking for in the swages of the standing rigging? I check for any mechanical damage I can see, especially cracks. Are there other things to look for? There usually is slight surface rust on the stainless, which I scrub off w/ WD40 to check for cracks. Thanks! Chris Use a 8x loupe to inspect for cracks at the swages. You'll see them much sooner. Check after scrubbing Evan Gatehouse |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
GBM wrote:
quite well, actually. Sorry for missing the OP's focus, but I didn't miss your reply. Chris - You don't seem to be getting an answer to your question. Cracks in welds etc are often better seen after treatment with a dye penetrant. This is sometimes sprayed on. have a look at this Magnaflux web site then do your own search. http://www.magnaflux.com/index.asp I worked as a yacht rigger for many years. I consulted with metallurgical engineers who also happened to be sailors. They said that by the time a dye penetrant would help, it was too late! The problem is that the cracks start from inside the swage and work their way outwards. We confirmed this by cutting through swages that shows small external cracks and making a polished section - There were many more cracks that were not visible but which we could see under a powerful microscope. The cracks start at a crevice where the swage has not fully surrounded a wire strand. At this point, the stainless steel is under stress from swaging and there are often chlorides present and a lack of oxygen. Apparently these are ideal conditions for Chloride Stress cracking to occur. We found that the only way we could delay cracking, was to seal the fitting when we made the swage. We sometimes did this by adding a small amount of epoxy to the wire near the end of the swage. The heat from the swaging process caused the epoxy to run and fill all the voids and also make a neat bead at the end of the swage. Others have used bees wax, nail polish and other materials to seal the swages so as to keep the salt atmosphere out. So far as inspection is concerned, we would clean up the swages using fine emery paper or synthetic cleaning pads. We would then look at the fitting through a strong magnifying glass. In particular, look at the edges of the swage where the wire enters - that is where cracks often start. Since there is really no good way to inspect, best solution is to replace rigging on a regular basis - In freshwater, this may not be necessary - the wire likely will fail first due to fatigue. In salt water, about every 7 to 10 years depending on temperature of area should be OK. I have been out of the business for some time, so if anyone knows better, please feel free to correct the above! Hope this helps! |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
Are solid stainless steel rods any less vulnerable?
What alloy is used for major standing rigging; there must be some less prone to chloride/stress attack, or? I worked with some higher than 316 plus extra titanium alloy(32?) for seawater boiler; it was a much better choice than regular 316. I am not sure if this alloy is being offered in steel rope shape. Any one knows more about it? thanks |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
noexpert wrote:
Are solid stainless steel rods any less vulnerable? What alloy is used for major standing rigging; there must be some less prone to chloride/stress attack, or? I worked with some higher than 316 plus extra titanium alloy(32?) for seawater boiler; it was a much better choice than regular 316. I am not sure if this alloy is being offered in steel rope shape. Any one knows more about it? thanks Most sailboat rigging is 304. Some is 316 but it's a bit weaker than 304 (about 10%). Rod rigging is usually Nitronic 50. More corrosion resistance but no warning of failure like broken strands. About twice the cost of wire rope so it's restricted to racing boats Evan Gatehouse |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
noexpert wrote:
Are solid stainless steel rods any less vulnerable? What alloy is used for major standing rigging; there must be some less prone to chloride/stress attack, or? I worked with some higher than 316 plus extra titanium alloy(32?) for seawater boiler; it was a much better choice than regular 316. I am not sure if this alloy is being offered in steel rope shape. Any one knows more about it? thanks Just a suspicion, but it seems to me that the problem here is a result of the swaging process itself. When the swage is squeezed, there should be uneven compression which would cause the material to yield unevenly - leading to rather high localized stress concentrations. In-service vibration, over time, should lead to exactly the kind of cracks described by GBM. FWIW, for highly stressed aircraft cables, the terminals (ends) are *Rolled* rather than squoze... Richard |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
"cavelamb" wrote Just a suspicion, but it seems to me that the problem here is a result of the swaging process itself. When the swage is squeezed, there should be uneven compression which would cause the material to yield unevenly - leading to rather high localized stress concentrations. In-service vibration, over time, should lead to exactly the kind of cracks described by GBM. FWIW, for highly stressed aircraft cables, the terminals (ends) are *Rolled* rather than squoze... Richard Could be, but experience shows that this type of failure does not occur in fresh water. The experts advise that it is the presence of chlorides in crevices with an oxygen deficient atmosphere and stress that cause the failure. The whole swage and the wire strands are stressed to various degrees. GBM |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
"noexpert" wrote in message ... Are solid stainless steel rods any less vulnerable? What alloy is used for major standing rigging; there must be some less prone to chloride/stress attack, or? I worked with some higher than 316 plus extra titanium alloy(32?) for seawater boiler; it was a much better choice than regular 316. I am not sure if this alloy is being offered in steel rope shape. Any one knows more about it? thanks Navtec rod rigging uses an alloy they call "Nitronic". It is supposed to be much more resistant to corrosion than the alloys commonly used in wire rigging and turnbuckles. |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
I remember the collapse of a public pool ceiling killing a number of peoples
in switzerland some years ago. The hang up ceiling was supported by hidden 304 type (18-8) S-hooks behind and out of sight for inspection. I recall the report stating that the chloride laden pool air and humidity exposed the hooks causing this intercristaline corrosion leading to sudden failure to support loads. As I understand the engineering world in Europe took note and better suited s/s alloys are utilised now. If rigging for ocean going boats is still made from 304, I think it amounts to criminal negligence to continue to equip boots with these essential structural members in a maritime environment where plenty of chloride (salt) are present. Having worked with both 304 , 316 and others the price difference of those different alloys were not really the mainconcern but mainly to get the right stock for the task on hand. I am not clear what the nitronic s/s alloy is made of, but if it is more suitable why bother with 304 at all. |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
GBM wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote Just a suspicion, but it seems to me that the problem here is a result of the swaging process itself. When the swage is squeezed, there should be uneven compression which would cause the material to yield unevenly - leading to rather high localized stress concentrations. In-service vibration, over time, should lead to exactly the kind of cracks described by GBM. FWIW, for highly stressed aircraft cables, the terminals (ends) are *Rolled* rather than squoze... Richard Could be, but experience shows that this type of failure does not occur in fresh water. The experts advise that it is the presence of chlorides in crevices with an oxygen deficient atmosphere and stress that cause the failure. The whole swage and the wire strands are stressed to various degrees. GBM Capillary action would draw water up the wires and into the fittings. Sea water there would be a bad thing (tm) that would aggressively attack the small surface fractures in the fitting. Your point about sealing the swedged fitting with epoxy should reduce the susceptibility quite nicely just by sealing the open end of the wire and fitting. Keep the nasty old sea water out of those tender places... Richard |
Inspecting Standing Rigging
"GBM" writes:
"Chris" wrote in message oups.com... So how does this dye test work? Chris - You don't seem to be getting an answer to your question. Cracks in welds etc are often better seen after treatment with a dye penetrant. This is sometimes sprayed on. have a look at this Magnaflux web site then do your own search. http://www.magnaflux.com/index.asp I worked as a yacht rigger for many years. I consulted with metallurgical snip Hope this helps! Great post. Anyone on the expected life span and inspectability of the synthetic rigging now adapted by racers? -- ================================================== ====================== Martin Schöön "Problems worthy of attack prove their worth by hitting back" Piet Hein ================================================== ====================== |
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