Home made anchor
 

Hey all,


I read a while back in a book about building docks
a method for making an anchor: pour about 100 lbs.
(or more?) of cement into a smallish tire. Sink a
U-shaped piece of metal into it to attach the chain.

Now, my question: is this an environmentally sound
anchor? Doesn't cement leach out or something under
water? And, wouldn't the tire decompose over time
under water? (I'm talking about fresh water in
upstate NY, by the way).

I'd think making some other disk-shapped mold would
be a better way to go, if one is using cement, just
wondering what anyone else thought.


Thanks,

Julien

Home made anchor
 

On Sat, 22 Apr 2006 16:10:20 -0400, Julien Mills
wrote:

Hey all,


I read a while back in a book about building docks
a method for making an anchor: pour about 100 lbs.
(or more?) of cement into a smallish tire. Sink a
U-shaped piece of metal into it to attach the chain.

Now, my question: is this an environmentally sound
anchor? Doesn't cement leach out or something under
water? And, wouldn't the tire decompose over time
under water? (I'm talking about fresh water in
upstate NY, by the way).

I'd think making some other disk-shapped mold would
be a better way to go, if one is using cement, just
wondering what anyone else thought.


Thanks,

Julien

Tires seem to last forever underwater. It's probably better for the
eenviroment to use an old tire than to make something similar out of
new materials.

Home made anchor
 

Julien Mills writes:

Doesn't cement leach out or something under water?

Leach out what? Limestone? So what?

Mass alone does not make a good anchor.

Home made anchor
 

Richard J Kinch wrote:

Julien Mills writes:


Doesn't cement leach out or something under water?


Leach out what? Limestone? So what?

If it doesn't matter then I'm OK with that.
Thanks.

Mass alone does not make a good anchor.

I know, are you talking about cement here?
Not quite sure you are meaning.

Home made anchor
 

There are lots of things to consider in an anchor - and you haven't given us
any idea of what it is you are trying to anchor, where, or under what
conditions. But to look at just one consideration. If you made a 1000 kg
anchor out of something with a density of say 2.0 ( mix of rubber and
concrete.), it would take a force of 500 kg to lift it vertically up. If
you made it out of something with a density of 5.0 ( mix of steel and
concrete ) it would need a force of 800 kg to lift it vertically up.
Obviously boats don't usually try to lift anchors vertically up, they roll,
slide, dig into mud, get undermined by current ......... So the
statement that mass alone does not make a good anchor is very much an
understatement.

DF




"Julien Mills" wrote in message
...
Richard J Kinch wrote:

Julien Mills writes:


Doesn't cement leach out or something under water?


Leach out what? Limestone? So what?

If it doesn't matter then I'm OK with that.
Thanks.

Mass alone does not make a good anchor.

I know, are you talking about cement here?
Not quite sure you are meaning.

Home made anchor
 

Goo'day,

On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 12:56:17 +1000, "David Flew"
wrote:

There are lots of things to consider in an anchor

Doesn't the very use of the word "anchor" mean that the anchor itself
needs to anchor itself to something?

How are you going to anchor the anchor if it's but a block of
something heavy?

Would that a block of something *would* anchor. But of what value is
a block of something sitting on, say, sand, in a 40kt wind?

If, though, the block had flukes to anchor it in place, then there's a
difference, and it might be of some use. Even fluked anchors have
been known to drag in tide and wind - and that's what you're guarding
against - dragging. The physical weight of the thing is far
outweighed by the ability to withstand something trying to move it
sideways, not vertically.....

Your only option in an anchor is the degree of "fluking" required the
locality/s you're going to want to anchor.

You think I'm wrong? Toss a block of concrete the same weight as a
fluked anchor over the side and see how far you drift/drag.....

Home made? Waste of bloody time! And a danger to all concerned...
especially to those striving to rescue you..

B.

Home made anchor
 

Some of y'all take this stuff (and perhaps yourselves) a little too
seriously don't you?

Ed

--
When replying via email, replace spam with speak in the address.
"Bruce Nichol" wrote in message
...
Goo'day,

On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 12:56:17 +1000, "David Flew"
wrote:

There are lots of things to consider in an anchor

Doesn't the very use of the word "anchor" mean that the anchor itself
needs to anchor itself to something?

How are you going to anchor the anchor if it's but a block of
something heavy?

Would that a block of something *would* anchor. But of what value is
a block of something sitting on, say, sand, in a 40kt wind?

If, though, the block had flukes to anchor it in place, then there's a
difference, and it might be of some use. Even fluked anchors have
been known to drag in tide and wind - and that's what you're guarding
against - dragging. The physical weight of the thing is far
outweighed by the ability to withstand something trying to move it
sideways, not vertically.....

Your only option in an anchor is the degree of "fluking" required the
locality/s you're going to want to anchor.

You think I'm wrong? Toss a block of concrete the same weight as a
fluked anchor over the side and see how far you drift/drag.....

Home made? Waste of bloody time! And a danger to all concerned...
especially to those striving to rescue you..

B.

Home made anchor
 

He was reading a book about dock building. I would infer he wants to anchor
a floating dock. Lets make 16 100 lb rubber tire anchors place four on each
corner of a floating dock say 10' x 20'. Do you think it will anchor?


"Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message
...
Some of y'all take this stuff (and perhaps yourselves) a little too
seriously don't you?

Ed

--
When replying via email, replace spam with speak in the address.
"Bruce Nichol" wrote in message
...
Goo'day,

On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 12:56:17 +1000, "David Flew"
wrote:

There are lots of things to consider in an anchor

Doesn't the very use of the word "anchor" mean that the anchor itself
needs to anchor itself to something?

How are you going to anchor the anchor if it's but a block of
something heavy?

Would that a block of something *would* anchor. But of what value is
a block of something sitting on, say, sand, in a 40kt wind?

If, though, the block had flukes to anchor it in place, then there's a
difference, and it might be of some use. Even fluked anchors have
been known to drag in tide and wind - and that's what you're guarding
against - dragging. The physical weight of the thing is far
outweighed by the ability to withstand something trying to move it
sideways, not vertically.....

Your only option in an anchor is the degree of "fluking" required the
locality/s you're going to want to anchor.

You think I'm wrong? Toss a block of concrete the same weight as a
fluked anchor over the side and see how far you drift/drag.....

Home made? Waste of bloody time! And a danger to all concerned...
especially to those striving to rescue you..

B.

Home made anchor
 

John Cassara wrote:

Thanks, everyone for the replies.

He was reading a book about dock building. I would infer he wants to anchor
a floating dock.

Yes, someone read the op. Actually I am thinking about attaching the
pipes of a pipe dock to the cement anchors. I have a hard rock bottom
so I can't auger them in, or let them sink into mud.
I could go the floating dock route, but at the moment I am leaning
to a stationary dock.

Lets make 16 100 lb rubber tire anchors place four on each
corner of a floating dock say 10' x 20'. Do you think it will anchor?


"Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message
...

Some of y'all take this stuff (and perhaps yourselves) a little too
seriously don't you?

Ed

--
When replying via email, replace spam with speak in the address.
"Bruce Nichol" wrote in message
. ..

Goo'day,

On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 12:56:17 +1000, "David Flew"
wrote:


There are lots of things to consider in an anchor

Doesn't the very use of the word "anchor" mean that the anchor itself
needs to anchor itself to something?

How are you going to anchor the anchor if it's but a block of
something heavy?

Would that a block of something *would* anchor. But of what value is
a block of something sitting on, say, sand, in a 40kt wind?

If, though, the block had flukes to anchor it in place, then there's a
difference, and it might be of some use. Even fluked anchors have
been known to drag in tide and wind - and that's what you're guarding
against - dragging. The physical weight of the thing is far
outweighed by the ability to withstand something trying to move it
sideways, not vertically.....

Your only option in an anchor is the degree of "fluking" required the
locality/s you're going to want to anchor.

You think I'm wrong? Toss a block of concrete the same weight as a
fluked anchor over the side and see how far you drift/drag.....

Home made? Waste of bloody time! And a danger to all concerned...
especially to those striving to rescue you..

B.

Home made anchor
 

Julien,
In actual fact you are not talking about an 'anchor' but a *MOORING*.

I belong to a Club which is one of the oldest on the Delaware River, just
North of Philly. It is a 'self-help working mans' club rather then a
'Newport Yacht Club'. Strictly sail, and everybody pulls their weight. Since
my Potter only weighs about 1200 lbs, I was thinking of doing something
similar with an old car wheel - which would have simulated a 'mushroom'
mooring anchor. ABSOLUTELY NOT allowed. {There were a couple that were
'grandfathered' . . . but they were RAILROAD wheels and 6ft pipes, weighing
about 900 lbs.} Depending on the boat {and personal preference} a 'single'
or 'double set' of mushroom {or one of the newer 'exotics'}anchors must be
used. The 'set-up' per the guidelines in 'Chapman's'.

We are on a river with a reversing tidal stream and a 7ft swing. About a
third of the field is hauled & inspected each winter. ALL the buoys are
pulled in late Fall . . . and the 'floating docks' as well. The docks use
'permanent' moorings that I understand are massive blocks of concrete. Where
this differs from the 'boat moorings' is that there is no 'bottom chain' and
riding chain' . . . it's all the same size. Also each 'float' is secured
with 4 chains that are 'crossed' like spring lines to hold everything in
place. It make for quite an adventure, twice a year !!

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Julien Mills" wrote in message
...
John Cassara wrote:

Thanks, everyone for the replies.

He was reading a book about dock building. I would infer he wants to
anchor
a floating dock.

Yes, someone read the op. Actually I am thinking about attaching the
pipes of a pipe dock to the cement anchors. I have a hard rock bottom
so I can't auger them in, or let them sink into mud.
I could go the floating dock route, but at the moment I am leaning
to a stationary dock.

Home made anchor
 

Ron Magen wrote:

In actual fact you are not talking about an 'anchor' but a *MOORING*.

Yes, you are correct.

I belong to a Club which is one of the oldest on the Delaware River, just
North of Philly. It is a 'self-help working mans' club rather then a
'Newport Yacht Club'. Strictly sail, and everybody pulls their weight. Since
my Potter only weighs about 1200 lbs, I was thinking of doing something
similar with an old car wheel - which would have simulated a 'mushroom'
mooring anchor. ABSOLUTELY NOT allowed. {There were a couple that were
'grandfathered' . . . but they were RAILROAD wheels and 6ft pipes, weighing
about 900 lbs.} Depending on the boat {and personal preference} a 'single'
or 'double set' of mushroom {or one of the newer 'exotics'}anchors must be
used. The 'set-up' per the guidelines in 'Chapman's'.

We are on a river with a reversing tidal stream and a 7ft swing. About a
third of the field is hauled & inspected each winter. ALL the buoys are
pulled in late Fall . . . and the 'floating docks' as well. The docks use
'permanent' moorings that I understand are massive blocks of concrete. Where
this differs from the 'boat moorings' is that there is no 'bottom chain' and
riding chain' . . . it's all the same size. Also each 'float' is secured
with 4 chains that are 'crossed' like spring lines to hold everything in
place. It make for quite an adventure, twice a year !!

Thanks, this is quite interesting. Maybe I'll have to go ahead and get
a real mushroom or two. Railroad wheels sound heavy, very heavy.

Home made anchor
 

Old train wheels work fine, especially in fresh water. Might be bigger
than you need. Also properly cleaned engine blocks. .

Home made anchor
 

BajaJim wrote:
Old train wheels work fine, especially in fresh water. Might be bigger
than you need. Also properly cleaned engine blocks. .

Old cast iron radiators are pretty heavy, I know someone who used one
off of Fire Island a while back.
Where would one look for an old train wheel?

Home made anchor
 

On Mon, 24 Apr 2006 21:11:26 -0400, Julien Mills
wrote:

BajaJim wrote:
Old train wheels work fine, especially in fresh water. Might be bigger
than you need. Also properly cleaned engine blocks. .

Old cast iron radiators are pretty heavy, I know someone who used one
off of Fire Island a while back.
Where would one look for an old train wheel?

An old train?

Sorry, couldn't help myself.

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

Home made anchor
 

On Mon, 24 Apr 2006 21:11:26 -0400, Julien Mills
wrote:

BajaJim wrote:
Old train wheels work fine, especially in fresh water. Might be bigger
than you need. Also properly cleaned engine blocks. .

Old cast iron radiators are pretty heavy, I know someone who used one
off of Fire Island a while back.
Where would one look for an old train wheel?

When I was a kid there was an abandoned tack with a switching station
nearby. All the wheels you wanted. Then it was considered an
eyesore. Now it would probably be a designated hysterical (oops, I
meant historical) site and grabbing an old wheel would be frowned
upon.

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

Home made anchor
 

Julien,

If I remember your first inquiry, there was mention of a 'rocky bottom'. If
so this is NOT the best holding ground for a mushroom type. Beside which, if
this is going to be a 'permanent' mooring your going to need a LOT of mass.
Plus someone with the proper equipment to place them.

Many a dock is held in place using a couple of old engine blocks with a
chain threaded through them. If you don't have a tidal stream, a big shift
in tides, or frequent storm conditions, that's the way I'd explore. Two or
three {for each 'corner'}with a heavy chain threaded through & shackled to
keep them together. Also a hell of a lot cheaper then the mushrooms . . .
and a lot less shipping if the scrap yard is local.

Just remember the 'crossing arrangement' of the float chains.

Regards & Good Luck,
Rom Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Julien Mills" wrote in message
...
SNIP

Thanks, this is quite interesting. Maybe I'll have to go ahead and get
a real mushroom or two. Railroad wheels sound heavy, very heavy.

Home made anchor
 

Do it at night, so you can't see the frowns?
"Glen "Wiley" Wilson" wrote in
message ...
On Mon, 24 Apr 2006 21:11:26 -0400, Julien Mills
wrote:

BajaJim wrote:
Old train wheels work fine, especially in fresh water. Might be bigger
than you need. Also properly cleaned engine blocks. .

Old cast iron radiators are pretty heavy, I know someone who used one
off of Fire Island a while back.
Where would one look for an old train wheel?

When I was a kid there was an abandoned tack with a switching station
nearby. All the wheels you wanted. Then it was considered an
eyesore. Now it would probably be a designated hysterical (oops, I
meant historical) site and grabbing an old wheel would be frowned
upon.

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/