Rick wrote:
mike worrall wrote:

How do I do this? That is, wat tool(s) would be used for removing the
plywood, leaving a clean cut of consistent depth?


A router.

A belt sander
A power plane
A block plane if you are a real masochist.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Or if your really brave, you could do this with a large course disk sander..
Takes some skill to control the big disk sanders.

The builders of my hull, Blue Water Boats did a nice neat job of it and I
believe it was done with a very large belt sanding machine. The chamfered
the 1" bulkheads back about a foot all around and that is how far their
hull/bulkhead attachment was carried on my 38 ft hull..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

I know nothing about router blades. Ignoring the possibility of a router
blade, you can get a consitent depth of recess by first scoring the area
to be recessed with a saw set to the depth of recess you want. Perhaps run
a hand held circular saw along a line parallel to the edge of the bulkhead
and then run a few cuts between this first cut and th edge. If the depth
to be removed is only 1/8" there will be no problem following a curved
line with a hand held circular saw set at that depth. Then take a power
sander and sand down until the saw cuts just disappear.

If working with plywood its pretty easy just to sand off the face ply. Its
obvious when you start sanding into the second ply. If the face ply is the
depth you want to remove, you're laughing my son.

--
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William R. Watt ) writes:

... If the depth
to be removed is only 1/8" there will be no problem following a curved
line with a hand held circular saw set at that depth.

I should have recommended using a rip fence on the hand held circular saw.
Mine cost about $10 Canadian and has been very handy. I still mark the
line to be cut so I can see if I'm cutting correctly, but the rip fence
helps a lot to steady the hand. You can set it first to 3" and go around
the edge, then set it to 2" and go around again, then to 1" and score the
surface again. The three cuts should be enough of a guide to get a
consistent recess with the sander.

--
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