I can't remember what it is called (try a welding wholesaler) but some years
ago I had a tool that was a cross between a cutting torch and a spray gun,
Zink powder was blown through the oxyacetylene flame and melted, it stuck on
the steel with a Finnish like sandpaper. It is the next best thing to
galvanising when the item to be protected won't fit in the metal finishers
tank. it should be applied immediately after gritblasting or how ever you
decide to clean the metal. A boat yard I did metal finishing work for hung a
piece of steel so treated down the harbour wall on string so that it was
covered by the tide for over two years with no sign of rust. if I were to be
painting a steel boat this treatment would be my first choice. It is much
tougher than any paint treatment and can be touched up in minuets should you
manage to scratch through to the metal. the only down side is that with its
rough Finish it takes a lot of paint to "smooth it over"
Stuart.

"colvin_schooner" wrote in message
lkaboutboats.com...
For painting a steel hull:
Tom Colvin in Feb. 2004 recommends Amerlock 400 with Rustoleum
Professional as a topcoat. (This is the Rustoleum that is sold in Walmart,
Home Deport, Lowes, etc .. @ aprox. $26/gal) The amerlock 400 he says to
sand, degrease with soap and water unless the oil/grease is so heavy to
require dangerous chemicals in which case go ahead but be careful. Use
phosphoric acid treatment (Ospho ect..) per label instuctions and then
Amerlock 400. Topsides: 2 coats and for Bottom: 3 coats.

We purchased a 1989 Colvin steel pinky schooner LOD:40' and he has been a
consultant on the fixup.

George Ray
s/v Kitty Hawk