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Richard J Kinch wrote:
Glenn Ashmore writes: If I want to use it for breathable air I have a charcoal filter and oil coalescing filter that plug into the outlet. That is the same type arrangement I have used for years on my big shop compressor for my MSA air-line respirator when spraying LPU. The big shop compressor is an oil type so there is an additional moisture separator and coalescing filter and an extra 40 gallon settling tank in the line. All that filtering and coalescing is just wishful thinking without (1) a refrigerated dryer ahead of the filters, and (2) a way to monitor filter condition. A "moisture separator" is kind of a lie, because raw compressed air is saturated and condensing as it moves down the line, including after the so-called "separator". WHy does the moisture content matter @90psi? It's not like you are going to freeze up your first stage anyway.... You are confusing low pressure with high pressure compressors. The typical charcoal filter application is worse than no filter at all, because it is left in long after it is spent, being difficult to monifor and expensive to replace. False security in breathing air. -- When I’m good, I’m very good…. When I’m bad, I’m at my best. __________________________________________________ __________________________ "A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; The simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences." - Proverbs 22:3 |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.building
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dazed and confuzzed writes:
WHy does the moisture content matter @90psi? It's not like you are going to freeze up your first stage anyway. Water vapor or condensate is not itself a problem for breathing, but it spoils the filters if you are trying to filter out something else that is a problem. |