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#1
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I scored 350 kg of lead over the weekend for free from various tires
centres. I found outwhat the trick is.... go to tire centres where they sell a lot of mag wheels... they use adhesive backing instead of clips to attach to the wheel. I still have weights with clips but not as many. In the mortal words of Homer Simpson...YoooHooo!!!! They are to go int a hollow fin keel for a hartley 21. Should I fust pour them in and cover with epoxy or should I melt the lead and poor into the keel? |
#2
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There is no question, melting in the right way to go.
One year one of the English designed and build sailboat flipped over and sunk. For a while nobody knew exactly what took place. Once the sailboat was on land they soon learned that a hole had been punctures in the encapsulated keel and all the lead pellets were gone. They concluded that at one time the sailboat may have been aground and damaged the fibreglass encapsulating the keel. Over time the lead pellets dropped out of the encapsulated keel leaving the boat with no more ballast. "sam" wrote in message ... I scored 350 kg of lead over the weekend for free from various tires centres. I found outwhat the trick is.... go to tire centres where they sell a lot of mag wheels... they use adhesive backing instead of clips to attach to the wheel. I still have weights with clips but not as many. In the mortal words of Homer Simpson...YoooHooo!!!! They are to go int a hollow fin keel for a hartley 21. Should I fust pour them in and cover with epoxy or should I melt the lead and poor into the keel? |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Or you could cast them into blocks to closely fit in the cavity, then fill
the gaps with smaller pellets to then be epoxy encapsulated. (I've done this sort of thing with iron/steel, w/o the epoxy, to make a counterweight) I've never cast lead, but would be more concerned with the risk Mike mentions. "sam" wrote in message ... I scored 350 kg of lead over the weekend for free from various tires centres. I found outwhat the trick is.... go to tire centres where they sell a lot of mag wheels... they use adhesive backing instead of clips to attach to the wheel. I still have weights with clips but not as many. In the mortal words of Homer Simpson...YoooHooo!!!! They are to go int a hollow fin keel for a hartley 21. Should I fust pour them in and cover with epoxy or should I melt the lead and poor into the keel? |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Before you do any thing to your boat you should establish for how much
ballast it was designed. The other option you have is to embedded your tire lead weights in latex based quick set waterproof Portland cement or it equivalent. "Garland Gray II" wrote in message news:QHL2g.5463$8q.71@dukeread08... Or you could cast them into blocks to closely fit in the cavity, then fill the gaps with smaller pellets to then be epoxy encapsulated. (I've done this sort of thing with iron/steel, w/o the epoxy, to make a counterweight) I've never cast lead, but would be more concerned with the risk Mike mentions. "sam" wrote in message ... I scored 350 kg of lead over the weekend for free from various tires centres. I found outwhat the trick is.... go to tire centres where they sell a lot of mag wheels... they use adhesive backing instead of clips to attach to the wheel. I still have weights with clips but not as many. In the mortal words of Homer Simpson...YoooHooo!!!! They are to go int a hollow fin keel for a hartley 21. Should I fust pour them in and cover with epoxy or should I melt the lead and poor into the keel? |
#5
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Sam,
Is one of your proposals to melt this lead and pour it into the fiberglass keel shell? This would cause some problems. Either Polyester (265F-125C) or epoxy (325F-160C) will not like having molten lead at 650F-345C poured into it. The strength loss will be significant at those temperatures and will be a permanent degradation. Plus - If there is any moisture in the place the molten metal is being poured there will be an explosive state change. (It is not an explosion in the chemical sense oe even the same as the failure of a pressure vessle - but it might just as well be.) Lots of molten metal goes flying and sticking to things. Been there - Done that - Didn't get the picture - Bought the T-shirt, it's worn out. Matt Colie sam wrote: I scored 350 kg of lead over the weekend for free from various tires centres. I found outwhat the trick is.... go to tire centres where they sell a lot of mag wheels... they use adhesive backing instead of clips to attach to the wheel. I still have weights with clips but not as many. In the mortal words of Homer Simpson...YoooHooo!!!! They are to go int a hollow fin keel for a hartley 21. Should I fust pour them in and cover with epoxy or should I melt the lead and poor into the keel? |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.building
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What is the hollow keel made of? Fiberglass (even most epoxy resin
composites) will not hold up to the heat released by that much lead. If you can cast it, do so. Melting 350 kg of lead is not all that big a deal. The advantage of casting is that it will be much more dense. A bucket full of those little square lead weights will reduce in volume by more than 30% when melted. The COG will be lower giving more stability without violating any class rules. A few ideas for casting ballast for a FRP keel: This will require some help from a few friends and some lifting equipment but it will preserve the strength of the FRP and simplify the casting process: Figure out exactly how much weight you will need. Divide by 11.340 to get the equivalent volume of water. Level up the keel and pour the water in. Mark the water line inside the keel. Line the inside with poly sheeting and pour in some plaster of Paris up to the waterline. (Use some scrap blocks of wood pressed into the plaster to reduce the amount required and give something to lift the plaster out with. ) Using the hardened plaster as a plug make a mold in Quickcrete or other hardware store concrete mix. Let the concrete cure for a few days then build a small charcoal fire inside. You want to heat it well above 100C for several hours to drive out any free moisture. Melt about 1/3 of the lead in a 20L pot over a propane burner. Skim off the dross. Pour it into the mold but leave a little in the pot to make the second batch start melting faster. Repeat until the mold is full. (You may have to direct a propane torch over the previously poured lead to keep the surface molten while the next batch melts.) Break out the mold. Smear a thin layer of slightly thickened epoxy inside the keel. Place the lead casting into the keel. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "sam" wrote in message ... I scored 350 kg of lead over the weekend for free from various tires centres. I found outwhat the trick is.... go to tire centres where they sell a lot of mag wheels... they use adhesive backing instead of clips to attach to the wheel. I still have weights with clips but not as many. In the mortal words of Homer Simpson...YoooHooo!!!! They are to go int a hollow fin keel for a hartley 21. Should I fust pour them in and cover with epoxy or should I melt the lead and poor into the keel? |
#7
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You might be able to cast the lead in layers separated by heavy foil to
keep the weight to manageable levels. When you place it in the keel, just restack as it came out of the mold. Jim |
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