On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 14:43:52 -0600, Dazed and Confuzed
wrote:

Keith wrote:

I use a groco air switch. A tube runs down into the bilge and the switch is
mounte 3' away. You can adjust the switch sensitivity to get it to do
whatever you want. It's basically a big diapharam switch like a washer uses
to sense when the tub is full.

--

Keith
__
Adult, n.: One old enough to know better.
"Dazed and Confuzed" wrote in message
...
Any suggestions for a bilge pump switch that will activate at about 1.5"
water level and shut of at less than 3/4"? Of course reliability counts.
I remember that everyone is unhappy with the Rule products.

thoughts, suggestions and experience appreciated

thanks
B



cool. I'll look for them and see if I cam make them work for me...

Again, your problem is not the switch, but the fact that most bilge
pumps will not pump a bilge dry.

"P.C. Ford" wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 14:43:52 -0600, Dazed and Confuzed
wrote:

Keith wrote:

I use a groco air switch. A tube runs down into the bilge and the switch is
mounte 3' away. You can adjust the switch sensitivity to get it to do
whatever you want. It's basically a big diapharam switch like a washer uses
to sense when the tub is full.

--

Keith
__
Adult, n.: One old enough to know better.
"Dazed and Confuzed" wrote in message
...
Any suggestions for a bilge pump switch that will activate at about 1.5"
water level and shut of at less than 3/4"? Of course reliability counts.
I remember that everyone is unhappy with the Rule products.

thoughts, suggestions and experience appreciated

thanks
B



cool. I'll look for them and see if I cam make them work for me...

Again, your problem is not the switch, but the fact that most bilge
pumps will not pump a bilge dry.

True, most will not pump a bilge dry. But most air switches that I have seen will
shut of at about 1", and come on at about 3". Most pumps will pump to less than
3/4". I have a flat bottomed shallow bilge. I will accept the short cycles that
this is gonna give me, but I need a switch which will turn on at about 11/2" and
shut of at about 3/4 inch.


--

Don't like the looks of nudists? Complain to the manufacturer.

Keith wrote:

I use a groco air switch. A tube runs down into the bilge and the switch
is
mounte 3' away. You can adjust the switch sensitivity to get it to do
whatever you want. It's basically a big diapharam switch like a washer
uses
to sense when the tub is full.

Commonly known as a "bubbler". Used at one time by the waste water industry
to control pumps in lift stations.

Very old and not very reliable technology which is why is is no longer used
in modern installations.

"Dazed and Confuzed" writes:

Any suggestions for a bilge pump switch that will activate at about 1.5"
water level and shut of at less than 3/4"? Of course reliability counts.
I remember that everyone is unhappy with the Rule products.

The float switch has not been invented that is reliable but it is the only
technology that is low cost enough to sell in the consumer marine market.

There is reliable technology available for this application. Prices start
about $500 USD.

Let me know if you are interested.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Keith wrote:

I use a groco air switch. A tube runs down into the bilge and the switch
is
mounte 3' away. You can adjust the switch sensitivity to get it to do
whatever you want. It's basically a big diapharam switch like a washer
uses
to sense when the tub is full.

Commonly known as a "bubbler". Used at one time by the waste water industry
to control pumps in lift stations.

Very old and not very reliable technology which is why is is no longer used
in modern installations.

"Dazed and Confuzed" writes:

Any suggestions for a bilge pump switch that will activate at about 1.5"
water level and shut of at less than 3/4"? Of course reliability counts.
I remember that everyone is unhappy with the Rule products.

The float switch has not been invented that is reliable but it is the only
technology that is low cost enough to sell in the consumer marine market.

There is reliable technology available for this application. Prices start
about $500 USD.

Let me know if you are interested.

--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

Lew:
let me explore other options first. Price IS an object (I'm cheap) and I think
that I can build a switch cheaper than that. I can, if need be, use a couple of
op amps and make a level sensor. I was hoping to buy a pre made mechanical
switch, but if not.....


--

Don't like the looks of nudists? Complain to the manufacturer.

"Dazed and Confuzed" writes:

Lew:
let me explore other options first. Price IS an object (I'm cheap) and I
think
that I can build a switch cheaper than that. I can, if need be, use a
couple of
op amps and make a level sensor. I was hoping to buy a pre made mechanical
switch, but if not.....


Others have gone before you, but we still sell a lot of switches.

You will never build a reliable float switch. Low cost, yes, reliable, no.

Good luck.

BTW, on my own boat, never have or will have a bilge pump level switch.

Rather, have a Son-O-Lert or equal obnoxious noise maker wired in parallel
with the pump.

You KNOW when the bilge pump is running.

It runs when it has to run, but not unnecessarily.

Gets the job done, is low cost, and keeps the bilge dry.

Works for me.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

Lew Hodgett wrote:

"Dazed and Confuzed" writes:

Lew:
let me explore other options first. Price IS an object (I'm cheap) and I
think
that I can build a switch cheaper than that. I can, if need be, use a
couple of
op amps and make a level sensor. I was hoping to buy a pre made mechanical
switch, but if not.....

Others have gone before you, but we still sell a lot of switches.

You will never build a reliable float switch. Low cost, yes, reliable, no.

Good luck.

BTW, on my own boat, never have or will have a bilge pump level switch.

Rather, have a Son-O-Lert or equal obnoxious noise maker wired in parallel
with the pump.

You KNOW when the bilge pump is running.

It runs when it has to run, but not unnecessarily.

Gets the job done, is low cost, and keeps the bilge dry.

Works for me.

--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

What do you do when the boat is unattended if you don't have a level switch?
And what do you think about an electronic level switch? a couple of op amps and
some sensors, and a few resistors. Not much to go wrong, and a low power
consumption. of course, oil is an issue, but aside from that, what are the
drawbacks?


--

Don't like the looks of nudists? Complain to the manufacturer.

"Dazed and Confuzed" writes:

What do you do when the boat is unattended if you don't have a level
switch?

Close any open seacocks when leaving the boat for extended periods.

And what do you think about an electronic level switch?
snip
What technology?

Capacitance, hydrostatic, and vibration are all possibilities, and all have
a down side.

Vibration would be my choice since it is not affected by conductivity or
lack of it.

Having said that, sloshing around will be a major problem. Level switches
like steady state conditions.

It's a bigger engineering problem than it's worth IMHO.

Having an automatic pump on an unattended boat can get VERY expensive.

As an example, spring a fuel leak and allow 10-20 gallons to drain into the
bilge, then pump it overboard while the vessel is unattended.

Need I say more?

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures