On 2006-01-17, Terry K wrote:
Yer idle jet is clogged, and / or the choke isn't choking when cold.
Manual choke?

Clean out the idle jet, and try again. It is a tiny hole in the side of
the barrel of the carb, close to where the throttle butterfly edge
rests when closed, or in the idle position. Often, poking at it with a
toothpick is all it needs, or blowing out with air. I had a carb seal
itself off at the main jet intake, with a blister of gasoline varnish.
Popped it, and all was well. Had to take it apart to find it

The carb needs maintenance by a guy that knows carbs, a dying trade
now, with fuel injection being so much better.

Yeah I agree with this assessment, I had a Johnson 135 with very similar
symptoms, I tried to adjust if for hours. It would idle, or a little
more, but that was it. I took it to a shop, they cleaned up the carb
and it ran perfectly for years afterwards.


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Julien Mills Amoroso's Baking Company
IS Department Philadelphia, PA USA
215-471-4740

"Julien Mills" wrote in message
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On 2006-01-17, Terry K wrote:

Yeah I agree with this assessment, I had a Johnson 135 with very similar
symptoms, I tried to adjust if for hours. It would idle, or a little
more, but that was it. I took it to a shop, they cleaned up the carb
and it ran perfectly for years afterwards.



That... a good carb clean and I'd add looking at the rest of the fuel path.
I don't know if those little flapper things are on engines as big as 115 but
if they are gummed up, they'll play hell with things.

Ed

How complex is cleaning and rebuilding a carborator? I can handle a few
screws and what not, but if it's something thats easy to foul up, I
might do better trusting a professional. Also, how much should I expect
it to cost? My mechanic charges $77 an hour here but is highly
recommended. Whats the going rate in the south east (north carolina)?

I had a 90 Johnson that I let sit too long with fuel in the carb. I
took the carb apart (patience, digital photos of each step, and a good
handbook) and found "gummy worms" of jellied gas in each passageway of
the carb, particluarly the baseplate-like foundation of the carb body.
My boating life improved immediately.

Every time now I pick up a can of gasoline, I think Stabil fuel
stabilizer.

The carb is not magic, just a machine. Get good light, a big surface
with a towel over cardboard to catch minor spills and gunk. There are
some springs and small steel balls serving as needle valves in the
older one I worked on, and they jump if you don't move very slowly in
separating pieces.

The worst that can happen is that you screw it up and have to get help.
If you don't try, that's your starting position. I'd like to know how
it went.