Hi maybe you can help....three of the screws is frozen on the traveler
Philips head. What's best heating and if so do I use a heat gun on the
screw head? The traveler is aluminum. I also have a deck organizer
Schafer with frozen flat screw heads into a iron embedded backing
plate.
Question 2 what is the best way to remove plastic hatch covers from
their aluminum Frame also heating the Silicone glue
And #3 Anybody have a place in Miami Fl for Lexan grey tint hatch
replacements?
Thanks in advance Chris

Chris wrote:
Hi maybe you can help....three of the screws is frozen on the traveler
Philips head. What's best heating and if so do I use a heat gun on the
screw head? The traveler is aluminum. I also have a deck organizer
Schafer with frozen flat screw heads into a iron embedded backing
plate.

Kroil from Kano Labs, Nashville, TN.

Lew

Chris,
You have a less than complete description here, but I will run along it
as best I can.

SS in AL can well be electrolytic corrosion. If it is, you have a
problem.

The first try should always be to heat the AL as its coefficient of
thermal expansion is almost twice that of SS. heat it as much as you
can. If the fastener does not come loose while it is hot, then cool it
with penetrant (the kroil mentioned by another is good if you can find
it. This will cause the penetrant to be drawn into the assembly.

The SS in steel, can not be helped much with heat that does not bring
parts to incandecense and that is usually bad around plastics.

As to removing the plexi stuck in with a silicone based compound, there
not much you can do that is short of major distruction. If you can work
an Xacto blade into the joint, you might be able to make it let go, but
that is about it.

Good luck
Matt Colie

Chris wrote:
Hi maybe you can help....three of the screws is frozen on the traveler
Philips head. What's best heating and if so do I use a heat gun on the
screw head? The traveler is aluminum. I also have a deck organizer
Schafer with frozen flat screw heads into a iron embedded backing
plate.
Question 2 what is the best way to remove plastic hatch covers from
their aluminum Frame also heating the Silicone glue
And #3 Anybody have a place in Miami Fl for Lexan grey tint hatch
replacements?
Thanks in advance Chris

"Chris" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi maybe you can help....three of the screws is frozen on the traveler
Philips head. What's best heating and if so do I use a heat gun on the
screw head? The traveler is aluminum. I also have a deck organizer
Schafer with frozen flat screw heads into a iron embedded backing
plate.

A hand impact driver from Sears works well if you have something reasonably
solid behind the screws

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00 947641000&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools

Craftsman Impact Driver
Sears item #00947641000 Mfr. model #47641

The trick to using this is to not try to make the screw turn much - most
of the impact needs to go into pounding the bit into the screw.

--
--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

When I rebuilt my airplane there was a bunch of galvanic corrosion
between the Al and steel parts, bolts, etc. The magic pill was
Absorbene Jr. or some sort of liquid horse linament. I dabbed the
stuff on twice each day and after a week the frozen parts came out
with little fighting. Good luck.


On Wed, 19 Apr 2006 07:50:49 GMT, ray lunder
wrote:

I have a tiny melded ss screw which captures the rigging in my
aluminum spreaders. Been soaking in Kroil, diesel, wd-40 etc all
winter. Tried a heat gun, propane torch, some impact, patience, foul
language, nothing,.. please post if you find a magic formula.

On 17 Apr 2006 07:59:28 -0700, "Chris" wrote:

Hi maybe you can help....three of the screws is frozen on the traveler
Philips head. What's best heating and if so do I use a heat gun on the
screw head? The traveler is aluminum. I also have a deck organizer
Schafer with frozen flat screw heads into a iron embedded backing
plate.
Question 2 what is the best way to remove plastic hatch covers from
their aluminum Frame also heating the Silicone glue
And #3 Anybody have a place in Miami Fl for Lexan grey tint hatch
replacements?
Thanks in advance Chris

I have a feeling that the reason it worked is viscosity or molecular size,
and chemistry. Something 'active' enough to cut through the surface 'crust'
and small enough to get down under the oxidation in the threads.

By the same token, I wonder. . . if a VERY SMALL hole {maybe a 1/32}were
drilled at an angle, right next to the bolt so it just touches the threads.
Would this act as a 'tunnel' or 'entry way for something like the KROIL,
etc. ??

One thing to keep in mind . . . to prevent this from happening again, use
LANOLIN on the threads during assembly. Get a tube of it at your local
pharmacy. You only need the tiniest amount, and it's so thick {'heavy'
??}you won't believe it will ever come out of the tube, no matter how hard
you squeeze.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Kevin Brooker" wrote in message
...
When I rebuilt my airplane there was a bunch of galvanic corrosion
between the Al and steel parts, bolts, etc. The magic pill was
Absorbene Jr. or some sort of liquid horse linament. I dabbed the
stuff on twice each day and after a week the frozen parts came out
with little fighting. Good luck.


On Wed, 19 Apr 2006 07:50:49 GMT, ray lunder
wrote:

I have a tiny melded ss screw which captures the rigging in my
aluminum spreaders. Been soaking in Kroil, diesel, wd-40 etc all
winter. Tried a heat gun, propane torch, some impact, patience, foul
language, nothing,.. please post if you find a magic formula.

Never heard of the absorbine jr. thing.... interesting! I've always had
great success with PB Blaster. I use Tef-Gel to assemble things like
this. http://wolfwire.com/tefgel/Tef-Gel.htm.