Ken,
Why do you sand first? I never do. I fill fat (that's push fill not pull.
Pull creates the bubbles and concave seams) with Sikaflex 290 and sand
flush. The mess is inevitable, but never an issue if you sand last. I end up
using more caulk, but a lot less labor, no bubbles and no concave seams. Who
said teak decks are cheap. You must tape the bottom of the seam, before you
caulk or you get peel separation under thermal expansion and contraction.
Also, you must clean and prime first. From a personal point of view,
Silicones have no place on a boat period. The stuff seems to go everywhere
and then nothing sticks to anything. You want grief, use silicone. Who said
teak decks are slippery when wet? Only a wet rug maybe better than raw
unfinished teak and a proper boat shoe.
Steve

"chayco" wrote in message
news:ya_uf.21557$tl.19048@pd7tw3no...



"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:VCVuf.1650$Dh.1089@dukeread04...
Need recommendations for seams in the new teak side decks. The
candidates
with estimated material cost a
Boat-Life pourable two part polysulfide $496
DetCo pourable two part polysulfide ???
Maritime Wood Products one part silicone $605
Teak Decking Systems SIS 440 ???
Teak Deck Company silicone $424

The silicones are prepacked in tubes or sausages which makes them a
little
less messy.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com



I would use a polyurethane like Sikaflex 290 DC, it has high UV light
resistance, easy to sand and elastic enough to adhere and expand.
Teak decking systems product is also a polyurethane, I believe. An
established teak deck installer I know uses Teak Decking System product
for
their decking projects.

My advice, reardless of the caulking product you choose, is to finish sand
your decks first and then caulk.

...Ken / island-teak.com