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#1
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Hey all,
I read a while back in a book about building docks a method for making an anchor: pour about 100 lbs. (or more?) of cement into a smallish tire. Sink a U-shaped piece of metal into it to attach the chain. Now, my question: is this an environmentally sound anchor? Doesn't cement leach out or something under water? And, wouldn't the tire decompose over time under water? (I'm talking about fresh water in upstate NY, by the way). I'd think making some other disk-shapped mold would be a better way to go, if one is using cement, just wondering what anyone else thought. Thanks, Julien |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.building
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On Sat, 22 Apr 2006 16:10:20 -0400, Julien Mills
wrote: Hey all, I read a while back in a book about building docks a method for making an anchor: pour about 100 lbs. (or more?) of cement into a smallish tire. Sink a U-shaped piece of metal into it to attach the chain. Now, my question: is this an environmentally sound anchor? Doesn't cement leach out or something under water? And, wouldn't the tire decompose over time under water? (I'm talking about fresh water in upstate NY, by the way). I'd think making some other disk-shapped mold would be a better way to go, if one is using cement, just wondering what anyone else thought. Thanks, Julien Tires seem to last forever underwater. It's probably better for the eenviroment to use an old tire than to make something similar out of new materials. |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Julien Mills writes:
Doesn't cement leach out or something under water? Leach out what? Limestone? So what? Mass alone does not make a good anchor. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Richard J Kinch wrote:
Julien Mills writes: Doesn't cement leach out or something under water? Leach out what? Limestone? So what? If it doesn't matter then I'm OK with that. Thanks. Mass alone does not make a good anchor. I know, are you talking about cement here? Not quite sure you are meaning. |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.building
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There are lots of things to consider in an anchor - and you haven't given us
any idea of what it is you are trying to anchor, where, or under what conditions. But to look at just one consideration. If you made a 1000 kg anchor out of something with a density of say 2.0 ( mix of rubber and concrete.), it would take a force of 500 kg to lift it vertically up. If you made it out of something with a density of 5.0 ( mix of steel and concrete ) it would need a force of 800 kg to lift it vertically up. Obviously boats don't usually try to lift anchors vertically up, they roll, slide, dig into mud, get undermined by current ......... So the statement that mass alone does not make a good anchor is very much an understatement. DF "Julien Mills" wrote in message ... Richard J Kinch wrote: Julien Mills writes: Doesn't cement leach out or something under water? Leach out what? Limestone? So what? If it doesn't matter then I'm OK with that. Thanks. Mass alone does not make a good anchor. I know, are you talking about cement here? Not quite sure you are meaning. |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Goo'day,
On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 12:56:17 +1000, "David Flew" wrote: There are lots of things to consider in an anchor Doesn't the very use of the word "anchor" mean that the anchor itself needs to anchor itself to something? How are you going to anchor the anchor if it's but a block of something heavy? Would that a block of something *would* anchor. But of what value is a block of something sitting on, say, sand, in a 40kt wind? If, though, the block had flukes to anchor it in place, then there's a difference, and it might be of some use. Even fluked anchors have been known to drag in tide and wind - and that's what you're guarding against - dragging. The physical weight of the thing is far outweighed by the ability to withstand something trying to move it sideways, not vertically..... Your only option in an anchor is the degree of "fluking" required the locality/s you're going to want to anchor. You think I'm wrong? Toss a block of concrete the same weight as a fluked anchor over the side and see how far you drift/drag..... Home made? Waste of bloody time! And a danger to all concerned... especially to those striving to rescue you.. B. |
#7
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Some of y'all take this stuff (and perhaps yourselves) a little too
seriously don't you? Ed -- When replying via email, replace spam with speak in the address. "Bruce Nichol" wrote in message ... Goo'day, On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 12:56:17 +1000, "David Flew" wrote: There are lots of things to consider in an anchor Doesn't the very use of the word "anchor" mean that the anchor itself needs to anchor itself to something? How are you going to anchor the anchor if it's but a block of something heavy? Would that a block of something *would* anchor. But of what value is a block of something sitting on, say, sand, in a 40kt wind? If, though, the block had flukes to anchor it in place, then there's a difference, and it might be of some use. Even fluked anchors have been known to drag in tide and wind - and that's what you're guarding against - dragging. The physical weight of the thing is far outweighed by the ability to withstand something trying to move it sideways, not vertically..... Your only option in an anchor is the degree of "fluking" required the locality/s you're going to want to anchor. You think I'm wrong? Toss a block of concrete the same weight as a fluked anchor over the side and see how far you drift/drag..... Home made? Waste of bloody time! And a danger to all concerned... especially to those striving to rescue you.. B. |
#8
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posted to rec.boats.building
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He was reading a book about dock building. I would infer he wants to anchor
a floating dock. Lets make 16 100 lb rubber tire anchors place four on each corner of a floating dock say 10' x 20'. Do you think it will anchor? "Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message ... Some of y'all take this stuff (and perhaps yourselves) a little too seriously don't you? Ed -- When replying via email, replace spam with speak in the address. "Bruce Nichol" wrote in message ... Goo'day, On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 12:56:17 +1000, "David Flew" wrote: There are lots of things to consider in an anchor Doesn't the very use of the word "anchor" mean that the anchor itself needs to anchor itself to something? How are you going to anchor the anchor if it's but a block of something heavy? Would that a block of something *would* anchor. But of what value is a block of something sitting on, say, sand, in a 40kt wind? If, though, the block had flukes to anchor it in place, then there's a difference, and it might be of some use. Even fluked anchors have been known to drag in tide and wind - and that's what you're guarding against - dragging. The physical weight of the thing is far outweighed by the ability to withstand something trying to move it sideways, not vertically..... Your only option in an anchor is the degree of "fluking" required the locality/s you're going to want to anchor. You think I'm wrong? Toss a block of concrete the same weight as a fluked anchor over the side and see how far you drift/drag..... Home made? Waste of bloody time! And a danger to all concerned... especially to those striving to rescue you.. B. |
#9
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posted to rec.boats.building
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John Cassara wrote:
Thanks, everyone for the replies. He was reading a book about dock building. I would infer he wants to anchor a floating dock. Yes, someone read the op. Actually I am thinking about attaching the pipes of a pipe dock to the cement anchors. I have a hard rock bottom so I can't auger them in, or let them sink into mud. I could go the floating dock route, but at the moment I am leaning to a stationary dock. Lets make 16 100 lb rubber tire anchors place four on each corner of a floating dock say 10' x 20'. Do you think it will anchor? "Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message ... Some of y'all take this stuff (and perhaps yourselves) a little too seriously don't you? Ed -- When replying via email, replace spam with speak in the address. "Bruce Nichol" wrote in message . .. Goo'day, On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 12:56:17 +1000, "David Flew" wrote: There are lots of things to consider in an anchor Doesn't the very use of the word "anchor" mean that the anchor itself needs to anchor itself to something? How are you going to anchor the anchor if it's but a block of something heavy? Would that a block of something *would* anchor. But of what value is a block of something sitting on, say, sand, in a 40kt wind? If, though, the block had flukes to anchor it in place, then there's a difference, and it might be of some use. Even fluked anchors have been known to drag in tide and wind - and that's what you're guarding against - dragging. The physical weight of the thing is far outweighed by the ability to withstand something trying to move it sideways, not vertically..... Your only option in an anchor is the degree of "fluking" required the locality/s you're going to want to anchor. You think I'm wrong? Toss a block of concrete the same weight as a fluked anchor over the side and see how far you drift/drag..... Home made? Waste of bloody time! And a danger to all concerned... especially to those striving to rescue you.. B. |
#10
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Julien,
In actual fact you are not talking about an 'anchor' but a *MOORING*. I belong to a Club which is one of the oldest on the Delaware River, just North of Philly. It is a 'self-help working mans' club rather then a 'Newport Yacht Club'. Strictly sail, and everybody pulls their weight. Since my Potter only weighs about 1200 lbs, I was thinking of doing something similar with an old car wheel - which would have simulated a 'mushroom' mooring anchor. ABSOLUTELY NOT allowed. {There were a couple that were 'grandfathered' . . . but they were RAILROAD wheels and 6ft pipes, weighing about 900 lbs.} Depending on the boat {and personal preference} a 'single' or 'double set' of mushroom {or one of the newer 'exotics'}anchors must be used. The 'set-up' per the guidelines in 'Chapman's'. We are on a river with a reversing tidal stream and a 7ft swing. About a third of the field is hauled & inspected each winter. ALL the buoys are pulled in late Fall . . . and the 'floating docks' as well. The docks use 'permanent' moorings that I understand are massive blocks of concrete. Where this differs from the 'boat moorings' is that there is no 'bottom chain' and riding chain' . . . it's all the same size. Also each 'float' is secured with 4 chains that are 'crossed' like spring lines to hold everything in place. It make for quite an adventure, twice a year !! Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop "Julien Mills" wrote in message ... John Cassara wrote: Thanks, everyone for the replies. He was reading a book about dock building. I would infer he wants to anchor a floating dock. Yes, someone read the op. Actually I am thinking about attaching the pipes of a pipe dock to the cement anchors. I have a hard rock bottom so I can't auger them in, or let them sink into mud. I could go the floating dock route, but at the moment I am leaning to a stationary dock. |
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