Has anyone ever used drywall screws (the black ones for screwing
plasterboard - I think you call it sheetrock in the US- onto metal
studs and plastering over) for holding the strips in the right
alignment, instead of wooden dowels and/or plywood cleats, or is it a
really dumb idea? I mean just for those annoying bits where the new
strip won't quite line up over the one in place.

The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would. I've used
them for fixing things into wood for years and never noticed any
detrimental effect, so I doubt that they would cause an damage to the
wood, assuming a pilot hole was drilled first.

It's just that they are so cheap and are so easy and quick to screw
in.

Another Pete

I used 10 pounds of drywall screws on my cedar strips but made sure to
remove them all. Took 3 days to unscrew them all and another day
sweeping the hull with a metal detector to make sure I got them all.

Given time they WILL rust. Even under epoxy.

peter wrote:
Has anyone ever used drywall screws (the black ones for screwing
plasterboard - I think you call it sheetrock in the US- onto metal
studs and plastering over) for holding the strips in the right
alignment, instead of wooden dowels and/or plywood cleats, or is it a
really dumb idea? I mean just for those annoying bits where the new
strip won't quite line up over the one in place.

The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would. I've used
them for fixing things into wood for years and never noticed any
detrimental effect, so I doubt that they would cause an damage to the
wood, assuming a pilot hole was drilled first.

It's just that they are so cheap and are so easy and quick to screw
in.

Another Pete

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Drywall screws are real handy around the house ... but ... I would not use
them around the boat ... they do "rust" ... and quickly.

peter wrote in message
...
Has anyone ever used drywall screws (the black ones for screwing
plasterboard - I think you call it sheetrock in the US- onto metal
studs and plastering over) for holding the strips in the right
alignment, instead of wooden dowels and/or plywood cleats, or is it a
really dumb idea? I mean just for those annoying bits where the new
strip won't quite line up over the one in place.

The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would. I've used
them for fixing things into wood for years and never noticed any
detrimental effect, so I doubt that they would cause an damage to the
wood, assuming a pilot hole was drilled first.

It's just that they are so cheap and are so easy and quick to screw
in.

Another Pete

peter writes:

Has anyone ever used drywall screws (the black ones for screwing
plasterboard - I think you call it sheetrock in the US- onto metal
studs and plastering over) for holding the strips in the right
alignment, instead of wooden dowels and/or plywood cleats, or is it a
really dumb idea?

Have probably used at least 100 lbs of deck screws (coarse thread).

Built the male mold, and endless numbers of jigs, templates, etc.

All of these items would be classed as temporary construction.

Even used them to build the bulkheads which consisted of two sheets of 1/2",
4 ply, CDX plywood glued and screwed together with deck screws and then
glassed over on each side with 2 layers of 24 oz double bias glass and
epoxy.

Those deck screws are buried inside all that glass and resin. It was easier
to grind them flush than to unscrew them and then plug the holes.

They may rust, but I doubt it, and if they do, it's NBD, since they are
strictly now little more than core material.

For your application, I'd probably remove them where possible.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

On Mon, 03 May 2004 23:17:03 +0200, peter
wrote:

The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would.

==============================================

The standard screws will rust, it's just a matter of time. You can
get them in either galvanized or stainless steel however.

Isn't it just as easy to use a staple gun and long staples, driven in over
small pieces of heavy plastic to make location and removal easy later?

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 May 2004 23:17:03 +0200, peter
wrote:

The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would.

==============================================

The standard screws will rust, it's just a matter of time. You can
get them in either galvanized or stainless steel however.

Depends on the size of the project. Staples are OK for a canoe or
dinghy but my strips were 1.125" thick. Staples would not have worked.

auerbach wrote:
Isn't it just as easy to use a staple gun and long staples, driven in over
small pieces of heavy plastic to make location and removal easy later?

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...

On Mon, 03 May 2004 23:17:03 +0200, peter
wrote:


The screws don't rust as far as I know and as the whole lot is
encapsulated in epoxy afterwards I doubt if they ever would.

==============================================

The standard screws will rust, it's just a matter of time. You can
get them in either galvanized or stainless steel however.





--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

On Mon, 03 May 2004 22:28:47 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:
Depends on the size of the project. Staples are OK for a canoe or
dinghy but my strips were 1.125" thick. Staples would not have worked.

================================================== ======

With stips that thick, at what point are you able to remove the
screws?

Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 03 May 2004 22:28:47 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

Depends on the size of the project. Staples are OK for a canoe or
dinghy but my strips were 1.125" thick. Staples would not have worked.


================================================== ======

With stips that thick, at what point are you able to remove the
screws?

I pulled them as soon as the planking was finished so I would not grind
into the heads while doing the rough fairing.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"auerbach" writes:

Isn't it just as easy to use a staple gun and long staples, driven in over
small pieces of heavy plastic to make location and removal easy later?

The short answer is "NO".

The long answer is still "NO".

I've used the staple trick you describe /w/ a pneumatic staple gun, several
times, just not here.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures