Richard Lamb wrote:
Courtney Thomas wrote:

Richard Lamb wrote:

MMC wrote:

Do you have to etch before using this product?
"Richard Lamb" wrote in message
ink.net...

RW Salnick wrote:


If it were me, I'd use a 2-part urethane on it. The finish is
superb,
and that stuff is *HARD*. Also, when patch/repairs are needed, it
will
be easier to match the existing finish.

bob

Rusty wrote:


I am having an aluminum dodger built for my sailboat. I want it
to be
white when it's finished.

The question is, should I have it powder coated or painted?
Either is
possible, and not out of line for cost. I am looking for durability,
long-term looks, and ability to make minor repairs.

Any thoughts either for or against each option?

Thanks,
Rusty



Power coat can chip leaving water access under the film.

My preferred treatment for aluminum is Epi-Bond.

Two-part epoxy primer used in aircraft service.

Paint with two-part urethane after several weeks cure.


Richard






Of course you can etch first. It doesn't hurt anything.
But all it really needs is a good rub with scotchbrite
to clean the surfaces.

Mix epi-bond and catalyst - then add epoxy thinner to thin to
spraying consistency.

SPRAY the epi-bond rather than brush it.
It sets up too fast to flow out smooth and will show brush marks.

The stuff cures hard in less than an hour.
But it will continue to cure for quite a while.

I'd wait a few weeks before final painting.
Dunno if that's necessary or not, but not bad advice.

A quart kit will probably cover your dodger.

Try it, you'll like it...


Richard



Apologies, but I neglected to ask......

Would epi-bond also equally satisfactory for a stainless bimini frame
and would it look the same as on aluminum ?

Thanks again,

Courtney


Probably so, Courtney. We use it on 4130, alumimum, stainless, ???

Ought to look the same baring any surface texture differences in the
metals.

Richard

A final question....I don't know how my 50' aluminum mast was previouly
finished, but to obtain durable results, how should it now be prepared,
given that it now has irregular areas of 'peeling' and coating absence
due of abrasion, etc. ?

Should it be taken back to bare metal [whew !] or what, and if yes, what
method would be easiest and which the least expensive, hopefully the
same :-)

Gratefully,
Courtney