I am restoring a 15 foot speed boat of maybe 50s vintage.
It has a ply deck that looks like a laid deck and it has rotted.
I am replacing the ply decls but am not sure how the markings were done
to imitate a laid deck.
The grooves seem to be about 2 mm deep and about 2 mm wide and are black
in color.
Can any one assist a novice on how to do a ply deck that looks like a
laid deck ?
Graham A

graham wrote:
I am restoring a 15 foot speed boat of maybe 50s vintage.
It has a ply deck that looks like a laid deck and it has rotted.
I am replacing the ply decls but am not sure how the markings were
done to imitate a laid deck.
The grooves seem to be about 2 mm deep and about 2 mm wide and are
black in color.
Can any one assist a novice on how to do a ply deck that looks like a
laid deck ?

Buy the special ply made like that.



--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Bm8uf.1384$A64.1028@trnddc07...
graham wrote:
I am restoring a 15 foot speed boat of maybe 50s vintage.
It has a ply deck that looks like a laid deck and it has rotted.
I am replacing the ply decls but am not sure how the markings were
done to imitate a laid deck.
The grooves seem to be about 2 mm deep and about 2 mm wide and are
black in color.
Can any one assist a novice on how to do a ply deck that looks like a
laid deck ?

Buy the special ply made like that.

--
dadiOH

Is that supposed to be helpful, or snobbish? It isn't very helpful. Where
would you get it? Instead of little snippish quips, a real answer with at
least one source would be a lot more helpful.

http://www.worldpanel.com/Marineplywoods.htm (bottom of page)
http://www.marine-plywood.us/teak.htm

I found them doing a Yahoo search with: marine plywood decking

Ed

Ed Edelenbos wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Bm8uf.1384$A64.1028@trnddc07...
graham wrote:
I am restoring a 15 foot speed boat of maybe 50s vintage.
It has a ply deck that looks like a laid deck and it has rotted.
I am replacing the ply decls but am not sure how the markings were
done to imitate a laid deck.
The grooves seem to be about 2 mm deep and about 2 mm wide and are
black in color.
Can any one assist a novice on how to do a ply deck that looks like
a laid deck ?

Buy the special ply made like that.

--
dadiOH

Is that supposed to be helpful, or snobbish? It isn't very helpful.
Where would you get it? Instead of little snippish quips, a real
answer with at least one source would be a lot more helpful.

No, it was meant to be neither snobbish nor snippish. It was meant to
acquaint him with the fact that such a product exists. He can Google
(or Yahoo) for sources as well as I can.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

If you want to do the job in one sheet of plywood, the grooves would be cut
with a router. For small grooved like 2mm x 2mm, a small laminate trimmer
would be the ideal tool. Practice a lot at techniques for guiding the tool
before doing the big sheets.
After grooving the ply and securing it to the boat, the panel and its
grooves should be very carefully sealed. I'd recommend WEST epoxy with
their 207 hardener. Warm the ply thoroughly so the epoxy will run and
penetrate all the cut plywood edges. Don't let puddles accumulate in the
grooves. Clean them out with a dry paintbrush or a rag on a putty knife.
Reduce the heat so the epoxy won't out-gas. As the epoxy gels, keep an eye
on it for puddles.
Mask the edges of the grooves and fill the grooves with tinted epoxy or a
polysulfide sealant such as 3M 101 or Life-Calk. Don't use a polyurethane
or silicone sealant . Sand flush and varnish.
Another way to do these decks involves bonding veneer 'planks' to a plywood
substrate. THis is well documented in the Gougeon Brothers book. or on the
WEST Syetem website

"graham" wrote in message
news:1136183897.855581@teuthos...
I am restoring a 15 foot speed boat of maybe 50s vintage.
It has a ply deck that looks like a laid deck and it has rotted.
I am replacing the ply decls but am not sure how the markings were done
to imitate a laid deck.
The grooves seem to be about 2 mm deep and about 2 mm wide and are black
in color.
Can any one assist a novice on how to do a ply deck that looks like a
laid deck ?
Graham A

Hi
No doubt you use Jim's suggestion, that's the way.

But before you get a router please learn the basic when using it ---
the basic are that when moveing the routher forverts youtr "land" are
supposed to be on the left side of it, --- that's if you run the router
along a plank then it must be on your left side moving the router
forverts.
If you use the build in paralell land and move the router "forverts"
that's away from you, then that land offcaurse must be resting on the
edge at the left of the router.
You see a router tend to move to the left when you move it away from
you caused by the rotation of the bit ,it sort of draw the router to
one side, and if you don't know this then you often ruin your materials
----- on the other hand this is what any profesional know, the router
stay in place if you have the land on the right side but go wild into
the wood when you try move it the opposite way whare that motion can
not be stopped by the land --- sorry this is the best my limited
knowleage of english allow me to advise on this, but it's the most
important thing about hand held routers ; you don't hold them by hand
but place the land on the right side and move the router in the right
direction compared to that.

Hi
Sorry I said ;

"If you use the build in paralell land and move the router "forverts"
that's away from you, then that land offcaurse must be resting on the
edge at the left of the router. "

Wrong running a router with the build in land ,making strips , you
place the build in land on the right side offcaurse, as the router tend
to mill it's way left mooving it forverts --- so a plank to keep the
router in place must be on the right side and if you use the build in
land it's on the right side moving the router forverts -------

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi
No doubt you use Jim's suggestion, that's the way.

But before you get a router please learn the basic when using it ---
the basic are that when moveing the routher forverts youtr "land" are
supposed to be on the left side of it, --- that's if you run the router
along a plank then it must be on your left side moving the router
forverts.
If you use the build in paralell land and move the router "forverts"
that's away from you, then that land offcaurse must be resting on the
edge at the left of the router.
You see a router tend to move to the left when you move it away from
you caused by the rotation of the bit ,it sort of draw the router to
one side, and if you don't know this then you often ruin your materials
----- on the other hand this is what any profesional know, the router
stay in place if you have the land on the right side but go wild into
the wood when you try move it the opposite way whare that motion can
not be stopped by the land --- sorry this is the best my limited
knowleage of english allow me to advise on this, but it's the most
important thing about hand held routers ; you don't hold them by hand
but place the land on the right side and move the router in the right
direction compared to that.


I guess it depends on the size of the piece. If it were small enough (4'x4'
at a time) I would probably just use a table saw. If using a router for a
larger piece, a simple guide bar clamped on for each pass would do it.

Ed

Right but there are in general two kinds of circular saw, one that cut
as a row of chissels -- the one to use -- and one made to cut wood
across the grains -- the one not to use.
Ther are offcaurse combinations but the even with a wide tooth in hard
metal you maby only make a notch of 2 millimeter , then it is nicer
with the router as with that you just put a small piece in btween or
adjust so the notch get the right size.

Ed Edelenbos wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi
No doubt you use Jim's suggestion, that's the way.

But before you get a router please learn the basic when using it ---
the basic are that when moveing the routher forverts youtr "land" are
supposed to be on the left side of it, --- that's if you run the
router along a plank then it must be on your left side moving the
router forverts.
If you use the build in paralell land and move the router "forverts"
that's away from you, then that land offcaurse must be resting on the
edge at the left of the router.
You see a router tend to move to the left when you move it away from
you caused by the rotation of the bit ,it sort of draw the router to
one side, and if you don't know this then you often ruin your
materials ----- on the other hand this is what any profesional know,
the router stay in place if you have the land on the right side but
go wild into the wood when you try move it the opposite way whare
that motion can not be stopped by the land --- sorry this is the
best my limited knowleage of english allow me to advise on this, but
it's the most important thing about hand held routers ; you don't
hold them by hand but place the land on the right side and move the
router in the right direction compared to that.


I guess it depends on the size of the piece. If it were small enough
(4'x4' at a time) I would probably just use a table saw. If using a
router for a larger piece, a simple guide bar clamped on for each
pass would do it.

Personally, I would use neither a saw nor router. Trying to fill
grooves in plywood so they look decent without sanding could be an
exercise in frustration. Even if the "seams" were taped. And there
isn't near enough meat in ply face veneer to do any worthwhile sanding.

Use ply "as is", buy ply with the phony seams or use solid wood and
caulk. But if you do try it (or use solid wood) use the polysulfide
that Conlin suggested. Ditto the epoxy on cut edges.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico