David,

I'm an electronics guy and the last thing I would want is dependance on
solid state devices to keep my boat afloat. Right now I don't have
switches at all because of failures. I operate the pumps maually. I
think anything electrical (that most of us are willing to pay for) in a
wet bulge is destined to premature failure. My solution will be to
build my own switch system with the electricals out of the bilge. I
thinking of using a plastic toilet tank float with a straight stainless
steel rod of maybe 2-3 feet. This will be mounted to a bulkhead
vertically by way of two screw eyes, really loose fit for freedom of
vertical movement. At the top end of the rod will be a microswitch with
sutable linkage that will close as the float rises. I might have a
second switch as an alarm circuit that would close if the float keeps
rising should the pump fail or be overwelmed. This will keep all of the
switch electrials far above the bilge. Anyone see anything I missed.

Regards, Ron

Ron Thornton ) writes:

I
thinking of using a plastic toilet tank float with a straight stainless
steel rod of maybe 2-3 feet.

a ping-pong ball inside a lenght of plastic pipe mounted vertically?
or a sealed length of plastic pipe set inside the vertical pipe?
either should foat up and trip a switch. the oringinal problem posted in
the thread was the need for a damper to keep the pump from getting turned
on and off frequently, I think. you cold weight a sealed pipe float so it
only rises when the water reaches a certaian level and then pumps the
bilge dry before shutting off.

as a cartop sailer I don't have bilge pump experince and could be off.

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"William R. Watt" wrote in message ...
Ron Thornton ) writes:

I
thinking of using a plastic toilet tank float with a straight stainless
steel rod of maybe 2-3 feet.

a ping-pong ball inside a lenght of plastic pipe mounted vertically?
or a sealed length of plastic pipe set inside the vertical pipe?
either should foat up and trip a switch.

The problem with either of these is that there are 2 components
moving relative to each other and in fairly close proximity to each
other which increases the possibility of something jamming. The
beauty of Ron's idea of just hanging a big plastic ball (i.e. toilet tank
float) from the top of the bilge is that it is very hard to imagine (at
least for me) how this mechanism could ever become jammed.

the oringinal problem posted in the thread was the need for a
damper to keep the pump from getting turned
on and off frequently, I think. you cold weight a sealed pipe float so it
only rises when the water reaches a certaian level and then pumps the
bilge dry before shutting off.

Personally, if I were going the route of using a toilet tank float
so as to lift all the electrics well clear of the water then I would
prefer to introduce the necessary damping into the system
electronically and site the electronics in the wheelhouse (assuming
an inside helmstation) where it is as protected as is possible.

- Julian.

William,

I chose the tank float because of the amount of buoyancy which will
definitely be enough to trip a microswitch directly. The mass of the
float and rod might give the delay effect you want but it would also
leave some water in the bilge, which is not a problem for me cause my
bilge is dry except when it rains (got'a seal those leaks) or I'm
underway with the shaft slightly dripping.

I have trouble getting my 14 ton sailboat on the cartop.

Regards, Ron

Julian,

Good compromise. Thanks

Regards, Ron

I can't get my boat on a cartop either - it's about 24 ft long. Being a
clinker ( carvel ) wooden boat, it's always going to make some water, which
will be salt. And if it's raining, the water will be fresh. If had much
more than 6" of water in the bilges it would be getting close to doing
serious damage. Sort of eliminates ping pong balls in 2ft tubes, 6" dunny
floats. If the Rule float switches were reliable, they would be the easiest
solution. So how do we get Rule to lift their game?
DF

"Ron Thornton" wrote in message
...
William,

I chose the tank float because of the amount of buoyancy which will
definitely be enough to trip a microswitch directly. The mass of the
float and rod might give the delay effect you want but it would also
leave some water in the bilge, which is not a problem for me cause my
bilge is dry except when it rains (got'a seal those leaks) or I'm
underway with the shaft slightly dripping.

I have trouble getting my 14 ton sailboat on the cartop.

Regards, Ron