Hi there!
Does anybody know how to install a porthole that is designed for 1/4
inch (6 mm) thick fiberglass in a steel hull that consists of 1/8 inch
(3 mm) sheet metal on the outside, welded to 3 inch (75 mm) angle iron
and 5/8 inch (16 mm) wainscoating. Total thickness roughly 4 inches
(100 mm). Any advice (preferably with drawings or links to websites)
very welcome. Thanks in advance-Przem

This is a common when you try to apply the wrong solution to a problem. The
application you describe requires a flanged portlight with a lip. The lip
sets into the welded tube and is sealed with polysulfide rubber caulking.
The flange is designed to bolt to the welded tube flange trapping the inside
hull liner between the portlight and tube. This is the traditional way
portlights are fastened to steel hulls. Additionally, these portlights use
armored glass and are also equipped with deadlights on the common hinges for
safety and they are usually bronze. Unfortunately, they are also expensive.
I use the same type. I had mine custom cast by Davies in London. No, they
don't have a Website. Depending on size, they will cost from $500 to $1,000
each. Normally, you pick the portlight, then weld up the matching tubes to
suit. If this has already been done, it was probably done to fit an
available portlight. I would ask the previous owner where to find it.
Steve

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi there!
Does anybody know how to install a porthole that is designed for 1/4
inch (6 mm) thick fiberglass in a steel hull that consists of 1/8 inch
(3 mm) sheet metal on the outside, welded to 3 inch (75 mm) angle iron
and 5/8 inch (16 mm) wainscoating. Total thickness roughly 4 inches
(100 mm). Any advice (preferably with drawings or links to websites)
very welcome. Thanks in advance-Przem

Steve, thank you very much for response. My portlights are from bronze
and are already cast (in Hungary, 750 euro per 12 pcs, but glazing and
polishing is on my side). I am thinking of installing them in outer
sheet metal sealing them with sikaflex and weld a bit oversized tube of
steel to the inside , long enough to pass through the thickness of the
hull. This solution seems it will work, however being in the boat one
will have a porthole in 4 inches deep well. Thanks once again-Przem

That is the correct method. It makes a very nice and clean installation You
got a super deal at 750 Euros for 12. How large are they? I have 13, 8" x
16". I paid 5,000 pounds sterling 15 years ago, but they came glazed,
polished and with deadlights.
Steve


wrote in message
oups.com...
Steve, thank you very much for response. My portlights are from bronze
and are already cast (in Hungary, 750 euro per 12 pcs, but glazing and
polishing is on my side). I am thinking of installing them in outer
sheet metal sealing them with sikaflex and weld a bit oversized tube of
steel to the inside , long enough to pass through the thickness of the
hull. This solution seems it will work, however being in the boat one
will have a porthole in 4 inches deep well. Thanks once again-Przem

Steve, mine are 8'' X 16'', no deadlights. First I had to make a
hardwood model, then the casters in Hungary made an aluminum version of
it (more durable than wooden one in case one wants to cast more than
one or two) and using simple sand form cast 12 pieces. They were very
rough and with my basic tools (angle grinder and 12'' disc sander) in
took nearly a day to finish just one. Having Dremel would speed things
up. In general terms, finding stuff in chandlers' catalogues very
expensive I try to make my own wherever possible. Recently I made all
light fixtures, both ceiling and bulkhead ones, employing LEDs and
halogen bulbs. They are mainly from wood, since I have all necessary
woodworking tools and abilities. Przem