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Manual marine head
Ytter wrote:
Hi everybody! I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket,but do not have any opinion or experience.Is it possible to get your feedback on this important topic. The Cricket is good toilet...but is a "light duty" toilet. For long term reliability and durability, and especially for serious cruising, the PH II is a better choice...it's been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for several decades. If the PH II won't fit in the space, Raritan now offers the PHC, which is the same pump but on the same base as their Compact II and costs a little less. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 |
Manual marine head
Hi everybody!
I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket,but do not have any opinion or experience.Is it possible to get your feedback on this important topic. Thank You, Ytter |
Manual marine head
We've gone through this before in this newsgroup - the PH-II is a
poorly designed plastic toilet - that squirts liquid sewage out through the "water lubricated" top seal - into your face when you bend over to flush it. Do a google newsgroup search in the archives of the RBC newsgroup for the problems with the crappy PH-II toilets. Peggy forgets to say she sold her co. to Raritan and then worked for them - so her recommendations have a taint or bias to them - but why's she's biased to the crappy PH-II is beyond us. On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 15:58:59 GMT, Peggie Hall wrote: Ytter wrote: Hi everybody! I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket,but do not have any opinion or experience.Is it possible to get your feedback on this important topic. The Cricket is good toilet...but is a "light duty" toilet. For long term reliability and durability, and especially for serious cruising, the PH II is a better choice...it's been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for several decades. If the PH II won't fit in the space, Raritan now offers the PHC, which is the same pump but on the same base as their Compact II and costs a little less. |
Manual marine head
aunty wrote:
We've gone through this before in this newsgroup... Yep...and you never use the same identity twice. Do a google newsgroup search in the archives of the RBC newsgroup for the problems with the crappy PH-II toilets. Almost all written by you! :) Peggy forgets to say she sold her co. to Raritan and then worked for them - I've never hidden it...never will. And I sign my name to my posts. so her recommendations have a taint or bias to them - but why's she's biased to the crappy PH-II is beyond us. If I am biased, so is the entire industry...because the PH II and its predecessor the PHH have consistently been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for more than two decades. But let's talk your own bias... I have nearly 20 years of experience with literally thousands of owners of just about every toilet ever made, including a few you've prob'ly never even heard of. How much experience do you have that would make your bias more valid than any I might have? Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
That's a lot of poops! Haha. We're glad you're here, Peggie. I figure the
guy had one lousy seal and got a bum squirt (pardon the pun) ...certain to cause a bad attitude if it hits you in the face (yuk yuk.) We can tell who to ignore... Brian http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass "Peggie Hall" wrote in message ... aunty wrote: We've gone through this before in this newsgroup... Yep...and you never use the same identity twice. Do a google newsgroup search in the archives of the RBC newsgroup for the problems with the crappy PH-II toilets. Almost all written by you! :) Peggy forgets to say she sold her co. to Raritan and then worked for them - I've never hidden it...never will. And I sign my name to my posts. so her recommendations have a taint or bias to them - but why's she's biased to the crappy PH-II is beyond us. If I am biased, so is the entire industry...because the PH II and its predecessor the PHH have consistently been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for more than two decades. But let's talk your own bias... I have nearly 20 years of experience with literally thousands of owners of just about every toilet ever made, including a few you've prob'ly never even heard of. How much experience do you have that would make your bias more valid than any I might have? Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
I've got two of them that I installed 18 months ago and they've done nothing
but perform perfectly. Sounds to me more like sour grapes of some variety. -- Keith __ A recent survey of boat owners revealed that only 13 of them would go overboard to save their spouse. However 25 would go overboard to save their hat. "aunty" wrote in message ... We've gone through this before in this newsgroup - the PH-II is a poorly designed plastic toilet - that squirts liquid sewage out through the "water lubricated" top seal - into your face when you bend over to flush it. snip |
Manual marine head
In article ,
"Ytter" wrote: Hi everybody! I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket,but do not have any opinion or experience.Is it possible to get your feedback on this important topic. We got one a few years back and like it, but it is a bit different than the Compact it replaced and the Pars we've used on other boats. If we had a lot of guests, I think I'd prefer the PH or Compact, but for the two of us, the Cricket has definite advantages. Check the cost of a rebuild kit. -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Manual marine head
"Ytter" writes:
I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive. snip Lavac, it has no equal, IMHO. -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Manual marine head
peggy has given all us backyard builders a lot of info.....what have you
done but bitch? |
Manual marine head
peggy has given all us backyard builders a lot of info.....what have you
done but bitch? |
Manual marine head
Jere Lull wrote:
I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket... We got one a few years back and like it, but it is a bit different than the Compact it replaced and the Pars we've used on other boats. Yep...instead of the piston/cylinder pump sitting beside the bowl, the Cricket has a diaphragm pump located directly below the bowl...no moving parts. If we had a lot of guests, I think I'd prefer the PH or Compact, but for the two of us, the Cricket has definite advantages. Check the cost of a rebuild kit. It's not really a rebuild kit, it's a whole new pump except for the housing. Unlike piston/cylinder pumps, the Cricket doesn't have any seals, o-rings, gaskets etc--the parts in the usual "rebuild kit"...so it doesn't require "rebuilding" in the usual sense. In fact, it doesn't even need lubrication. A kit is needed only as often as any other toilet would need a whole new pump assembly. So the price for it should really be compared to the prices of a new pump assemblies for other toilets, not rebuild kits. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
On Tue, 30 Mar 04, 8:47am, Peggie wrote:
A kit is needed only as often as any other toilet would need a whole new pump assembly. How often might that be? ... say, for an average weekender with minimal usage. And wouldn't something like that be better for an "over the side" guy instead of a head with gaskets, o-rings, seals etc that fail from lack of use? Since my divorce, my head sees minimal use and seems to fail only when a guest needs it. ... from lack of use rather than wearing out. Rick |
Manual marine head
On Wed, 31 Mar 04, 8:15pm, Peggie wrote:
Y'all can have all the fun with that one you want to... No M'am, I wouldn't touch that one with a ten foot ... uh ... never mind. Over and out, Rick |
Manual marine head
In article ,
Peggie Hall wrote: Jere Lull wrote: We got a Cricket a few years back and like it, but it is a bit different than the Compact it replaced and the Pars we've used on other boats. Yep...instead of the piston/cylinder pump sitting beside the bowl, the Cricket has a diaphragm pump located directly below the bowl...no moving parts. If we had a lot of guests, I think I'd prefer the PH or Compact, but for the two of us, the Cricket has definite advantages. Check the cost of a rebuild kit. It's not really a rebuild kit, it's a whole new pump except for the housing. Unlike piston/cylinder pumps, the Cricket doesn't have any seals, o-rings, gaskets etc--the parts in the usual "rebuild kit"...so it doesn't require "rebuilding" in the usual sense. In fact, it doesn't even need lubrication. A kit is needed only as often as any other toilet would need a whole new pump assembly. So the price for it should really be compared to the prices of a new pump assemblies for other toilets, not rebuild kits. Oh! I didn't know that. That makes me feel better. It's simplicity was a primary draw. I had gotten tired of lubing and rebuilding every couple-three years. Guess I should get that kit and vacuum pack it. It sure seems to have trouble less often, though it took a while to learn to take long, slow, full-length strokes every time. If only the wet/dry switch weren't in such an inconvenient location. -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Manual marine head
On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 14:47:23 GMT,
Peggie Hall wrote: Jere Lull wrote: I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket... We got one a few years back and like it, but it is a bit different than the Compact it replaced and the Pars we've used on other boats. Yep...instead of the piston/cylinder pump sitting beside the bowl, the Cricket has a diaphragm pump located directly below the bowl...no moving parts. If we had a lot of guests, I think I'd prefer the PH or Compact, but for the two of us, the Cricket has definite advantages. Check the cost of a rebuild kit. It's not really a rebuild kit, it's a whole new pump except for the housing. Unlike piston/cylinder pumps, the Cricket doesn't have any seals, o-rings, gaskets etc--the parts in the usual "rebuild kit"...so it doesn't require "rebuilding" in the usual sense. In fact, it doesn't even need lubrication. A kit is needed only as often as any other toilet would need a whole new pump assembly. So the price for it should really be compared to the prices of a new pump assemblies for other toilets, not rebuild kits. What is your opinion of the cricket? we are looking at replacing the head in Windwalker when we add a holding tank, and want something sturdy, reliable, and not too expensive (I know, pick two of the three...) -- Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock Good judgement comes with experience. Unfortunately, the experience usually comes from bad judgement. |
Manual marine head
Jim Richardson wrote:
What is your opinion of the cricket? we are looking at replacing the head in Windwalker when we add a holding tank, and want something sturdy, reliable, and not too expensive (I know, pick two of the three...) The Cricket is a nice toilet...but not without quirks. For about the same price, the PH II will give you 3 for 3. I have a plane to catch and don't know if I'll have NG access for next week. So if you have more questions, hold 'em...I'll answer 'em when I get home. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My
experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can make some observations. The first problem I had was that the first generation (which I bought) came without a piece that they have now. This little ring keeps the poo from blowing back in your face when too much pressure builds up pumping a big load out. This went on for about two years and really soured me on the cricket. I found out from this ng that raritan would send me this blow back stopper part for free, and since then, I haven't had poo blow back into my face. Good thing I check ng's once in a while. At about the same time it started to leak so when I got the part I also ordered a rebuild kit. Turns out nothing was wrong with any of the rubber bits - but the pump base itself had cracked. Which brings me to the next problem I have with crickets - they are all plastic construction. I'm sure this is what keeps the cost down compared to say groccos or skippers or other diaphragm pump based toilets made of bronze. Anyway, I fixed it with some west system, rebuilt it, and the thing finally gave me about 3 years of pretty maintenance free operation, no leaks, no poo blow back, rarely clogging. Those three years of good live-aboard use make it worth the low price in my mind and have softened the hard feelings I had about it during the years of poo blow back and leaking. Now I just recently moved ashore. My toilet sat dry for about a month. Last week I went to go sail out to the islands here and the head wouldn't flush. I couldn't figure out what was wrong and instead of going sailing I spent the whole morning thurs. taking it apart, and handling feces. While I took it apart a stainless bolt that rests in a bronze thread molded into the plastic had siezed and while I torqued on it the plastic broke. Well that was it. I went sailing with a bucket and when I got back, I went to defender's website and ordered a lavac. I'm not saying the cricket's a bad head. You get what you pay for, its pretty good for its price (with the blow back stopper that now comes standard). I actually chose it because I have a small space and it is very compact compared to other heads that aren't the piston types. I won't even consider the piston types - what an absurd design. If raritan came out with a bronze version or the grocco was smaller I'd go with those. Meanwhile, I know the lavac will fit and the rebuild kit for its pump can double as the rebuild kit for my cockpit manual bilge pump. |
Manual marine head
Jere Lull wrote:
If only the wet/dry switch weren't in such an inconvenient location. Raritan offers an "extension pole" that allows it to be operated without sticking your head in the bowl. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
Tom wrote:
I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can make some observations. The REAL problem with the Cricket is actually an "operator error," common among owners of most toilets, but the Cricket is much less forgiving: incomplete flushing...ceasing to pump as soon as the bowl is empty. In most toilets, that only leaves waste and/or TP sitting in the discharge hose where it rarely creates a clog unless someone flushes something they shouldn't have. But because the Cricket's pump is just a large diaphragm directly below the bowl, unless the use continues to pump till all the waste is pushed out the discharge on the side of the pump, waste and TP build up in it, blocking the discharge, till it produces the backpressure and eruption you describe. After numerous attempts to design a flapper valve strong enough to resist the pressure needed to break up the clog and send it downstream, Raritan--also knowing that few if any boat owners will flush enough to keep waste from building up in it--finally gave up and discontinued production of the Cricket this year. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a
composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. -- Karin Conover-Lewis Fair and Balanced since 1959 klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message nk.net... "Ytter" writes: I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive. snip Lavac, it has no equal, IMHO. -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Manual marine head
Karin Conover-Lewis wrote:
Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. Composting toilets also need power 24/7, Karin, to run the blower and evaporator. Also a means of draining off liquids that exceed what can be evaporated, which in coastal waters means some kind of container for 'em...'cuz they can't legally be drained overboard. Composter are an alternative worth considering on a large powerboat on inland "no discharge" waters, but IMO are totally impractical on any boat in coastal waters. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 |
Manual marine head
If everything on my boat worked as well as the Lavac, I would sail a lot
more. -- Dennis Gibbons S/V Dark Lady CN35-207 dkgibbons at optonline dot net "Karin Conover-Lewis" wrote in message ... Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. -- Karin Conover-Lewis Fair and Balanced since 1959 klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message nk.net... "Ytter" writes: I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly expensive. snip Lavac, it has no equal, IMHO. -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
Manual marine head
Peggy,
Have you ever heard of the following setup: The waste tank is ABOVE the water line with a bottom drain to a seacock. There is a second drain from the top of the tank to the deck pumpout. The head pumps up to the top of the tank. Close the seacock in protected water to keep the bad stuff aboard and then open the seacock when you get out.When offshore, simply leave the seacock open to drain as you go (so to speak). Real simple if you have the freeboard. I wouldn't worry about carrying the weight so high because the tank would always be empty out to sea. -- Dennis Gibbons dkgibbons at optonline dot net "Peggie Hall" wrote in message ... Karin Conover-Lewis wrote: Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. Composting toilets also need power 24/7, Karin, to run the blower and evaporator. Also a means of draining off liquids that exceed what can be evaporated, which in coastal waters means some kind of container for 'em...'cuz they can't legally be drained overboard. Composter are an alternative worth considering on a large powerboat on inland "no discharge" waters, but IMO are totally impractical on any boat in coastal waters. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 |
Manual marine head
Dennis Gibbons wrote:
Peggy, Have you ever heard of the following setup: The waste tank is ABOVE the water line with a bottom drain to a seacock. There is a second drain from the top of the tank to the deck pumpout. The head pumps up to the top of the tank. Close the seacock in protected water to keep the bad stuff aboard and then open the seacock when you get out.When offshore, simply leave the seacock open to drain as you go (so to speak). I'm not crazy about that set up. When the seacock is closed waste has to sit in the line to thru-hull, permeating the hose...any sludge in the tank will end up in that hose, so if you're in coastal waters very long, that can cause problems...and I can't see any reason to go through a tank at sea instead of flushing directly overboard. If the tank vent should become blocked, you'll have problems flushing the toilet due to the backpressure. Worst case would be a blocked tank vent AND a clogged overboard discharge hose at sea in 8'+. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
Dennis Gibbons wrote: Peggy, Have you ever heard of the following setup: The waste tank is ABOVE the water line with a bottom drain to a seacock. There is a second drain from the top of the tank to the deck pumpout. The head pumps up to the top of the tank. Close the seacock in protected water to keep the bad stuff aboard and then open the seacock when you get out.When offshore, simply leave the seacock open to drain as you go (so to speak). That is _nearly_ exactly the set-up that I have, with one important modification, see after Peggie's comment. Peggie Hall writes: I'm not crazy about that set up. When the seacock is closed waste has to sit in the line to thru-hull, permeating the hose...any sludge in the tank will end up in that hose, so if you're in coastal waters very long, that can cause problems Right. So what I did is to have a PVC ball valve right at the drain, then go with sanitation hose (the good one, of course) to the seacock. Both the PVC ball valve and the seacock are usually closed and only open off-shore for draining the tank. Thus, the hose ONLY ever contains sea water (or antifreeze, in winter), except for brief periods during draining. And after draining the tank I would pump enough sea water through it (using the existing pump, i.e. through the head) to make sure it is clean before closing both valves again. Just like you pump fresh water into the tank when pumping it out. Of course, I have never done it so far since I was always within 3 miles. ...and I can't see any reason to go through a tank at sea instead of flushing directly overboard. Oh, reason is options, and simplicity. I can sail legally in coastal waters and without problems off-shore. True, having some construction with Y-valves, or additional pumps and dip tubes would also work (and actually have some advantages), but this setup is far simpler. If the tank vent should become blocked, you'll have problems flushing the toilet due to the backpressure. Worst case would be a blocked tank vent AND a clogged overboard discharge hose at sea in 8'+. -- Peggie OK, this part I don't understand. Why would a second drain block the vent(s)?? --Ernst |
Manual marine head
brain wrote:
...and I can't see any reason to go through a tank at sea instead of flushing directly overboard. Oh, reason is options, and simplicity. "Options?" What options? It offers none...all the waste has to go through the tank, no way to bypass it. It also means that waste has to go uphill to the tank, leaving the head discharge hose full of standing waste. So you have two hoses begging to become permeated. And in your case, a ball valve that prob'ly won't work because you don't sail outside 3 miles often enough to keep it from seizing. A pump in one of the tank discharge lines, a y-valve in the head discharge line...not much more complicated, and now you have options. OK, this part I don't understand. Why would a second drain block the vent(s)?? It wouldn't...one has nothing whatever to do with the other. But Murphy was an optimist who prob'ly based his law on the typical boat owner's approach to marine sanitation system maintenance. Tank vents, especially on sailboats due to waste running out them when heeled, are highly prone to clogging if owners don't backflush 'em regularly--which few do (and when the tank pressurizes, it's last thing owners think of...they think it's due to a clog in the discharge line, often with disastrous results). Nor do many owners ever flush out their tanks to eliminate sludge buildup. Worst case would be a blockage in both lines occurring simultaneously...no escape for displaced air in either direction--out the vent or down the discharge. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Manual marine head
Peggy -- I think SunMar makes one that doesn't need any power, but they do
require that "excess fluid drainage" that you mention. Some of those that require power claim to be able to dry the "fluid" sufficiently not to actually use the overflow under lower usage (one or two people full-time), but they're also way too big for my boat. -- Karin Conover-Lewis Fair and Balanced since 1959 klc dot lewis at centurytel dot net "Peggie Hall" wrote in message ... Karin Conover-Lewis wrote: Ditto the "Lavac" recommendation. I would have no other. Well, I'd go for a composting head if I didn't need to carry mountains of peat moss and it fit the same space as the Lavac, but such a creature doesn't exist. Composting toilets also need power 24/7, Karin, to run the blower and evaporator. Also a means of draining off liquids that exceed what can be evaporated, which in coastal waters means some kind of container for 'em...'cuz they can't legally be drained overboard. Composter are an alternative worth considering on a large powerboat on inland "no discharge" waters, but IMO are totally impractical on any boat in coastal waters. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 |
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