Need recommendations for seams in the new teak side decks. The candidates
with estimated material cost a
Boat-Life pourable two part polysulfide $496
DetCo pourable two part polysulfide ???
Maritime Wood Products one part silicone $605
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 ???
Teak Deck Company silicone $424

The silicones are prepacked in tubes or sausages which makes them a little
less messy.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

We used SIS 440 and it's OK but messy. I have 5 unopened
tubes I can send you, if you pay the shipping.

But why in the heck are you putting a teak deck on? Heavy,
hot, slippery... a high price to pay to impress the
crab-crusher mafia....

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
Need recommendations for seams in the new teak side decks. The candidates
with estimated material cost a
Boat-Life pourable two part polysulfide $496
DetCo pourable two part polysulfide ???
Maritime Wood Products one part silicone $605
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 ???
Teak Deck Company silicone $424

The silicones are prepacked in tubes or sausages which makes them a little
less messy.

"DSK" wrote in message
...
We used SIS 440 and it's OK but messy. I have 5 unopened tubes I can send
you, if you pay the shipping.

But why in the heck are you putting a teak deck on? Heavy, hot,
slippery... a high price to pay to impress the crab-crusher mafia....

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Well, when you have lived with a girl for 6 years you feel kinda obligated
to get her dressed up in the best finery before hauling her out in public.
:-)

I have to admit it is mainly esthetics. The side decks are the only
exterior wood and are really needed to tie into the solid cherry interior.
Right now with the white cabin top and cockpit the boat just looks to
plastic until you get below.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

But why in the heck are you putting a teak deck on? Heavy, hot,
slippery... a high price to pay to impress the crab-crusher mafia....


Glenn Ashmore wrote:
Well, when you have lived with a girl for 6 years you feel kinda obligated
to get her dressed up in the best finery before hauling her out in public.
:-)


Sure. That's why we kept our teak deck for almost 3 years.
It is pretty.

I have to admit it is mainly esthetics. The side decks are the only
exterior wood and are really needed to tie into the solid cherry interior.
Right now with the white cabin top and cockpit the boat just looks to
plastic until you get below.


That makes sense too, but wouldn't something like a nice
buff colored accent be better than adding wood?

I have always been a heretic about teak decks, considering
it one of the slipperiest "non-skid" surfaces available for
boat decks. I have been on many wet, heeling, heaving teak
decks that felt like I was wearing roller skates... although
I admit that many molded-in nonskid patterns on prodction
boat decks wear quickly and are ineffective. If you want
*good* nonskid that really keeps your feet under you, look
to industrial standards... just remember to not add quite so
much when putting on surfaces people will also be sitting on....

And I'm serious about sending the SIS 440. We don't need it
any more.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

"DSK" wrote in message
...
But why in the heck are you putting a teak deck on? Heavy, hot,
slippery... a high price to pay to impress the crab-crusher mafia....


Glenn Ashmore wrote:
Well, when you have lived with a girl for 6 years you feel kinda
obligated
to get her dressed up in the best finery before hauling her out in
public.
:-)


Sure. That's why we kept our teak deck for almost 3 years.
It is pretty.

I have to admit it is mainly esthetics. The side decks are the only
exterior wood and are really needed to tie into the solid cherry
interior.
Right now with the white cabin top and cockpit the boat just looks to
plastic until you get below.


That makes sense too, but wouldn't something like a nice
buff colored accent be better than adding wood?

I have always been a heretic about teak decks, considering
it one of the slipperiest "non-skid" surfaces available for
boat decks. I have been on many wet, heeling, heaving teak
decks that felt like I was wearing roller skates... although
I admit that many molded-in nonskid patterns on prodction
boat decks wear quickly and are ineffective. If you want
*good* nonskid that really keeps your feet under you, look
to industrial standards... just remember to not add quite so
much when putting on surfaces people will also be sitting on....

And I'm serious about sending the SIS 440. We don't need it
any more.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King


Ahh, I'm being pedantic......if you sand the teak deck first and then caulk
with your 'goo of choice' your caulking should set a masking tape thickness
'proud' of the deck, affording you with a wee bit more traction. Aye, and
that wee bit can make all the difference.

....Ken

chayco wrote:
Ahh, I'm being pedantic......

That should be OK, as long as it's between consenting
adults.


.... if you sand the teak deck first and then caulk
with your 'goo of choice' your caulking should set a masking tape thickness
'proud' of the deck, affording you with a wee bit more traction. Aye, and
that wee bit can make all the difference.

Part of my heresy is that I've believed since early in my
experience of teak decks, that the seam compound was the
major (if not the only) part of the teak providing any grip
whatever.

Why not just put strips of rubber compound on a fiberglass
deck, and paint it brown... um wait a minute, is this an
orthodox crowd? I don't want to get burnt at the stake...

DSK

There are some very good builders in these parts using the TDS SIS 440
product.
I've used it on a cockpit sole and liked it.
I used in the tubes and it applied cleanly. I didn't have the usual mess
where it ends up everywhere. Dunno why.
Sanding it off, you get easily handled crumbs. The finished surface of the
goo is acceptably smooth with few bubbles..


"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:VCVuf.1650$Dh.1089@dukeread04...
Need recommendations for seams in the new teak side decks. The candidates
with estimated material cost a
Boat-Life pourable two part polysulfide $496
DetCo pourable two part polysulfide ???
Maritime Wood Products one part silicone $605
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 ???
Teak Deck Company silicone $424

The silicones are prepacked in tubes or sausages which makes them a little
less messy.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
There are some very good builders in these parts using the TDS SIS 440
product.
I've used it on a cockpit sole and liked it.
I used in the tubes and it applied cleanly. I didn't have the usual mess
where it ends up everywhere. Dunno why.
Sanding it off, you get easily handled crumbs. The finished surface of
the
goo is acceptably smooth with few bubbles..


It's them damned bubbles you want to avoid. Sand first, mask the caulking
groove well, apply your goo of choice, and trowel smooth.
BUT.....pull off the masking tape quickly (minutes). If you leave it seconds
too long you will end up with your goo of choice coming off with the masking
tape in fine stringers. Real hard to repair.

...Ken

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:VCVuf.1650$Dh.1089@dukeread04...
Need recommendations for seams in the new teak side decks. The candidates
with estimated material cost a
Boat-Life pourable two part polysulfide $496
DetCo pourable two part polysulfide ???
Maritime Wood Products one part silicone $605
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 ???
Teak Deck Company silicone $424

The silicones are prepacked in tubes or sausages which makes them a little
less messy.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com



I would use a polyurethane like Sikaflex 290 DC, it has high UV light
resistance, easy to sand and elastic enough to adhere and expand.
Teak decking systems product is also a polyurethane, I believe. An
established teak deck installer I know uses Teak Decking System product for
their decking projects.

My advice, reardless of the caulking product you choose, is to finish sand
your decks first and then caulk.

...Ken / island-teak.com

Ken,
Why do you sand first? I never do. I fill fat (that's push fill not pull.
Pull creates the bubbles and concave seams) with Sikaflex 290 and sand
flush. The mess is inevitable, but never an issue if you sand last. I end up
using more caulk, but a lot less labor, no bubbles and no concave seams. Who
said teak decks are cheap. You must tape the bottom of the seam, before you
caulk or you get peel separation under thermal expansion and contraction.
Also, you must clean and prime first. From a personal point of view,
Silicones have no place on a boat period. The stuff seems to go everywhere
and then nothing sticks to anything. You want grief, use silicone. Who said
teak decks are slippery when wet? Only a wet rug maybe better than raw
unfinished teak and a proper boat shoe.
Steve

"chayco" wrote in message
news:ya_uf.21557$tl.19048@pd7tw3no...



"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:VCVuf.1650$Dh.1089@dukeread04...
Need recommendations for seams in the new teak side decks. The
candidates
with estimated material cost a
Boat-Life pourable two part polysulfide $496
DetCo pourable two part polysulfide ???
Maritime Wood Products one part silicone $605
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 ???
Teak Deck Company silicone $424

The silicones are prepacked in tubes or sausages which makes them a
little
less messy.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com



I would use a polyurethane like Sikaflex 290 DC, it has high UV light
resistance, easy to sand and elastic enough to adhere and expand.
Teak decking systems product is also a polyurethane, I believe. An
established teak deck installer I know uses Teak Decking System product
for
their decking projects.

My advice, reardless of the caulking product you choose, is to finish sand
your decks first and then caulk.

...Ken / island-teak.com