Steve Lusardi wrote:

Who said
teak decks are slippery when wet? .

Maybe because they keep them "pretty" instead of letting them weather to
a nice and rough grey?

--
dadiOH
____________________________

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On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 12:55:52 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Maybe because they keep them "pretty" instead of letting them weather to
a nice and rough grey?

=============================

Exactly. Gray is good, that's what I tell people uncharitable enough
to comment on mine. :-)

There is nothing slipperier than wet cetol. Don't even think of
getting it near a deck.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 12:55:52 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Maybe because they keep them "pretty" instead of letting them weather to
a nice and rough grey?

=============================

Exactly. Gray is good, that's what I tell people uncharitable enough
to comment on mine. :-)

There is nothing slipperier than wet cetol. Don't even think of
getting it near a deck.


Decks are decks and you learn to appreciate the weathered look of teak,
especially if it keeps you upright and on board.The contrast between well
oiled teak in the proximity of weathered teak helps the deck rats realize
that your weathered teak deck is there out of design not sloth. What do you
use on non deck, but weather exposed teak ?

Cetol , in my opinion, does not bring out the natural luxurious appearance
of teak... but it does last longer than varnish.
Oils can be messy to apply and don't last on the surface very long. I have
been experimenting with a lanolin aerosol product that is easy to apply and
does last longer than 'teak oil' . It does fade in the sun but real quick
and easy to apply. It's called 'fluid film' and sold as a penetrating fluid
similar to WD40 but as it is primarily lanolin it doesn't evaporate like
WD40. After it soaks in, it isn't 'slippery'......but I would not want to
compromise my footing in a challenging moment when the winds are up. I do
use it on some runabout soles and dock trawlers.


....Ken

chayco wrote:
Decks are decks and you learn to appreciate the weathered look of teak,
especially if it keeps you upright and on board.

And when it doesn't, well, you stick tradition anyway


Cetol , in my opinion, does not bring out the natural luxurious appearance
of teak...

Agreed, although the new stuff looks better than the 'orange
jello'.


.... but it does last longer than varnish.

I'm not so sure. I've owned a number of boats with
brightwork, including some that were all wood, and one
spectacular Swedish beauty with varnished topsides (that was
a long time ago). Tried a number of 'varnish substitutes'
but none were any significant time saving, especially in the
South where everything gets heavy UV.

Our current boat has *way* more brightwork than I wanted,
but my wife promised to take care of it... she learned
varnish work pretty well, and up thru last spring kept it in
beautiful shape. You could read a newspaper in the
reflection in the caprail.


Oils can be messy to apply and don't last on the surface very long. I have
been experimenting with a lanolin aerosol product that is easy to apply and
does last longer than 'teak oil' . It does fade in the sun but real quick
and easy to apply. It's called 'fluid film' and sold as a penetrating fluid
similar to WD40 but as it is primarily lanolin it doesn't evaporate like
WD40. After it soaks in, it isn't 'slippery'......but I would not want to
compromise my footing in a challenging moment when the winds are up. I do
use it on some runabout soles and dock trawlers.


Sounds interesting, where do you get it?

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
chayco wrote:



Oils can be messy to apply and don't last on the surface very long. I
have
been experimenting with a lanolin aerosol product that is easy to apply
and
does last longer than 'teak oil' . It does fade in the sun but real
quick
and easy to apply. It's called 'fluid film' and sold as a penetrating
fluid
similar to WD40 but as it is primarily lanolin it doesn't evaporate like
WD40. After it soaks in, it isn't 'slippery'......but I would not want
to
compromise my footing in a challenging moment when the winds are up. I
do
use it on some runabout soles and dock trawlers.


Sounds interesting, where do you get it?

Fresh Breezes- Doug King


http://www.nlsproducts.ca/ff_e.html

...Ken

chayco wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 12:55:52 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Maybe because they keep them "pretty" instead of letting them
weather to a nice and rough grey?

=============================

Exactly. Gray is good, that's what I tell people uncharitable enough
to comment on mine. :-)

There is nothing slipperier than wet cetol. Don't even think of
getting it near a deck.


Decks are decks and you learn to appreciate the weathered look of
teak, especially if it keeps you upright and on board.The contrast
between well oiled teak in the proximity of weathered teak helps the
deck rats realize that your weathered teak deck is there out of
design not sloth. What do you use on non deck, but weather exposed
teak ?

It's been a long time since I've had *any* teak save the dashboard I
made a dozen years ago for my '73 Fiat Spyder.

When I had a sizeable sailboat I had considerable besides the deck but
it was "utility" teak...all the blocks (rope stropped) and their sheaves
were teak as were the belaying pin handles, pin rails and ratlines. I
made all and after doing so tossed them in a bucket of boiled linseed
oil for a day or two. Five years later they showed little weathering,
no grey; ten years later they were still in decent shape. Amazed the
hell out of me. Wasn't a pretty finish though...

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Agreed on the gray decks. I use Signature Finish's Honey Teak on my
non-deck exterior teak. A little hard to apply, but worth it in
appearance and longevity once on. All you have to do is put a coat or
two of clear on annually after roughing up the surface with a
Scotchbrite pad. See: http://www.fabulainc.com/