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Adam May 12th 04 08:01 PM

Loctite for bolts
 
I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 - floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4" &
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam




JSE May 12th 04 08:28 PM

Loctite for bolts
 
No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in the
future.
Joe


"Adam" wrote in message
...
I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 -

floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4"

&
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam






Brian Nystrom May 13th 04 03:08 PM

Loctite for bolts
 
JSE wrote:

No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in the
future.


If you use Loctite #222 (pink/purple - low strength) or #242 (blue -
medium strength), the fasteners can be readily taken apart at a later
date. These two formulations are specifically designed for that. Loctite
#271 (red - high strength) is designed to be essentially permanent and
wouldn't be suitable.


Adam May 13th 04 03:49 PM

Loctite for bolts
 
Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the
future.
Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is
done permanently.
What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future?
Adam
"Brian Nystrom" wrote in message
...
JSE wrote:

No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in

the
future.


If you use Loctite #222 (pink/purple - low strength) or #242 (blue -
medium strength), the fasteners can be readily taken apart at a later
date. These two formulations are specifically designed for that. Loctite
#271 (red - high strength) is designed to be essentially permanent and
wouldn't be suitable.




May 13th 04 08:03 PM

Loctite for bolts
 
In case anything goes wrong.


"Adam" wrote in message
...
Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the
future.
Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is
done permanently.
What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future?
Adam




JSE May 14th 04 02:55 AM

Loctite for bolts
 
It's been my experience that whatever you mess with starts a cascade effect
on the parts around it. Whether it be from the way the new verses old parts
handle stress differently or if you just miss something or mess up in the
measurements. You may also decide on design changes down the road. No matter
what, I'll always recommend stainless and nylock at sea.....corrosion does
weird things to all materials that aren't water.
Joe


"Adam" wrote in message
...
Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the
future.
Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is
done permanently.
What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future?
Adam
"Brian Nystrom" wrote in message
...
JSE wrote:

No. Use stainless steel with nylock. they are much easier to remove in

the
future.


If you use Loctite #222 (pink/purple - low strength) or #242 (blue -
medium strength), the fasteners can be readily taken apart at a later
date. These two formulations are specifically designed for that. Loctite
#271 (red - high strength) is designed to be essentially permanent and
wouldn't be suitable.






dazed and confuzed May 14th 04 03:15 AM

Loctite for bolts
 
JSE wrote:
It's been my experience that whatever you mess with starts a cascade effect
on the parts around it. Whether it be from the way the new verses old parts
handle stress differently or if you just miss something or mess up in the
measurements. You may also decide on design changes down the road. No matter
what, I'll always recommend stainless and nylock at sea.....corrosion does
weird things to all materials that aren't water.
Joe

Why is nylock better than Loctite?



--
the most committed always win


Jim Conlin May 14th 04 06:20 AM

Loctite for bolts
 
To get back to the original question, if you're simply bolting timber parts
together and it's not an offshore powerboat, loctite, lock washers and nylocks
are not needed. Friction does the job.

Adam wrote:

I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 - floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4" &
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam



Brian Nystrom May 14th 04 01:22 PM

Loctite for bolts
 
dazed and confuzed wrote:

JSE wrote:

It's been my experience that whatever you mess with starts a cascade
effect
on the parts around it. Whether it be from the way the new verses old
parts
handle stress differently or if you just miss something or mess up in the
measurements. You may also decide on design changes down the road. No
matter
what, I'll always recommend stainless and nylock at sea.....corrosion
does
weird things to all materials that aren't water.
Joe


Why is nylock better than Loctite?


Well, I guess they're simpler and more durable if the fasteners are
disassembled multiple times. Other than that, I don't think there is any
advantage. Nyloc nuts are definitely much more expensive, bulkier
and heavier than regular nuts and Loctite.


Brian Nystrom May 14th 04 01:24 PM

Loctite for bolts
 


Adam wrote:

Thanks for info, but I do not understand why I'll have to remove it in the
future.
Anyway I use epoxy glue to bound stiffeners and floors together, and it is
done permanently.
What for I'll need to disassembly this in the future?


I don't know that you would. I was just trying to clarify a point that
was made in a previous post that indicated that using Loctite could be
problematic. Using the correct Loctite formulation for the application
is all that's necessary.


Glenn Ashmore May 14th 04 03:25 PM

Loctite for bolts
 


Brian Nystrom wrote:

Well, I guess they're simpler and more durable if the fasteners are
disassembled multiple times. Other than that, I don't think there is any
advantage. Nyloc nuts are definitely much more expensive, bulkier
and heavier than regular nuts and Loctite.


Also, Nylocks should not be trusted if removed more than once or twice.
If something is that critical and needs to be removed often, castle
nuts and safety wire are the ultimate solution.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com


JSE May 15th 04 12:47 PM

Loctite for bolts
 
Ok Adam,
Are you thoroughly confused yet? Back to the original
question............you can use loctite, however, in my 22+ years in the
U.S.Navy, it has been my experience that nyloc coupled to SS nuts and bolts
is a beautiful thing. There is no mess to clean up, the additional cost and
weight are minimal at worst, and best of all no corrosion to worry about at
all. The nyloc is injected into a hole drilled into the side of the bolt
during the mfr process. On the nut, there is a lip added during the molding,
which is filled with nylon. You buy them, you screw them together, tighten
and forget them. They will not loosen over time, degrade or be impossible
for future removal (if you ever need it). In short, the additional few cents
per nut and bolt is excellent peace of mind down the road. For the rest of
you well meaning lads.....I recommend "Screw loose" by CRC.
Joe



"Adam" wrote in message
...
I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 -

floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4"

&
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam






Brian Whatcott May 15th 04 01:32 PM

Loctite for bolts
 
OK but not on hot engine parts

Brian W

On Sat, 15 May 2004 07:47:23 -0400, "JSE" wrote:

Ok Adam,
Are you thoroughly confused yet? Back to the original
question............you can use loctite, however, in my 22+ years in the
U.S.Navy, it has been my experience that nyloc coupled to SS nuts and bolts
is a beautiful thing. There is no mess to clean up, the additional cost and
weight are minimal at worst, and best of all no corrosion to worry about at
all. The nyloc is injected into a hole drilled into the side of the bolt
during the mfr process. On the nut, there is a lip added during the molding,
which is filled with nylon. You buy them, you screw them together, tighten
and forget them. They will not loosen over time, degrade or be impossible
for future removal (if you ever need it). In short, the additional few cents
per nut and bolt is excellent peace of mind down the road. For the rest of
you well meaning lads.....I recommend "Screw loose" by CRC.
Joe



"Adam" wrote in message
...
I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 -

floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3", 4"

&
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam






Adam May 17th 04 12:36 PM

Loctite for bolts
 
Thanks Joe;
You are right - totally confused. As always, common sense, and the true is
still somewhere in between.
For floor and stiffeners I will use loctite. For other application like deck
shelf I will go with nyloc.
Once again
Thanks you
Adam
"JSE" wrote in message ...
Ok Adam,
Are you thoroughly confused yet? Back to the original
question............you can use loctite, however, in my 22+ years in the
U.S.Navy, it has been my experience that nyloc coupled to SS nuts and

bolts
is a beautiful thing. There is no mess to clean up, the additional cost

and
weight are minimal at worst, and best of all no corrosion to worry about

at
all. The nyloc is injected into a hole drilled into the side of the bolt
during the mfr process. On the nut, there is a lip added during the

molding,
which is filled with nylon. You buy them, you screw them together, tighten
and forget them. They will not loosen over time, degrade or be impossible
for future removal (if you ever need it). In short, the additional few

cents
per nut and bolt is excellent peace of mind down the road. For the rest of
you well meaning lads.....I recommend "Screw loose" by CRC.
Joe



"Adam" wrote in message
...
I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 -

floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8" 3",

4"
&
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam








JSE May 18th 04 03:07 AM

Loctite for bolts
 
Glad to help...happy sailing.....or as we say in the Navy " Fair Winds and
Following Seas"
Joe



"Adam" wrote in message
...
Thanks Joe;
You are right - totally confused. As always, common sense, and the true is
still somewhere in between.
For floor and stiffeners I will use loctite. For other application like

deck
shelf I will go with nyloc.
Once again
Thanks you
Adam
"JSE" wrote in message ...
Ok Adam,
Are you thoroughly confused yet? Back to the original
question............you can use loctite, however, in my 22+ years in the
U.S.Navy, it has been my experience that nyloc coupled to SS nuts and

bolts
is a beautiful thing. There is no mess to clean up, the additional cost

and
weight are minimal at worst, and best of all no corrosion to worry about

at
all. The nyloc is injected into a hole drilled into the side of the bolt
during the mfr process. On the nut, there is a lip added during the

molding,
which is filled with nylon. You buy them, you screw them together,

tighten
and forget them. They will not loosen over time, degrade or be

impossible
for future removal (if you ever need it). In short, the additional few

cents
per nut and bolt is excellent peace of mind down the road. For the rest

of
you well meaning lads.....I recommend "Screw loose" by CRC.
Joe



"Adam" wrote in message
...
I'm going to install floor stiffeners (2"x4" cedar sealed 3x by S1 -

floors
are 1/2" marine plywood sealed as well) using machine SS bolts 3/8"

3",
4"
&
5" long.
Should I use any of Lctie for the nuts?
Thanks in advance
Adam











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